TRs 99-2000

1/1/99 thru the 1/3/99 Pinns Andrew

  1. 5.6 Reg Route on Elephant rock OSNF
  2. mousetrap 10a TRNF
  3. 1 bolt placed on Le Petit Mort then Andrew got on Son of Dawn Wall
  4. Rat Race 5.7 TRNF
  5. 3 bolt line left of Rat Race 5.8
  6. Angstroms Away 10 TRNF
  7. Lost Horizons 5.8 OSNF
  8. Entrance 5.7 LNF
  9. Nailbox crack 5.8 OSNF
  10. Jorgies crack ?
  11. ordeal ?
  12. stupendous man ?

Yosemite 1/8 and 1/9 1999

  1. Book End 5.9R TRNF RPs for pro down low, a little runout
  2. Work around the skirt 10c TRNF shitty bolts at the time, but moderately well protected
  3. West Side Story 10b TRNF run to first bolt, so so after that
  4. Winter of our discontent 10c/d TR 1 fall disintegrating edges on run out route.

1/30/99 Pinns

  1. chimney 95' FA - i followed on arete to left NF
  2. [edit - 40' corner that Stom lead and I followed. #1 camalot clean compared to above route]
  3. lightning bolt crack 5.8+ TRNF Dennis tried Holmgren route above 3 bolts and replaced
  4. 4th class backside route 5.8 solo
  5. Sock Hop route solo'd by Dennis in his socks

2/6/99 Pinns with Mark Abbott

  1. Don't bolt it, they won't come 5.4 face to crack to face OSNF
  2. McBiscuit curving hand fist to finger bulge in a groove pro to 4" couple at that size
  3. Knobfuscation TR face to right of McBiscuit 5.10 TRNF 2 anchor bolts on to right of pine tree

2/14/99 Pinns with chica

  1. Portent LNF
  2. Reg Route Mono 1st pitch LNF
  3. NE Corner route 5.7 OSNF piton hanger with star dryv bolt

2/16/99 Pinns solo trip

  1. Dismemberment Gorge 5.4 solo
  2. Pillbox crack solo
  3. Carousel 5.0- 5.9 solo
  4. Mushroom Cloud 5.8 solo boulder problem
  5. Fallout 5.8 solo boulder problem
  6. Pipsqueak Pinnacle Regular Route 5.5 solo

2/20/99 Pinns solo trip

  1. Nodal Line solo attempt backed off
  2. Love Handles back side route 3rd class
  3. Cortadura Wall - backside routes and several obvious boulder problems

3/12/99 Pinns with DES Cortadura Wall

  1. seam ramp to break to chimney/crack 10a thin gear off the ledge. DES OSNF
  2. seams to left started up
  3. Carpet Cleaner 5.3 solo in water chute separating formations climb on exposed knobs on carpet of moss.

5/22 thru 31 1999 Michael J. and Lake Wong

  1. Beckeys Wall 5.7 1 hang 3 pitches. driving thru night 4am arrival from CA tired me.
  2. bouldering at Flagstaff mtn, Boulder, CO
  3. East Slab 5.5 Boulder Canyon
  4. Cozy Hang 5.7 funny downclimb
  5. bouldering Mt. Sanitas
  6. First Flatiron Direct E. Face 5.6 10 pitches excellent, can downclimb backside.

6/6/99 mt Diablo with Michael J

  1. Ozone 5.10 TR 5 falls
  2. Amazing Face 5.9 OSNF

6/13/99 Potters Rock Michael J and chica (Brad, Steve and Laura D)

  1. Kut Korner 5.6 LNF
  2. Edgin 10b TR 1 fall
  3. Potters Wheel 5.7 OSNF
  4. Short but skinny 10b LNF
  5. Pull my Finger 12a 8' worth - doable with effort

6/20/99 Grotto Michael J and Brandt

  1. Sidesaddle 5.9 LNF
  2. AC Devil Dog 10c TR 2 fall
  3. Bandito 5.8 TRNF
  4. Table manner var. 5.10 TR 1 fall
  5. Dwarf Toss 12a worked bolt to bolt

6/29/1999 Potters Rock and So So slab

  1. Bar Exam 5.9 7 bolts 1 sling FA
  2. 60 meter must 4 bolts set on this eventual FA

8/3/99 Pinnacles Toogs with chica

  1. Toogs Gallery 5.7 4 pitches got dehydrated but good climb

8/19/99 and 8/20 PLSW with Lake W.

