TRs thru 1998

83, 84 and maybe 85 Joshua Tree Tim K. and Wes K. (believed first time ever)(all done in tennis shoes)

climbs that stood out in my memory...

1. ~5.2/3 crack on Clump SE facing (many hangs and whimperings) (first climb)
2. ~5.4 solo attempt to chimney (believed to be called "Finally" on the Clump)(same trip as above)
3. 5.3 Toe Jam Express - crack on Short Wall, TR. (many hangs and whimperings)(done several times over several years)
4. 5.6 SOB - crack on Short Wall, TR (many hangs and much swearing)(done several times over several years)

later found out my uncle bob climbed

1986 Summer Camp

1. ~5.3 TR crack above Huntington Lake on small crag on south shore
2. ~5.2 TR crack above Huntington Lake on small crag on south shore

1986 Suicide Rock 86 (Jr. High Graduation present)

1. Serpentine 5.8 first pitch only - followed uncle bob using his old Boreal aid boots for friction climbing
2. 1986 Rubidoux (Jr. High Graduation present)
3. The Jam Crack 5.3- that I ended up laybacking TR
4. Triple Crack Left 5.6- arm jamming on TR

1987 Suicide and Tahquitz -

8/24/87 East Lark 5.7 uncle bob lead - retreat after a few pitches.

8/25/87

1. Mickey Mantle 5.8 TR (not sure how the rope got up there)
2. Serpentine 5.8 first pitch, got dark, uncle bob lead

8/26/2007

1. Serpentine 5.8 first pitch, uncle bob backed off 2nd pitch
2. Commencement first pitch solo 5.6?
3. Rt of Commencement but left of Clam Chowder TR 5.10 (unknown if hangs)
4. Hernia 5.8 TR following uncle bob

8/27/2007

1. The Plague 5.7 crack TR uncle bob lead (5.8 rated nowadays)
2. Arcy Farcy 10c only climbed 10b parts on TR
3. The Spatula 5.9 TR (10a rating nowadays)

8/28/2007

1. Arcy Farcy Direct TR 10c ( attempt- didn't work it very long, Bob asked the guy if I could run a TR on it. I didn't want to impose myself too long on it. These guys were good climbers. Shoes essentially melted the edge.
2. Nawab 5.7 TR first pitch
3. unknown TR between Nawab and Spatula TR believed to be about 5.7/8.
4. Traverse to and downclimb gully rated believed to be "East Buttress Gully" 5.6

Nov.25 1987 weekendJoshua Tree

1. Toe Jam Express 5.3 crack TR
2. Steady Breeze 5.7 face TR (first set up of my own TR anchors)
3. Tight Shoes 5.7 face TR (my own TR anchors)
4. Step n Out 5.10 TR unknown style, crack finger jams, stem, hug both cracks, crux was switch over to right leaning upper part.
5. The Mikado 5.6 crack TR (my own TR anchors)
6. Princess 5.7 crack TR (my own TR anchors) layback start

6/17/88 Minnesota, Taylors Falls

1. Mel and Tom 5.7 traverse uncle lead
2. The other one direct 5.7 face uncle lead
3. Piece of cake 5.7 finger crack uncle lead

6/18/88 Blue Mounds State Park

6/19/88 Devils Tower - TAD 5.7 first pitch lead by uncle bob, cleaned by Bob Shinn and finished by me. 2nd pitch lead by Bob Shinn, cleaned by me and finish by bob. Not enough upper arm strength. from my journal "leaned but I didn't finish using stemming and sorta chimney with a pack. I think my body is still recovering. signed at top and rapped off 3 or 4 times to get to bottom."

6/21/88 Devils Tower Rangers are People Too 5.9- uncle bob lead, his first 5.9 lead. used Durrance approach. beautiful weather, little windy. We all ran a TR.

6/22/88 Black Hills Needles, SD

1. 5.3/4 chimney solo'd and 4th classed some other stuf.
2. Tent Peg 5.7 follow'd uncle. scratchy rock, stay below traverse use hands. rap from bolts and slings. signed in on top. only space for 2 on top.

6/27/88 -

North Shore, MN

Palisade Head

1. Blue Bells 5.9 TR from above. left leaning crack, hardcore jamming, easy roof, bomber hold, watch the bleay station, hard on the legs.
2. Danger High Voltage 5.8 TR climb series of ledges to a crazy ow swithc over to a hand crack. fun climb.
3. 4th class descent down to base of cliffs, easier to rap.

Shovel Point

1. Dance of the Sugarplump fairies
   1. Inside crack 5.7, I downclimbed
   2. middle face 5.9 -straight up the middle over a little bump, edging and friction holds.
2. Cornered 5.9- mostly 5.7 with a fist jam crack at bottom. hard crack easy roof with big flake holds. good fun climb.

July 4th weekend - Got inspired after last trip and went to Lake Perris, Big Rock- some 5th class solo. Next day did a traverse around base of cliff. 5.0 to 5.10 moves.

Starting in this year 1988 got inspired to check out my local 'hunks' of rock. They included

1. Heart Park - regularly attempted to do what Jean Fradette could do in cowboy boots. traverse on concrete retaining wall.
2. Mt. Blassie - only checked out, maybe worth a rope, i thought at the time.
3. Speed Limite Boulder - again at the time I thought mabye it might be worth a rope, but never tried.
4. White Rock- same situation
5. Ortega Highway - The falls. At the time i thought it was good rock worth a rope. Went with Tagge Viter and Jack Wygal. Tried 3 5.7 routes on TR.
6. Orange Boulders - TR'd with Art Grecco and Tagge Viter and Mircha Gruia

Fall 1988 Joshua Tree with Tagge, Jack, and Mircha

1. Silent Scream TR 5.10a TR hang dogged a little
2. Willit Slab 5.5 First Lead ever. bolts
3. Donna T's Route 5.5 solo
4. Var of Gotcha Bush - 5.7 TR

1. Morning Warm Up 5.9 TR
2. Step n Out 10a TR
3. Plain but good hearted 5.6 - Jack Wygal lead, I cleaned.
4. Sweat Band 10c TR "Fully Bitchen" i wrote about this climb ahhhahaha
5. 5.6/7 friction face I lead. Bolted no name. possibly what is now known as Jailhouse rock.

Jan. 1989 - Big Rock, Lake Perris

1. The Trough 5.5 150' solo'd up, but last 10 feet Jack someone dropped a rope to me.
2. Frontal Lobotomy TR 10a
3. Mind Bender 5.9+ I lead. Bitchen lead. No fall, no rests.
4. Puppy Dog 5.6- free solo used to up TR for above Frontal Lobotomy

Jan 1989 - Mt. Rubidoux, Riverside

1. The Jamcrack 5.4 free solo'd.
2. Triple crack left 5.7 free solo

March 1989 Blackstar boulder - 3 mile hike up blackstar road. good sized sandstone boulder. 5.7 problem, 5.8 problem, attempted a 10 and 11 problems with no luck. Tom, Bill's friend and H. ? Tuttle.

3/19/89 Buttermilks

Y-Boulder 5.8 lead. Tim cleaned.