  1. FTR of what would be 'know justice, no peace'
  2. added another lead bolt to 60 meter must
  3. 5.9 route at Donnell Vista

found what would later be Legoland

Sept. Labor Day Weekend Lover's Leap

  1. Travellers Buttress Andrew aided ow with 2 points of aid, otherwise great Dike Hiking

10/2 Tuolumne Meadows Mike Bannon and Noah

  1. South Crack 5.8 in 3 pitches with 60m some simul
  2. Golfer's Route 5.7 takes aliens and several size cams. quintessential tuolumne knobs

Met up with Gus and Allison and Rob for Gus's bday.

10/9/99 and 10/10 Owens River Gorge

  1. Mile high crack 8 LNF
  2. Wowie Zowie 10a R LNF (small gear for pocket not visible)
  3. Big Screen 10b OSNF
  4. Brief Intermission 10a 1 fall
  5. Dirt pile 5.8 OSNF apropos name
  6. Mad Cat 10b L 4 falls
  7. bob and eric crack 10a TRNF
  8. grey scale 10a L 1 fall
  9. brief intermission 10a LNF
  10. shell of a man 10b LNF
  11. one holer 10a TRNF
  12. Valley 5.8 10b L 4 falls

10/24 thru 10/26 1999 Yosemite and Sonora Gus and Sean R.

  1. Positively 4th street with 'Brown Sugar' extension 5.9 and 10a TRNF
  2. bouldering at catherdral boulders
  3. oak tree, bay tree 5.6 solo
  4. hanging flake route 5.6 solo
  5. bouldering cathedral boulders
  6. know justice, no peace 5.8 TRNF
  7. ramp left of above 5.9 TRNF
  8. worked and cleaned hung jury 10b thought at time
  9. The Brief 5.5 solo FA
  10. The Baby Bar 5.5 solo FFA to bar up seam to small pine left of oak

11/7/99 PLSW

  1. Know Justice, No Peace 5.8 FFA
  2. Dave Hardin lead on aid the overhanging roof on So So, and hope followed clean on TR
  3. 6 more bolts on 60 meter must.

11/14/99 PLSW

  1. Plea Bargain FTR after bolting it can use a #3 camalot and med size cam to lead it.
  2. Bench Trial solo
  3. TR project to be known as "hung jury" thought to be 10d maybe 11a this week. heh

found some new areas 7/10 mile past Potters. see journal notes for more info. also, up and left uphill from Potters. big section of rock north facing tho with moss. and then also, immediately after bridge past potters. cracks later done by Brutus of Wyde and Em.

12/19/99 Pinns Disco, Mono and Cortadura

  1. The Wet Kiss 5.9 TRNF
  2. Richnaks Revenge 11 TR 3 falls
  3. Post Partem Depression aka Baby Blues 11c TRNF on 2nd try
  4. Armed Madness 10d FA Erik Strom, Matt Eastman and Rob B. - blue tcu, red alien, purple tcu, #3 lowe ball, orange TCU tho questionable, green alien, #4 camalot, #3 camalot in this order.

12/27/99 Pinns with Brad and Brinton

  1. Outcast NE Rib 5.7R OSNF
  2. Outcast Back Alley Driver 5.8TRNF

Brad lead Strom's mank piece of shit route Rock Naked. slings many nuts 5.8ish

12/29/99 Pinns with Brad and Brinton

Condor Condom Condiment 5.8 lowe tri cams essential, tcus, wires and camalots 1, 2, 3. good route. 4-5 bad bolts that need replacing.