Iris Slab - Rock Creek 5.7 var. and a 5.8 TR

Benton Crags - Wheatena 5.7 I lead, Tim cleaned. TR on or around backside of Junk Food rock 5.8. Bouldered on Locals Only Rock - traverse bottom ~5.10.

April 5th, 6th and 7th? of 1989

1. Donna T's Route 5.5 solo
2. Double Crack 5.3 solo
3. Morning Warm Up 5.9 TR
4. 5.8 around corner from Red Beckey BB buttress area (follow)
5. Sweat Band 5.10c*** hung once TR
6. Goodbye Mr. Bond 5.10c lead and rope drag. backed off.

1989 Around this time Tim, myself and Louie Anderson developed glue ups under several concrete over passes. One of which was at Hart Park using ceramic holds that Tim fired in a ceramics class at school.

5/20/89 Climbing Competition at Sport Chalet - elimination route 10a flash on TR, semi final 5.11d wrong hand start 3rd or 4th hold only got feet 4 ft off the ground, then fell.

June 1989 - Suicide Rock

1. Serpentine 5.9** 3 pitches I lead.
2. Mickey Mantel 5.8 *** I lead.

Sept. 1989 with Charlie B.

1. The Trough 5.5 1st pitch, travesed 5.7, Left Flake 5.6 as second pitch
2. The Roof 5.9 I lead. fun climb

October 20-22, 1989 - Tim, Charlie B, & Gary Yoshikawa and Matt Ruttledge

1. SOB 5.6 TR
2. Up to Heaven 5.8 TR
3. Toe Jam Express solo
4. Date Queen Corridor crack attempt only TR

1. Silent Scream 10a TR
2. Vainos Lost in Pot 5.7 solo
3. Wandering Winnebago as aborted attempt on Direct SW face of Moosedog
4. Plain but good hearted 5.6 lead

1. Duchess Right 5.7 TR ow
2. var of Castrum TR aka Monaco, i believe
3. Marchesa 5.2 solo to set a belay
4. Crank Queenie 5.8 TR
5. face climb on BB buttress 5.8 I lead. aka Driving Limitations

1. Morning Warm Up 5.9 TR
2. Right V Crack 10a TR
3. Step n out 10a TR
4. unknown 5.6 behind group site #8, roof start finishes smaller of two cracks. Gary lead set up TR.

11/22/89 - Buttermilks bouldering - green face, etc

11/23/89 - Tahoe Eagle Creek Canyon

1. Rentier 5.7 I lead, Tim cleaned
2. Ripoff 5.10 TR Tim's first ten with dogging
3. Holdless Horror 5.6 TR

12/8 and 9/89 Indian Cove with Tim K

1. bouldering first day
2. Plain but good hearted 5.6 solo
3. Knaug and Hyde 5.3 solo on BB buttress
4. Right V Crack 10a 1 fall
5. FA left of Alpentine - 5.4 approx poor pro up thru pockets to right slanting ramp.
6. FTR left of Illegal Campfire called "Feet keep on slippin" on clean brown rock - 10a/b (thought it needed 2 bolts back then) possible 2 pitch line by using face below)[definitely later a friend did a route up the face below this one]
7. attempt 5.11 bolted line across from BB buttress. friction on smooth buckets. aka Vertical Corrector

12/89 Big Rock, Lake Perris

1. 5.9 first pitch i lead
2. 5.10a 2nd pitch i lead
3. 10 TR
4. 10 TR
5. 10 TR
6. 9 TR

February 1990 Joshua Tree (with folks from REI - last name Kim, or Sterling?

1. SW Corner Headstone rock 5.6
2. S. Face center TR 5.9
3. Cryptic 5.8
4. Walk on the Wild Side 5.7+
5. Attempted lead on Cheap Way to Die 10d

February 1990 Mt Rubidoux

1. Jamcrack 5.2
2. Smooth Role Right 5.10+ TR

3/15/90 Joshua Tree Echo Rock with Matt R.

1. 5.6 Eff Four follow
2. 5.9 Stick to What 5.10 var lead
3. 5.6 Double Dip lead
4. 5.7 Buissionier TR
5. 10b Papa Woolsey lead
6. 5.6 SW corner headstone unknown style
7. 5.8 cryptic TR

3/24/90 Joshua Tree

1. 5.6 crack near White Tank and bouldering near Sheep Pass group site.

Around same time lead 2 climbs on the 57 freeway 5.9 and 10b

April 10-12, 1990 Joshua Tree with Tim K

1. Silent Scream 10a I lead
2. Direct SW face 5.9 TR moosedog tower
3. Tranquility 5.6 solo
4. We dive at dawn 5.7 Tim lead
5. Sweatband 10c I lead to 4th bolt
6. face route across from BB Butt. 5.8 aka Oh god, it's my boss.
7. Feet Keep on Slippin 10a/b TR next to Illegal Campfire

5.5.90 Suicide Rock

1. The Fiend 5.9 Gary Y lead
2. The Shadow 5.8 R #5 stopper
3. Nawab 5.8 TR first pitch
4. Serpentine first pitch 5.8

Mt. Woodson with Jeff for some TR'ing on cracks (another REI orange store employee)

1. Robbins Crack 5.10- (aid up, then TR is how we got up)
2. Baby Robbins 5.9+
3. Jaws 5.10+
4. Black Fingers 5.10-

July 27 thru Aug 3 or 4th 1990 Bishop and Tahoe with Tim Tumbleson

Owens River Gorge

1. Gorgeous 10a 8 bolts and #2 TCU

Lover's Leap

1. Bouldering at Lover's Leap - learned about "Lord of the Rings"

1. The Line 5.9 pro to 2.5 many stoppers swapped leads, I got first and 3rd
2. first pitch of Traveller's Buttress 5.8 ow Tim lead I think, can't remember, could be me as I remember being scared.
3. Corrugation Corner 5.7 swapped leads
4. Labor of Love 10a bolts I lead

Ninety Foot Wall

1. Fallout 5.9 (10?) TR
2. lost in space 11a (first 11 TR, on second try)
3. Relativity to Bustille 5.10ish
4. lightning bolt 10b cool line (met George owner of Gad gym)
5. Casual observer 5.1 solo chimney

Donner Summit

1. Bolt Run 10d TR after failed lead
2. Eyes of Silver 10c TR?
3. Middle Ages 5.8 solo
4. Penguin Lust 12c attempt (met JB Tribout and Didier Raboutou, Bobbi Bensman, etc)
5. lead 10b face left of Penguin lust 6 bolts
6. Farewell to Arms 10b crack Chris from NY lead and I cleaned
7. bouldering by school rock
8. Gold Dust 10d TR
9. Goldilocks 10d TR
10. Mama Bear 11a TR
11. Hot Shit 10b TR
12. Baby Bear 10a TR

9-20 and 21-1990 (with Jeff and Mike from REI employees)

1. Clean and Jerk 10c TR
2. Hobbit Roof 10b TR
3. SW corner of Headstone 5.6 Jeff lead
4. Room to Shroom 5.9 I lead

9-31-90 Mt. Rubidoux

1. Scoop Face 5.7 and variations
2. sack relag 5.9
3. unisloper 11b/c hangdogged

10/7/90 Mt. Rubidoux Black Block

1. 11b Black Block face TR flashed (first?)
2. Blockhead 10d crac TR
3. Third pitch of Astroman 10c roof exit to right

11/21/90 Joshua Tree with Charles Patwell

1. Lazy Day 5.7 lead
2. Exorcist 10a lead sm. fall yo yo
3. Sail Away 5.8 charles lead, 20' fall, i lead to wrap up

11.22.90 and 11.23.90

1. 5.10c redpoint in Indian Cove (?)
2. 10a TR on shitty rock behind campsite 39
3. Sweatband TR 10c- failed lead
4. Goodbye Mr. Bond TR 10c
5. Tarawassie Wiggle TR 10b i believe also done at this time

12/26-30th 1990 Joshua Tree with D and J

1. Linda's Face 5.7 TR
2. Plain but good hearted 5.6
3. La Reina attempt
4. Willit Slab 5.4 TR (J's first lead)
5. 5.8 face on BB butt
6. Bitch in Heat 5.9
7. 10b Dos Equis Wall TR
8. 10 Dos Equis Wall TR
9. 11d var attempted TR
10. Silent Scream 10a
11. Rhythm of the Heart 5.8
12. Face route up to base of "Feet Keep on Slippin"
13. bouldering in HVC

1-15-91 Joshua Tree

1. Loose Lady 10b Jeff Auldridge lead
2. TR Bikini wall 12a attempt, very failed.
3. Fisticuffs 10b attempt lead, needed more gear of that size.
4. Run for your life 10b I lead
5. Double Cross 5.7 I lead, i think

Jan 91

1. Super Roof 5.9 unknown style, probably lead
2. bouldering

Feb 91 - Mckinley Street boulder with Kelsey 5.10 TR

Feb 15-18th 1991 Owens River Gorge and Whitney Portal Ice with folks from REI

1. Solo easy crack for TR at Owens
2. TR unknown 11 or 12 hung dog lots

4-7-1991 Mt Rubidoux

1. Smooth Sole Direct 11a TR
2. Water chute 8/9 TR
3. Variation 5.10 TR
4. The Eye 11b/c TR

4/30/91 Joshua Tree

1. No Calculators Allowed 10a TR
2. Congratulations 11a TR
3. Childs Play 10d TR
4. Sail Away 5.8 + i lead 1 rope rap off back
5. Sphincter Quits 5.9+ TR
6. Face between "What's it to you" and "Ride a wild bago" 11d or 12a?

6/25/91 thru 7/4/91 Suicide and Josh with uncle bob

1. Serpentine 3 pitches small pro ok for first pitch i lead
2. Hesitation 10a first pitch chimney by bob, 2nd pitch easy, 3rd bring slings for knobs
3. Sundance 10b traverse crux 2 falls, 2nd pitch 5.9+ var, sketch but best route.
4. Flower of High Rank 5.9 not sure who lead, but i've lead this one at some pt.

1. walk on the wild side 5.8
2. SW corner of headstone 5.6 bob lead
3. Congratulations 11a TR
4. Child's Play 10d TR

1. Revelation 10a .75 camalot needed
2. Whodunit 5.9- 7 pitches (start first pitch belay high, use roofs and move left. direct is scary)
3. Spooky Spike 5.9 bob lead, traverse to Etude
4. Etude 11a TR

8-18-91 backcountry climbs

1. 5.6 solo FA, then TR
2. 5.8 crack "No bolts about it"

9/6/91 thru 9/9/91 Owens River Gorge

1. Range of Light 10b Chris Marr lead
2. China Doll 5.8 TR
3. Heart of the Sun 5.9 lead
4. child of light 5.9 lead
5. sendero luminoso 10b lead
6. Gorgeous 10a follow
7. Pippy the Zenhead 10a Janet lead
8. C'mon Knucko 11b TR 4 falls
9. The Aretical 11a lead, with 1 fall i think
10. PG-13 5.9 chris lead
11. Boating Prohibited 10a i lead
12. batting cage 10c chris lead
13. warning sings 10d chris lead
14. Red circle with a slash 10c I lead

9/22/91 weekend Owens River Gorge (see guidebook for more info)

Oct 91 Williamson Rock

1. 5.10 Chris lead Chris lead
2. 10+ i lead
3. 5.9+ or 10- i lead waterfall area
4. 10+ TR
5. 11 TR right of previous

Oct 91 Mt. Rubidoux

1. The Eye TR
2. Unisloper TR

10-27-91 Cyndie and Charlie

1. TR 5.3 brown face b/wn Dos Equis and The Tooth
2. 5.9+ 10a crack with small bush

11/13 thru 17th 1991

1. Willit Slab 5.4 w/Kelsey
2. Eyes of Amber
3. Tranquility
4. Direct SW face
5. Palmreader 5.8
6. Madame Salami 11a TR
7. Mystic Teflon 10c

late 91 and thru 92 not too much info in journal

Fall, er Autumn 92 -

Owens River Gorge - Nappy, Lisa, Aaron Nigren. Check guidebook for climbs.

Tuolumne Meadows 1st time? - Jason Gunderson and Rob from Idaho (East Cottage Dome)

Royal Arches 1st time in 92, and only time, as of 1/2007 with Doug B. much simul climb, free'd the traverse. no rotten log. did the raps.

So Face Column (with Doug B) and Half Dome (with Doug B and Nappy)

Late Nov 1992 Yosemite Valley

1. Sherries Crack 10c LNF OS
2. Knob Job 10b TR
3. Reeds Pinnacle Direct 9+ 1 fall (wet)

Other Trips with Jason and Doug included

1. Nine Lives 11b TR 1 fall
2. 1st part of Blackheads (10a to anchor for Nine Lives 1 rest)
3. Trough of Justice 10b OSNF
4. Skin Heads 10d 2 falls
5. Desperado 11d Jason lead with 1 fall, I followed with 1 fall at crux
6. The Flake 10b TRNFOS
7. Var to Chango Cabrones 11b TRNF

With Jason and Rob from Idaho

1. Catchy 10d 1 fall
2. Catchy Corner 11a TRNF
3. Cookie Center 9+ TRNF
4. Waverly Wafer 10c TR couple hangs getting out of pod
5. Wheat Thin 10c 1 fall