1/29/2000 Pinns

  1. Direct on Mono 5.6 TRNF
  2. POD 10d TR 2 falls
  3. Portent 5.6 TR and solo combo
  4. The Wet Kiss 5.9 LNF
  5. The big pucker 10d TR 2 falls
  6. The Cleft 5.6 OSNF
  7. Lithium 11a.b work first moves only, toe slot is key, good day with a little rain near the end

3/11/00 Pinns with Brad and chica

  1. Side Saddle 5.7 OSNF
  2. Cross Your Heart 10c TRNF 1st try
  3. God is Gravity 10d TRNF several tries to get tho
  4. Feed the Beast 11b.c TR many falls

03/16/00 Red Rocks, etc. with Matt E. and Erik

  1. Frictiony Face, Panty Waste 5.8 OSNF
  2. Plastic People 5.10b OSNF
  3. Synthetic Society 11a fall of some kind, can't read my journal
  4. Solar Slab Gully to...
  5. Solar Slab 5.6 link 3 and 4 with 60m nothing larger than 3 or 3.5
  6. Playing Hooky LNF
  7. Doctors Orders 10b TRNF
  8. See Dick Fly 10d 3 tries leading top to bottom
  9. Cat Walk 10a OSNF
  10. life's a bitch 10b TR 1F
  11. Thong 5.7 OSNF
  12. Butt Floss 10 TRNF
  13. Cover my buttress 5.6 solo
  14. Scanty Panty 5.5 solo
  15. silk panties 5.7 OSNF
  16. new 5.8 at time OSNF
  17. new 5.8 at time OSNF
  18. Panty Line 10- R OSNF gear
  19. Panty Raid 10 OSNF gear

Josh same trip (TNF hoody haw with Tim and Paula Richards and a funny bunch of climbers)

  1. Deflowered 5.6 OSNF
  2. Tennis Shoe Crack 5.8 TRNF
  3. 10a/b TRNF to chains
  4. Fun Stuff 5.8 OSNF
  5. Echo Buttress 10b TRNF
  6. Raging Intensity OSNF
  7. Almost Vertical 5.7 OSNF
  8. Ain't Nothing but a Jtree thang 5.6 solo
  9. Jerry Brown attempt 10b back off
  10. Cough up phlem 5.7 OSNF
  11. Cpatian Kronos 5.7 OSNF
  12. Pinched Rib 10b OSNF
  13. Ulysses Bivouac 5.8 solo
  14. Business Trip 5.4 solo
  15. North Overhang 5.9 OSNF
  16. Mama Woolsey 10a R LNF after a TR
  17. Big Moe 11a TRNF
  18. Deceptive Corner 5.7 OSNF
  19. Boulder Dash 5.9 LNF
  20. Tranquility 5.6 LNF
  21. 3rd times the charm 10b OSNF
  22. Knaug and Hyde 5.3 solo
  23. White Trash 5.8 solo
  24. Squat Rockets 5.4 solo
  1. Happy Boulders Serenghetti, Hand to Hand, Cilley, Slow Dance areas
  2. Welcome to the Gorge 5.9 TRNF
  3. Pulp Friction 10c 3 falls
  4. Valley 5.8 10b LNF
  5. LA is Burning 5.9 3 falls
  6. bouldered Buttermilks at Parking Lot rocks
  7. later bouldered at Mazzones, Led Zeppelin...

4/8/00 Fissures with Joel Ager

  1. Luminous Flesh Giants 11b TR few falls at crux below and at anchors
  2. High Resolution 11d 4-5 falls TR
  3. Funny Man 12a many falls

Sonora trip solo 2000

  1. bouldered Critter Cave at Vulcanoes FBAs
  2. bouldered Shady Rock at Vulcanoes FBAs aka Hammerhead

5/20/2000 Sonora Sean and Jocelyn, Brad and Strom.