Yose with D, J, and Jason

1. Lunatic Fringe 10 TRNF (D and J and Jason)
2. i think we got on Stone Groove the same trip

Yose with D, J and Brad

1. Poker Face 10b (didn't finish) I attempted lead.
2. Texas Chainsaw Massacre 11a 3 falls brad lead, I cleaned

Yose Falls Amphitheatre with D, J, Brad, Chuck Giodorno and Ray Reghetti

1. Guiding Light 10a LNF first pitch
2. Blackout 10c TRNF
3. Lingering Lie 10d TRNF
4. Blackballed 10b 2 falls

Yose Brad, Tom B and Ray R

1. Reeds Direct with 20' fall and then lead thru. (to top of 2nd pitch)

Dec. 1992 Joshua Tree w/Nappy

1. Bonanza 10b OSNF
2. Proj to right of Bonanza 10b to bolt, harder above (Chris lead, i think)
3. Exfoliation Confrontation 9+ Chris lead, TRNF
4. Wild Wild West 10d Chris Lead, TRNF
5. Hang em High 10a OSNF
6. Bourbon on Ice 10d OSNF
7. Sawdust and Peanut shells 10a OSNF
8. Started project - "2 Nappys, pair of knuckoheads, and a couple of buds" first bolt with Chris.

next 1 day only with D, J, Ernie and Howard

1. Silent but Deadly 11b I lead with several falls
2. Goodbye Mr. Bond 10c LN

1-4-93 Pinnacles

1. Rat Race 5.7 TRNF doug lead
2. Thrill Hammer 5.8+ OSNF
3. Portent 5.6 OSNF
4. The Wet Kiss TRNF doug lead
5. Ordeal 5.8 OSNF
6. Monolith Reg Route 5.8 OSNF
7. Feed the Beast 11b TRNF

1/8 and 1/9 1993 Joshua Tree

1. La Reina 5.9+ LNF
2. Scaramouch 5.2 solo
3. Pet or Meat 10d TRNF
4. Coyote in the Bushes 10 OSNF
5. Sawdust and Peanut Shells 10a TRNF
6. Lion Tamer 5.8 TRNF
7. Placed 2nd bolt on project "2 nappys..." using flat leeper hook
8. Val De Mello 10b OSNF

1/23/93 Pinnacles

1. Photographer's Delight 5.2 OSNF
2. Flatiron Regular Route 5.9 OSNF
3. Silent Running 10a OSNF
4. Sponge Dir NW Face 5.6 TRNF
5. Burgundy Dome Rap Route 5.7 OSNF

1/27/93 Pinnacles

1. Stupendous Man 10 TRNF
2. Pistol Whipped 10d OSNF
3. Monolith Direct 5.6 TRNF
4. Limp at Last 5.9 OSNF
5. Mr. Hugh G. Rection 5.8 OSNF
6. Auto Cream aka Sunwheel 11a i lead with 1 or 2 falls
7. Ali baba 10b TRNF
8. Coyote Ugly 5.9 OSNF
9. Backside Route Tiburcios 4th class solo
10. Rocket in my Pocket attempt 10d/11a? backed off

2/12/93 Bouldered Pirates Cove on chiseled route with Nappy and Nigren (bouldered here several times in the past)

2/23/93 Yosemite Valley

1. Aided with pins on Le Conte Memorial Boulder backside
2. Aided bolt ladder Le Conte Memorial Boulder, and jumared

3/6/93 Yose

1. started project on slab below Dog Dik Cliff 10d to 3rd bolt

first time in life climbing every weekend thx to D and J

3/21/93 Pinnacles

1. The Unmentionable 5.7
2. Lost Fortune 5.9 to Burton's Below finish
3. Reg Route var 2
4. 4 bolt 5.7/8 with 1 bolt anchor???
5. Burton's Below 5.8+ 3rd Ascent I lead NF

4/9/93 Joshua Tree

1. project done 3rd bolt placed, Chris lead thru with falls, I followed on TRNF 10d?

4/18/93 Yose

1. La Cosita rt. side 5.9 1 fall
2. Placed the 3rd bolt on Dog Dik slab this day.

5/3/93 Yose

1. Pink Pussycat A1 many baby angles, TCUs, low balls, few LAs and 2 KB med.
2. Short but Thick 11b TR several falls

5/21 thru 5/24 Prow, Washington's Column

This is from 1993 hope the flavor comes thru. Staccato mind thoughts and profoundness.

May 22
At base of Prow
Went to Dead Show last night. Got f'd up. Met Belen. Great Time. Thx D & J.
I fixed first pitch. 2 parties of 3 above us. hope no ones shittin.
2 guys going to do SF Column
Hope moms good. Intense wall. Julias fine. Gotta get her home with me. Trippy call from dad. Bizarre. Bizarre.
Make vocal recording of impressions.

May 23
morning on portaledge, had to clean in dark last night. 3 pitches to go. Drank Fosters. Very thirsty in day
hungry, thinking about Belen from show.
Found penny stuck in crack on ledge.
the rock is beautiful, sweeping waves of granite.

May 24
afternoon
finished day off by 3 or 4 pitches. very thirsty
north dome gully very long, got down in dark
home by 1:00am.


------------------------------

journal entry on same events copied to be more legible for later reading included these thoughts...

21st
dead show - unbelievable...

22nd
still a little hazy went to base of column...
slept at base bivy, bad mosquitos

23
woke up early, got pissed on by party on anchorage ledge. party above was slow
they offered for us to jug their lines and pass. we did. good aid climbing
desire to get off wall, but only way off for myself was up. got to 6th pitch and was running on endorphins
i did 6th pitch in little over an hour. then strange dihedral pretty quick. doug did 8th pitch, i cleaned in the dark left one biner and sling behind. slept on porta ledge after drinking fosters and can of corn. very thirsty day very tired. found penny in rock, left it for next. rock beautiful sweeping orange waves of granite.

24
3 pitches to go, or so I thought. very thirsty. finished early evening... drank half bottle of heineken... I drove back smelled like dog piss. totally exhausted. oh, on hike out found campground drank much good cold water.

more personal notes- having major doubts about doing dihedral in one month. talk to me later...looking forward to when I come back. Maybe get Julia to climb with us.


LOL what a woose!!! hope it resonates or scares ya. hahahaha

June 1993 - Malibu Creek

1. Johnny Can't Lead 10d LNF
2. Kathmandu 10 LNF
3. Skeezer Pleezer 11b 1 fall

Jamboree Wall - bouldering traverse overhanging - 3 moves past dinner plate

6/28 thru 6/30 1993 Tuolumne Meadows and Owens River Gorge

1. South Crack 5.8 R six pitches
2. Knobulator 10c NF

1. Double Take 9 OSNF
2. Clip Jockeys 9 OSNF
3. Dellinger 10c OSNF
4. Expressway 11a 1 fall
5. Expressway 11a TRNF

Deadman's Summit bouldering, Aeolian Buttes

(first time to Sonora for climbing)

"Sonora Pass
1. Solo Layback flake 5.9 -then TR again
2. TR - crack to right mostly fingers no falls 5.10
3. TR - Arete 5.11- 5.10+ killer movement"

7/20/93 Suicide

1. The Hernia 5.8+ Chris lead,
2. Nawab 5.9+ 3 bolt face Chris lead
3. Ten Karat Gold 10 I lead first pitch, Chris lead second "Beautiful"
4. 5.7 pitch to Bowl (for...
5. Razor's Edge 5.8+ Thin wafer, all pulling down in a downward direction "sweet, delicate and scary

Cathedral Peak with Brad? 6-8 pitches didn't get Eichorn b/c got stuck behind ladies on chimney.

Tuolumne Meadows -Western Front

1. Green Eggs and Ham 5.9+ TRNF Doug lead
2. March of Dimes 10a OSNF
3. New Tricks for Old Dogs 10a TRNF Brad lead
4. Touch of Grey 10a LNF after doug lead also
5. Ace in the Hole 10a LNF
6. Deadhead's Delight 5.9 OSNF, as did Doug and Brad

East Side of Lembert

1. Streakin 5.9 TRNF doug lead
2. Time Warp 5.9 OSNF
3. Integration 5.9 Brad lead TRNF
4. Where the action is Brad lead TRNF

Lover's Leap

1. Surrealistic Pillar Direct 10a I lead, beauty climb, cold wet rainy
2. The Groove 5.7 I lead, Lowell, Brad's cousin 2nd
3. Black Opal 10c TRNF
4. bouldered and did pretty well

10/16/93 The Grotto

1. 5.9
2. 12a or b aka Grotto Monkey or Dwarf Toss "first lead of a 12" (don't recall the lead being clean, but leading bolt to bolt)
3. 12 a worked to cold shuts

10/17/93 Yose rainy day

1. A3 doug nailed, that I cleaned
2. Left side of La Cosita 5.7 Lake Wong followed
3. Pine Line 5.7 LNF

11/7/93 The Grotto

1. 5.9 Side Saddle LNF
2. High Intensity Discharge 12a (first 12a pink point)
3. Grotto Monkey worked to anchors 12a

11/21/93 Pinns

1. Lifeline 10a brad lead, TRNF for me
2. Reg Route 5.4 R I lead
3. back of the hand 5.6 i lead 2nd pitch
4. Salathe Wilts Bolt var. 5.7 Brad lead first, I lead 2nd

12/26/93 Joshua Tree

1. Klettervernugen 5.9
2. 29 Bombs 11a 1 or 2 falls

1. Kundalini Linguini Weenie 5.8
2. Illegal Campfire 5.7
3. Feet Keep on Slippin 10a TR 2 times
4. Toxic Poodle 10b
5. Toxic Avenger 10a 1 fall

1/1/1994 Joshua Tree

1. Snake Eye Pillar 5.7 with Lake
2. TR face left of Snake Eye pillar 5.9-10a FA potential
3. TR face above waterfall and to the right 5.9/10a

Twisted ankle next day.

1/16/94 Apple Valley with Gary Yoshikawa junction of 18 and Bear Valley Rd.

1. 5.8 hand crack
2. 10a roof to face
3. 5.8 face

3/28/94 bouldering Knights Ferry

4/3/94 Grotto

1. Wing of Bat 10 LNF
2. Dwarf Toss 12a many falls
3. Grotto Monkey 12a 2 rests
4. AC Devil Dog 10+ LNF
5. To Aim or not to be" 11- (10b)? TRNF
6. Bandito 5.8 solo

Grotto

1. 11a
2. 10b
3. 5.9
4. 5.8

Yosemite

1. 1st two pitches of Central Pillar of Frenzy
2. 10a bolt face TR
3. Munginella 5.6
4. 11c worked on Chapel Wall

6/26/94 Jailhouse with Howard L.

1. 12b worked it 2 times, good day but tired.

July 1994 Mt. Conness North Ridge touch of alt sick

July 1994 Jailhouse 12b 5 bolts and other possible 12b worked

Moved to SJ August

Day one in bay area with Rob Chang - Indian Rock

1. 5.8 lead
2. 5.10 TR
3. 11d 1 fall TR
4. 10a 1 fall
5. 10c
6. 10a

2nd day on rock August Billie Goat Rock

1. 5.9+ bolt route
2. 11 2 falls Permanent Erection
3. 12 boulder problem

3rd day on rock Guadalupe Rock (with Chang?)

1. 5.4 free solo
2. 5.6-8 bolt route TR
3. 5.9 crack TR
4. 5.10 face left of bolted 11

4th day 8/23/94 (mike from REI?)

1. 10a lead Worm Belly
2. 10d lead Bolt Filcher
3. unknown 5.8
4. Rectalphobiac 11b

8/21/94 Underworld with J

1. Poop Shoot 10d
2. Balance Sheet 5.9 with 11a finish
3. Hair Dresser 5.9
4. Thoth 10a lead
5. Anubis 10c 1 fall
6. Cerberus 10
7. SET 11b attempt, not finished
8. Drug Lord 10c lead

8/24/94 Mazzones bouldering, twisted ankle, first major injury while climbing, off for weeks+

Sept 94 with Walter

1. 5.11 route TR no falls
2. solod 5.4
3. solod 5.8
4. solod 5.10

10/1/94 David, Chau Marie, J, Bela and Susan

1. bouldering CR
2. TR Aeronautical engineer, missed exit move for clean go. pressure to move on.
3. Hairdresser 5.9
4. Gestapo Priest with cheat
5. TR 11a, but later got redpoint
6. Ironing Board 5.9

Gym in between trips a litte

1/28 and 29 1995 Ice climbing Lee Vining and June

1. Two TRs w and w/o tool
2. 5 roped lines bulges and steep, last climb was a 3.5' wide piller for 15' WI 3+ if the rest of day was WI2-3. blue green and plastic, near end of afternoon some flows were decomposing a bit

2/5/95 Pinnacles

1. Swallow Crack 5.6 OSNF
2. Pweeter 11a 3rd bolt, but backed off
3. 10a, 9+ route 15' right of of Men at Work OSNF
4. Men at Work 11a/b TRNF
5. Foreplay 11a/b TRNF
6. Buzzard Bait 5.9+ R TRNF

2/11/95 Pinns

1. Passion Play 5.7 OSNF
2. The Shepherd 5.4 A1 TRNF with A0
3. The Lamb 5.0 solo
4. Hummingbird Spire West Face 5.7 OSNF
5. Buckwheats Bender 5.7R OSNF
6. Chockstone Dome Reg Route 5.3 solo
7. Laizze Faire 5.6R OSNF
8. Toog's Trailside 10a OSNF
9. Powerslave 5.9 brad lead wet, TRNF
10. Sombrero 5.8 solo

2/12/95 Pinns

1. Desperado Chuteout 5.9+R
2. Cleaver Buttress 5.7
3. Derringer 5.5-5.7R

2/26/95 Pinns

1. Jorgies Crack 10a OSNF
2. Jorgies Crack cont. 10c TRNF
3. Cosmos 11b TRNF
4. Spaceman Spiff 5.9 OSNF
5. Mammary Pump 11b OSNF
6. The Roof 10a to anchors TRNF

3/28/95 Pinns w/Allison

1. Backside of Tiburcios 4th class solo
2. Teaching Rock 5.4 and 5.8 TR
3. First Sister Center Route 5.4
4. First Sister Left Route 5.5

4/19/95 Handley Rock

1. 10+ TR
2. 11+ alleged 12 doubt it, several laps and made the redpoint
3. 5.8+ crack

May much bouldering at gym

6/1/1995 Jailhouse 12 route all moves workable, just need to link in one shot for redpoint.