  1. 5.6 Cut Corner LNF
  2. Ma Bone 5.8 OSNF
  3. 10b 3 bolt TR TRNF
  4. Slap a hoe 11d TRNF
  5. bouldering at Critter Cave at Vulcanoes - low start to Scorpion and easy up and left moves

5/21 cont'd from above trip

  1. 5.7 Flutterbee 5.7 RB
  2. V3 Caterpillar upper SR
  3. V2+ Scorpion RB
  4. La Blanca Lena proj V4+?
  5. V1 The Worm SR
  6. V1 Critter Cling RB
  7. V3 Sonora Express RB most of
  8. Roadside Detraction V0- faces away from road below grade on left side facing it start in depression
  9. Roadside Detraction V0
  10. Shady Rock V0- on left
  11. 5.9 on right
  12. V0- traverse left to right
  13. 5.9 arete on left
  14. 5.9 traverse right to left to tree
  15. 5.8 easy up
  16. 5.9 hammerhead

6/10/00 Sonora (what would be later known as Legoland) with Andrew W.

  1. Inknobvious 5.8+ LFC to dike to knobby finger crack. take lower of two right trending cracks to corner. up then move right.
  2. Morpheus 5.8 boulder move, to ramp, across and up to large roof. 4.5 camalot to protect roof mantle move.
  3. Trinity 5.9 hand crack to roof, turn it on left side to join upper part of Inknobvious.

8/13/2000 Legoland and Graveyard

  1. Scratchin the Itch 5.9 or 10a ow to roof crack/fist.
  2. Reservoir Dogs 10b/c corner and flake. Strom used tree to left leaning dihedral 2nd pitch 11b aided last moves. I didn't follow 2nd pitch. Turns out this was Dead and Buried done by another team from what I understand. extra 3 and 4" for first pitch. small gear for 2nd pitch.

8/19/00 Tuolumne Meadows with Matt E.

  1. Crying Time Again 5.9 OSNF slings, pro to 2 cam at most. small aliens helpful.
  2. Needle Spoon 10a L 1 fall and backed off. blood spatter really bad, wigged out. learned of bad crater later on.

8/22/00 Sonora Frankensteins with David S, Brad

  1. Bermuda Triangle 10b brad lead 1st pitch. I lead second pitch off.
  2. Root Canal 5.9 OSNF

8/23/00 Tuolumne with David S

  1. West Crack 5.9 stellar! wide gear useful to #4 200' of fingers possible

9/7 and 9/8 Sonora

  1. Frankensteins jugging with Andrew and Kristian
  2. Gold Wall A1 first pitch aborted rest. Came down with Wall Avoidance Syndrome offsets good, 2 fixed heads lowe ball needed some free climbing. 2nd pitch is wide. skip belay bolts in middle of pitch.

9/19 and 9/20 Bishop, White Mtn., Cardinal Pinnacle

  1. Reg Route 5.6 3 200' pitches Rapped route.
  2. White Mtn. Reg Route got sicka at 13k and went back nasty shits b/c of spicy prawns from night before.

9/30 and 10/1 Tuolumne solo and David S and chica

  1. So Low Venture 5.7 x FRA? Rob B. OSNF solo
  2. Left Water Streak 5.7 R OSNF
  3. Werner's Wiggle 5.8 R TRNF
  4. West Country Var. 5.7 OSNF new bolted line

10/15/00 Pinns David S. Doug L. and chica

  1. Swallow Crack 5.6 TRNF
  2. Fly Bye 5.9 OSNF #3.5 camalot, loose block at roof.
  3. The Wet Kiss 5.9 TRNF
  4. Portent 5.6 solo
  5. Rat Race 5.7 TRNF, possilbe to TR left of Rat Race

Oct. Pinnacles

  1. Thrill Hammer 5.8 TRNF
  2. No Holds Barred 10a L 1 fall

11/4/00 Pinnacles with Doug L.

  1. Limp at Last 5.9 TRNF
  2. Behr-ens of Sanity OSLNF FRA? prob TR previously
  3. Sun Wheel 11a TRNF
  4. Pearl Sheath var. 5.8? X OSNF skip last two clips on Pearl Sheath staying on right side of arete, Pearl Sheath route it contrived. this is "La Lena Mas Natural"
  5. The Gag 10c TR 1 fall 1/4" bolts at time
  6. Steve's Folly 5.8 kneebar at crux, tough moves.