Red Boulder Problem 5.12 at gym 3 weeks on and off. sent. (possibly first true 12 problem i've done in one shot, but gym doesn't count)

June 1995 Indian Rock and Castle Rock - 3 trips, Jacob, Mike K and Bela

1. short route 5.9 (with Bela)
2. up sandy crack 5.9?
3. up 5.7 ramp

1. 5.10 circles route (with Jacob)
2. 5.11 circles
3. dysmal abyssmal 5.11 worked
4. donkey dong 5.11 less worked

1. Dysmal Abyssmal 5.11 1 fall (with Mike)
2. Donkey Dong 5.11 3 times 1 fall
3. Prow? 5.12 1 fall 2 tries

7/4/95 Tuolumne

1. Great Circle 10a OSNF
2. Liberation 10c TRNF
3. Inspiration 10c TRNF
4. Honeymoon's Over 5.8 OSNF
5. Honeymoon's Over var. 5.8 TRNF
6. Fingertips attempted 10b bailed at 3rd bolt

7/6/95 Mt. Tamalpais

1. 11+ TRNF
2. 9+ var to 11+ TRNF
3. 10 face TRNF
   
4. 10- arete var of 10 TRNF

7/18 and 7/19 1995

1. Pine Line 5.7 with Sascha Paris
2. Center Route Moby Dick 5.10a 3 falls rest
3. Drive by shooting 12 at 3rd bolt got spanked
4. Heathenistic Pursuit 10b

1. Hermaphrodite Flake 5.4
2. Eunuch OSNF (new bolts?) late learned this was a new pitch

9/30 and 10/1/1995 Mt Dana and Tuolumne - Great White Book 5.6R and Mt. Dana via couloir styrofoam ice. got sick at 11k from sea level rise too quik.

Thanksgiving 11/23 thru 26 1995 - Trippy Rock at Incline Village and 90' Wall

1. 5.9 with 1 rest
2. 5.11 TRNF

1. 5.9 with var exit LNF
2. 5.7 solo
3. 10a TR crack NF
4. 10 TR roof NF
5. 11 TR NF

Climbing Comp 12/9/1995 Cranberry Crank 7th in Mens Advanced Div. 2 11 boulder probs, 1 10TR, 1 12-TR, and 4 5.11or 11+.

12/21 thru 23 1995 Owens River Gorge

1. Tsing Tao 10a OSNF
2. Show us your tits L with 1 fall
3. Menace to Society 10b OSNF
4. Marco Polo's boys go dirty dancing 5.8 OSNF

1. Babushka 5.8 OSNF
2. High Seas 5.7 OSNF
3. Mandela 11d attempt only
4. CLOT 10b
5. Double Insulated 10b
6. Ghengis Khan 11a NF
7. Kung Pao 11a OSNF

1/6/96 Phantom Spires

1. Fear of Flying 5.9 OSNF
2. Crispy Critters 10a TRNF
3. Ginger Bread 5.7 OSNF
4. Lounge Lizard 10c OSNF

1/7/96 Yose

1. Jaw Bone 10a TRNF
2. Petty Larceny 11b TRNF
3. Churck Bowl Lieback 5.8 OSNF

1/14/96 Pinnacles

1. Rumbling Rampart 5.6 solo half rope half
2. Once around the backside 10a OSNF
3. Bits n Pieces 5.9 TRNF
4. Adams Apple 5.9 with brokenhold fall
5. Tilting Terrace 5.8 OSNF
6. Electric Blue 11a TR 1 fall
7. Smiling Simian 4th class solo
8. Wild Mexican 5th class OSNF
9. Young in Deed 5.6 OSNF
10. The Rookie 5.10+ OSNF

1/19 - 23 1996 East Side Ice climbing Dream mtn bouldering, Horsetail Falls 1 TR and 1 short solo section, 100' ice ramp tied off screw for pro with 30' cascade. Rob C lead, i down lead thick cascade to traverse right to loose rime ice ramp to slope ramp located below chimney in LVC west side of canyon. June lake TR think ice 90'

SLO and Santa Barbara trip with Brad, Vicky and baby Katie

late July CRSP with Adam Metzger- 8, 10, 10, and 11 last two with falls

August 3 thru 7th

1. bouldering deadmans and tuolumne and Rock Creek roped
2. Sideshow 10a OSNF
3. Last Exit 11a TRNF
4. Orange Slab 10b OSNF

remainder of this trip .... Mendell Couloir attempt, made it to Lamarck and pooped out.

8/18/96 Tahoe

1. 1st pitch of Traveller's Butt 5.8 1 fall
2. Hogsback 3 pitch 5.9? reds delight or deception direct

11/96 Guadalupe Rock TR roped solo all lines

Dec 21-23 Joshua Tree

1. False Smooth as Silk 5.4
2. Smooth as Silk 5.7
3. pacific ave dorm 5.7
4. unknown 5.8

1. 5.6 on new sage rock left of against all todds
2. TR face just right

1. WAC 5.8
2. The sound of one shoe tapping 5.8
3. Chute Up 5.2
4. Pepason 5.9+
5. RAF 5.9
6. Descent route

12/27/96 Pinnacles

1. ICBM 5.8 TRNF
2. YFT 5.5 solo
3. Life's still scary 5.9+ OSNF
4. Ready for lift off TRNF

1/3/1997 Pinns

1. 5.4/5.5 start at huge boulder cemented into rock on back side of Resurrection. "Desecration Palpatation" pitch 2 is scramble off or treat as second pitch off. Erik Bratton did first pitch with 30' tumble. I did second pitch off left.

1/4/97 Pinns with Brad

1. egg shell 5.8 OSNF
2. Reg Route Dragonfly Dome 5.6R OSNF
3. Reg Route Tuff Dome 5.6 OSNF I lead second pitch
4. Reg Route H&L Dome 5.5 OSNF I lead second pitch
5. Reg Route Bynum Spire 5.2 solo
6. Rock Steady on Bynum Spire 5.7 solo
7. Chocolate face 5.9 TR broke a hold
8. Orig Route Burgundy Dome 4th class solo
9. The Sow 5.6 OSNF
10. The Sow East shoulder OSNF solo as downclimb
11. Piglet Pinnacle 5.8 OSNF

1/6/97 Pinns with Justin from SCU

1. Cinder 5.7 OSNF
2. Tuff Dome Direct 5.7 OSNF
3. H&L Dome 5.5 TRNF
4. Tuff Dome Aliens ate my buick 10c 1 fall
5. Burgundy Dome Rap Route 5.7 TR
6. Reg Route Sponge 5.2 OSNF
7. The Groove 5.7 OSNF (Dirty loose, hard to protect)

1/8/97 bouldering at Castle Rock

1/12/97 Pinns with Brad

1. 2 bolt 1/4" star dryv 5.6 on 2nd formation north and left of H&L "Got You" TR
2. Adagio 11a TR
3. Prelude 10c TR
4. The Great Chimney 5.9 (Brad FFA the remaining aid moves)
5. Little Javelina 5.9 TRNF

2nd semester at SCU 1/13/97

1/18/97 Pinns west side

1. Destiny 5.8 OSNF
2. Twinkly Toes 5.6 OSNF
3. Rumbling Rampart 5.6 loose OSNF
4. Smiling Simians 5.8 OSNF
5. Windmills TRNF 11c (felt like 11a)
6. Elephant Crack 5.7 OSNF

2/9/97 Pinns with Brad and Jim Lundeen i think

1. Salathe's Sliver 5.7 OSNF
2. Nelson's Needle Reg Route 5.6 OSNF
3. Nelson's Needle East Face 5.6 OSNF
4. N. West face (Rap route) 5.5 solo
5. Nebulous Knob 5.0 solo
6. Wet Willie 10a TRNF
7. Men at Work 11a/b TR 1 fall
8. Cantaloupe Death 10c TRNF

2/16/97 Pinns with Brad

1. Delusion Overhang 5.7 A3 (more like A2, lots of LAs)
2. Anchor Scream 11a TRNF 2nd try
3. Contraband Crack 5.8 A2 followed with tension and objective hazars of baseball size rockfall.' Therefore follow equals the lead."

2/20/97 Pinns with Adam Metzger

1. placed 3 bolts on "Le Petit Mort" (at time thought it was 10b/c) - later to be done by Mei Xi

3/4/97 thru 3/6/97 Joshua Tree

1. Nobody walks in LA 5.8
2. Catch a falling star 5.8+
3. Tumbling Dice 10a TR 1 fall
4. Slim Pickins 10b OSNF
5. Slimmer Pickins 10d LNF
6. Visual nightmare 10a OSNF
7. Illusion Dweller 10b TRNF
8. Fisticuffs 10b aided
9. Run for your life 10b TRNF
10. Sail Away 5.8- TRNF

1. Riding Shotgun 5.7 OSNF
2. Marked Card 5.9+ TR
3. Wooden Nickel 5.5 R/x Solo
4. Exfoliation Confrontation 5.9+ LNF
5. Triple Bypass 10b TRNF
6. Pony Express 5.9 OSNF
7. Bucket Bronco 10a OSNF careful of rope drag
8. High Noon 10b TRNF
9. Hang em High 10a TRNF
10. Wild Wild West 10d attempt, believed to be harder move

1. Lazy Day 5.7 OSNF
2. Garden Angel OSNF
3. Janes Addiction attempt
4. Read my flips 11a TR 1 fall
5. Diamond Dogs 10a LNF
6. 5.5 on East face of Headstone
7. Lickety Splits 5.7r solo

shitty day. belayed brad on antichrist and exorcist

3/8/97 Spring Break Trip with Brad

1. 5.7 OSNF
2. 5.5 solo
3. Glory Days 11c attempt

3/29/97 Pinns with Mike Johnson

1. Nipple Jam 5.8 OSNF
2. Pastie 5.7 OSNF
3. Angstrom's Away 10a 1 fall
4. Piton Traverse on Monolith 5.5 OSNF
5. Portent 5.6 TRNF

May 1997 bouldering at Castle Rock Parking lot rock

5/31/97 Clark Canyon

1. Welcome to Bohemia 10a OSNF
2. Rocket in my pocket 10b 1 fall
3. Little Wing 10c OSNF
4. Stoned Wheat Thin 10a TRNF
5. Bucket Brigade 10c TR 3 falls
6. Well hung 10c TR 4 falls
7. Mini Madness 10c TR 4 falls

6/29/97 Clark Canyon

1. Something for everyone 5.8 OSNF
2. AWOL 10d TRNF
3. Stem Christy 10b pink point
4. court martial 10 OSNF
5. thunderball 11c TR many falls
6. 5.9 OSNF
7. 5.9 OSNF
8. 5.9 OSNF
9. Ruffles 10a TR 1 fall

7/14/97 Yosemite Half Dome Snake Dike "Beautiful Route! All moderately low angle" long slings, rack of stoppers and TCUs 0-4. I lead all pitches. Very tired. out of shape. 16 miles round trip. need 3-4 qts of water min and tank up.

7/25/97 Tuolumne Meadows Bunny Slopes and White Mtn attempt with Lake Wong and Sabrina

1. Black Uhuru 5.6 r/x first pitch only OSNF bring couple cams for belay.
2. Wild in the Streaks 5.7 OSNF
3. White Mountain South Face class 2 only made it to 13,300. Stark beauty - good gradient on trails. it's a road! couldy but not raining by 3pm. Sabrina got alt sick as I did a little.

July to Oct - completing new problems at CRSP and TRNF Donkey Dong right side 11a/b

Lovers Leap trip with Howard L. Haystack Crack 5.8 OSNF and Pop Bottle 5.6 OSNF (wet)

10/18/97 Pinns Nexus area Brad and Dennis

1. Prairie Home Companion OSNF 5.7r
2. Nexus 11c TR 1 fall #2 camalot and small stopper up high
3. attempted TR rt of Nexus incomplete
4. bouldering

10/26/97 Lovers Leap East Wall - great day cold morning with sun coming out midday

1. Bears Reach 5.7 OSNF excellent route! (pro to 3 camalot TCUs a plus)
2. Bouldering did "lord of the rings"

12/19-12/22 1997 Joshua Tree and Lake Perris with Lake W. and Andrew W. -snowed on us in Josh 12/21

1. Bat Crack 5.5 TR i think following Andrew
2. Pinnacles Stand 5.7
3. Mike's Books 5.6 to...
4. Elijahs' Coming 5.9 upper pitch 2 bolts
5. Toe Jam Express 5.7
6. The Eye 5.1 TRNF
7. RML 5.9 TR
8. CS Special 10b TRNF
9. Helix 5.2
10. face left of "sound of one shoe tapping" TR rating?

1. new route 5.6
2. the hard trough 5.8
3. headwall 5.9
4. african flake 5.5 (windy out here that day)

1/1/1998 Pinns with Erik B.

1. First Sister left route 5.5 TRNF
2. First Sister backside 5.7 OSNF
3. 2nd sister 4th class OSNF
4. Heaven's Gate 5.9 TRNF
5. Chimney to notch 5.5. b/wn 3 and 4th sister OSNF
6. Ghost of Tiburcios 5.6 OSNF deserves stars and can use #4 camalot in pocket for lead pro no bolts back then.
7. 3rd sister 10a OSNF
8. 4th sister N. Shoulder 5.1 OSNF
9. 5th sister 5.6 X OSNF
10. 3rd sister little sister spire 5.6R OSNF

2/13-2/16 1998 June Lake Road Cut Andrew W. Mike J. and Jay P. (two storms on friday night and sat night)

1. mixed TR
2. 1 bulge 90degree var to mixed
3. sat truck broke so no ice for me 10' snow drifts trying to reach horsetail for the guys
4. mixed route TR
5. two bulges 90degree ice TR
6. WI 2+ short TR

2/28 thru 3/3 1998 Joshua Tree (26 total routes, 12 solo or leads 10 at 5.8 or less) Got there at 4am...