CRSP 11/5/00 Shady wall and Waterfall Wall Doug L and chica

  1. Waterfall Wall 5.8 OSNF
  2. Slot Nose 5.8 LNF
  3. Special Effects 10a OSNF
  4. Dog Breath 10a OSNF
  5. Small Man Complex OSNF 10d is contrived
  6. Cotton Mouth 10a OSNF
  7. Tall Man Simplex 10c LNF

11/12/00 Pinnacles Doug L.

  1. Rat Race 5.7 TRNF
  2. Rat Race Roof 5.11 TR
  3. Heffalump 5.6 OSNF
  4. Lost Horizons 5.6 OSNF
  5. Mammary Pump 11b TRNF twice

11/18/2000 Pinnacles with Doug L - got hassled at front gate for not stopping and showing pass even though I put it on dash and they know my car and I'm the only one there at 7am. almost got ticket for speeding trying to race out by designated and required time.

  1. Lava Falls first pitch blue tri cam, long slings, draws. L 1 hang and back off
  2. Echoes 5.8 OSNF hidden bolt between boulders. 30' and 15' above that
  3. Kibble and Bits 5.9 TRNF
  4. Rebecca's Sailing 5.9 LNF good line

11/19/00 Pinns Doug L

  1. Pillbox 5.5 TRNF stemming and chimney make it 5.5
  2. racing Stripes 10a L and back off
  3. Portent to double anchor solo
  4. Labor of Love 11a TR 2 tries without success

11/23/00 Pinns Andrew and Yen W. and chica

  1. Jorgies Crack TRNF 10a
  2. Ordeal TRNF 8
  3. Holiday Ordeal 10b TRNF FA? direct start done later

12/16/00 Pinns Brad and David S

  1. Herchel-Berchell 10c R but only first few pitches for me. heady first pitch.

12/27/00 thru 12/31/00 Josh chica and Andrew

  1. Poodle Lizard 5.7 solo os
  2. Komodo Dragon 5.6R os solo
  3. Lizard Taylor 5.5R os solo
  4. Lizard Robbins 5.5 os solo
  5. Left Lizard Crack 10d attempted solo
  1. Alligator Lizard 5.9 TRNFOS
  2. wally Gator 5.11 TRNF
  3. Lizard Skin 5.8 OSTRNF
  4. Chicken Lizard 10b OSTRNF
  5. Right Lizard Crack 5.9 OSTRNF
  6. Left Lizard Crack 10d R TR several falls
  1. Super Roof 5.9 TRNF
  2. Tennis Shoe Crack 5.8 LNF
  3. Chile Willie 5.7 OSNF
  4. Bolivian Freeze Job 5.9 OSNF
  5. Born in a Barn var. 5.9 OSNF
  6. Born in a Barn 10a TR
  7. Born in a Barn 10a LNF
  8. Bard Door Right 10a TR
  9. Barn Door Right 10a LNF
  1. Blue Sky, Black Death 5.5 OSNF
  2. Mr. Michael Goes to WA 5.8 OSNF
  3. new route 2 bolts 10a OSNF
  4. Swiss Cheese 5.6 OSsolo
  5. Swiss Cheese var 4 bolts OSNF
  6. Why does it hurt when I pee 10b dogged lead to top
  7. same as above 10b TRNF
  8. Bolivian Freeze Job 5.9 TRNF
  1. Tabby Litter 5.8 OSNF
  2. Church Bazaar weak attempt 10c.d
  3. Traverse to base of Geronimo
  4. Geronimo 5.7 TRNF
  5. NW Chimney 5.2 os solo
  6. Beginners One 5.5 OS solo
  7. Beginners Two 5.2 os solo
  8. A walk on the beach 5.4 solo

summary perfect leads 3 10a, 2 5.9, etc

lead or TR 1 11, 4 10s 4-5 9s etc.