1. Loose Lady 5.9+ TRNF
2. Dummy's Delight 5.9 TRNF
3. Lucky Lady 5.8 OSNF
4. Beginner's Three 5.3 solo
5. upper right ski track 5.3 OSNF
6. The Eye 5.1 solo, more like 5.4
7. It's cracked up to be 5.9 TR 1 fall, shit
8. Retirement is all that 5.7 TRNF shit
   

1. Mental Physics 5.7+ OSNF 2nd pitch
2. Unconscious Obscenity 5.9 OSNF
3. Dangling Woo Li Master 10a TRNF
4. Caught inside on a big set 10b TRNF
5. Take two, they're small 5.9 incomplete (weak effort on my part)
6. Cuddlebone 5.7 OSNF
7. Texas Big Hair 5.9+ OSNF 3bolts, not 2

1. Gem 5.8 hung on gear
2. Colorado Crack 5.9 TRNF
3. Jaws 5.6R solo
4. Casual 5.9 TRNF
5. Holds to Hollywood 5.4 solo
6. Doin Life 10a TR 1 fall
7. Search for klingons 5.7 OSNF
8. Search for klingons var on Heroidic Terror start 5.7 TRNF

1. Wild Wing 5.9 TRNF
2. Split 5.6 solo
3. Not forgotten 10a TRNF

5/10/98 Table Mtn (day after 2nd yr finals)

1. Where Bovines Dare 10d TR 5 falls
2. some detached block 5.8+ TRNF
3. some chicken named route TR "IC"? what the heck is IC?

6/20 and 21 1998 Lake and Andrew

1. Hard Lark 5.7 good stuff, video'd it. Bring up to #3.5 on Hard Lark
2. Guillotine 5.8+ R/x backed off

6/27/98 Yosemite Glacier Point Apron with Lake, Andrew, Christian Shulmit Brad and Ron Skelton

1. 5.9 Grunt TRNF
2. Harry Daley 5.7 OSNF
3. The Grack - center 5.6 OSNF
4. The Cow 5.5. first pitch only TRNF

6/28/98 Potter's Crag

1. held belay rope for putting in bolts on Hell Nino 10a
2. TR 10c to right later to be called "Hope on a Rope" due to the nature of Hope putting bolts in hanging from a rope.

7/12-7/17 1998 Tower, Needles, Jewel Cave

1. way cool jr. 5.7 OSNF
2. old #8 5.8 OSNF
3. skin to win 11a TRNF
4. Waves Original 5.8 OSNF
5. Critical View 10 OSNF
6. Sharks Tooth 5.7 TRNF

1. Tent Peg 5.7 LNF
2. Cerberus 5.8 OSNF
3. Tent Peg TR OSNF
4. Land of Turkey Shoot 5.6 OSNF (Sylvan Lake)

1. TAD 5.7 LNF first pitch, TR with 4 falls 2nd pitch. Next day was rest day. extra #1 for 2nd pitch. Lake climbed slow with pack and 3 broken headlamps or batt. Rope got stuck on raps. late start 2ish, off by 2:30am that night.

1. Durrance 5.6 OSNF
   1. first pitch excellent OSNF
   2. durrance crack
   3. 3 and 4 TCU and chimney to traverse and up crack then 'flake' crack OSNF
   4. 5th pitch chochstone crack
   5. jump traverse OSNF excellent with Meadows Finish. hour on top. big stuff, short pitches solo'd half of first pitch
2. Jewell Cave the next day and Needles
   1. spelunking
   2. Stardancer with 1 fall 5.8
   3. solo system 5.6 OSNF
   4. stardancer 5.8 LNF
   5. Goassamer 5.7 OSNF
3. returned home next day

8/1998 Castle Rock Howard, Joanne, and chica bouldering

9/18 and 9/19 1998 Owens River Gorge Andrew and chica

1. Abitarot 10a 1 fall
2. High Seas 7 TR and downclimb
3. Crowd Pleaser 8 TRNF
4. clip jr 6 OSNF
5. Imprisoned behind lies 6 OSNF
6. Pumping the sots 5.9 TRNF
7. Not too proud enough to name 5.8 OSNF
8. Alfred Hitchcrack 5.8 TRNF
9. Cinderella 5.8 OSNF
10. Step Right Up 5.8 OSNF
11. Crotalusly challenged 5.6 OSNF
12. Carnubiator 10a OSNF
13. route to right of "Coming Attractions" 5.4
14. Coming Attractions 5.8 TRNF
15. Mile High Crack 5.8 TRNF
16. Wowie Zowie 10a incomplete
17. bouldering at Buttermilks

10/10 and 10/11 1998 Owens with Brad and Andrew and Kristian

1. low octane 9 OSNF
2. high octane 10 OSNF
3. brandenburg gate OSNF
4. short but steep 10b LNF
5. fortune cookie 9 OSNF
6. enter the dragon 8 OSNF
7. sidewinder 9 OSNF
8. win, lose or claw 11a TRNF
9. Expensive but worth it 7 OSNF
10. show us your tits 10b TR

10/17/98 24 hr turnaround to Owens River Gorge

1. Crowd Pleaser 5.8 NF
2. Whatup 10b NF 2nd try
3. breaking the laws 10a NF 2nd try
4. win, lose or claw LNF
5. split decision 10d TRNF

11/14/98 Pinns with chica (saw a tarantula while down climbing from 4th sister)

1. sisters 5.4 center route with var. NF
2. fifth sister 5.6 NF
3. 4th sister N. Shoulder route 5.1 NF
4. 4th sister West Face 5.5 solo and TR
5. Ghost of Tiburcios 5.6 (same as above) TR

Nov. - CRSP solo 5.7 and extensive bouldering

11/20/98 CRSP

1. Corner Route 5.8 solo
2. 5.7 solo on platypus
3. think crack 5.9- solo
4. hand crack 5.8 solo
5. Bates B1 problem on Magoo done first time from stand start (back when there were two good holds)

So Cal and Josh 12/26 and 12/28 1998 chica and Andrew

1. Boxsprings
   1. Good son 5.9 OSNF
   2. Broken Heart 5.7 TRNF
   3. Cookie Monster or ballbuster 5.7 OSNF
   4. Evil Eye 5.9 OSNF
2. Hall of Horrors
   1. Houses of the homeless 5.8/9 OSNF
   2. Ledges to laundale 10a OSNF
   3. buckets to burbank 5.8 OSNF
   4. pullups to pasadena 10c OSNF
3. Headstone
   1. Cryptic 5.8 TRNF
   2. SW corner 5.6 TR hang in Tevas
   3. Walkway 5.4 R solo
4. Indian Cove
   1. Mad Race 5.4 solo
   2. The block 10a OSNF
   3. swishbah 5.7 OSNF
   4. hodge podge 5.4R solo
5. Stoney Point
   1. Hoof and Mouth 5.10
   2. no hands slab slant rock
   3. jam crack 5.2
   4. wilson mantle 5.8
   5. the nose 5.5.
   6. descent route 5.0
   7. carved holds 5.0
   8. pot holes 5.6
   9. slime 5.10+