12-20-05 thru 12-25-05
Chica and I pack and rack for a long and deserved trip to the national parks of Utah. We leave early on the 20th to get to the South Eastern Sierra. I screw up and go too far south, but we're still there in time for me to send some problems at black planets. Afterwards we head for Tuttle creek campground, but it is closed with a locked gate and we are forced to camp a Portagee Joe county campground. We get tent set up and then go into town for dinner with a salad. Salad always tastes good on the road and some hot tea. It was really cold. That night or at some point during the day, apparently, something bit chica and my ankle. Maybe a desert sand flea, maybe something like a mite. Not sure.
The next day is warm enough to climb at the Alabama Hills. We'd both looked forward to doing this for quite awhile. Chica likes sport climbing and I like the Eastern Sierra. Gorgeous day with snow on the mountains. 2 5.7s LNF, and 2 5.8 TRs NF and we call it good and head for Death Valley. We manage to see some sites that afternoon and set up camp in the evening after seeing Scotty's Castle and Ubeeheebee crater. A couple beers and a bottle of wine and a pasta dinner made for a wonderful evening.
The next day is a trip to the south of the valley and see Bad Water, Devil's Golf Course, etc. and we head toward Zion. Sabrina isn't really showing signs yet, but she's slowing gaining on an as-yet unseen systemic allergic reaction. The drive to Vegas from DV was short and pleasant. But driving thru Vegas was bad. Next time I'm going to find a way around downtown. The long drive across the desert to St. George was fairly fast and we got to the Zion lodge and managed to get a room. The next day was a trip to Angel's Landing. An amazing fin of rock. Exposed 3rd class scrambling with large chain rails that actually were in the way in some spots for us old climbers. Chica did amazingly well on this part, despite not liking the uphill part on the switchbacks below. Though on the way back she nearly went ass over tea kettle down the West side of the fin. I had her slow her pace at that point. I'm not inclined to have her take a big fall since we've been together almost 11 years.
Upon our return we see she is starting to show signs of allergic reaction. Benedryl at night and the next day it's not better. The ankle is huge her foot hurts and allergic reaction is closing in on her throat. This is xmas eve. We find a clinic that is open in Hurricane (pronounced Hurikin). Two prescriptions and a breakfast later and we decide it will be better to go home and recuperate there. We make the drive back to San Jose in one day on xmas day.
A doctor visit later and she's still got the reaction. Not good. Now she's seeing an allergist. We watch movies and pass the time while it intermittently rains. But not much climbing the second week. We're both back to work on the 4th. I scheme and plot for another big wall as I toil the time away.
On the 7th and 8th we drive to So Cal in the most insane fog on Hwy 5. 4 hours worth. I set up madre's computer without issue over 2 days, except for the DSL connection itself. It seems to reset itself in the following days. but we have fun while there. The drive back was lenghty, but not fog or traffic to speak of.
12-3-05
Yosemite day trip- last minute Chris called about the Valley. Jeff and I added him on. Bishop's Terrace was first. Sunny and mostly dry. Cold start had Jeff movin slow, but he did the ow variation from the 3rd class ledge system with no real wide gear. We followed and rapped and had lunch and a beer in the sun. drove to Pine Line, and the boyz each lead it. I followed and then we TR'd the 2 lines to the right of it at 11a and 10d, IMO. Not in the guidebook. Had dinner at the lodge to decide about staying another day. Decided there was too much to do around the house tomorrow.
11-24 thru 11-27
Flew up to Idaho to see family. Good trip. No climbing. Too cold and wet. But checked out lots of choss potential. There is actually a guidebook to the inland NW. They charge too much for it, but I'll probably be back.
11-19 and 11-20 Pinns and SPH
late start of 8am. Went up to wrap up La Petit Mort project. Got sick on the hike up, and while TR'ing the route. Des popped in a second bolt on the anchor with the chains I brought up. Mei Xi got the onsight FFA. Well deserved. The finish is bold. No consensus on grade yet.
on 11/20 I got Chris to go up to SPH and finish a project up there; the second and third pitches to "Simulation." I fired the last 10-15' that needed to be climbed and Chris said the length was at half rope so I popped in the 2 anchor bolts with rings and brought him up. He lead the last fun pitch. Low tri cams very useful on this last pitch. At the very least pro to 3" if no tri cams are present. We rapped back down to the top of "Friends with Beers, but no Gears" and TR'd that line and a variant off the right. roughly 5 pitches of climbing for the day.
Nov 11 and 12
Yet another stolen day from winter. We wanted to go up to the mtns and have Chica enjoy the stay with warm lodging and hot showers. A good time even though we didn't stay all weekend in the mtns.
Had to interview someone at work so we got a late start 12:30ish. No traffic really at that point getting out of the bay area. The only trouble was trying to get up to SPH before it got too dark. It barely happened. At a couple points inadvertent delays crept into the drive. I barely managed to get out to the cliff above lost world to snap some sunset shots from the now dissappating storm system. Brilliant sunset. Chica was feeling the effects of altitude as usual even though it was only ~6k. She sleeps it off when first acclimatizing. Got back to the car and was good and sweaty from the hike back up. We stayed at the Strawberry Inn. A nice place, but they don't have any soap or shampoo in the bathroom. Good thing we brought our own. I ordered a beer from downstairs at the bar, ate some pretzels and we were both asleep between 9 and 10.
Slept in because we could. Drove down to Cafe 108 for breakfast. Good "Dardanelle Omelette". The plan was to stop have breakfast call Brad and see if we could drop by and say hi to Chief. He's not doing so good. The only dog I could hang with that had long hair. A true climber among dogs. Instead, Brad, Katie, Tricia and Scott and Anka(sp?) and they girls were all having breakfast already. Katie recognized us and before Brad new it, she was out the door to say hi to us. After breakfast we stopped by their house and said hi to Vic and Chief. Madeline had run off somewhere.
So another late start, but I managed to get us over to the Valley pretty quickly. The sun was behind Middle Cathedral, but El Cap was bathed in warming direct sun when we got there. The plan was to get Chica up on El Cap to get the full experience of being at the base and being humbled by its monolithic proportions, and yet succeed on a climb. We did that. She followed me on Pine Line 5.7. She had to rethink how to climb it. Even though there is a lot of face climbing you have to use the crack. And unlike Josh cracks, which she is used to, she had to really set the feet in the crack and utilize the finger jams on their smooth sides. A great experience. I TR'd the face to the right with many a hang. Much trickier than I remember it. At one point I was stabbing my toe onto a ledge up at the height of my chin out right of me. Crazy. I cleaned the line and by then the clouds had moved in to block our light.
It would have been nice to stay another day but errands for Sunday and an early flight on Monday called us back once we learned the Lodge was sold out, as to be expected. So we went over and bouldered at Swan Slab. I did a few problems. Took a digger onto my hip from cold greasy smooth holds. Solo'd Oak Tree, but not Bay Tree as there was a party on it already and I didn't feel like climbing over them and their lines. Saw Clint Cummins, 2 people he was climbing with... Katherine (sp?) and Sebastian. Chit chatted a bit, then headed out of the Valley. Trippy to see the controlled burns on the way out at night. Erie.
Nov 5th
Another stolen day from old man winter. Glorious temps in the sun. But cloudy and grey in the afternoon. "That dam route" 5.8? ** 8 bolts, gear to 2", was redpointed by Dingus. Angus with nephew in tow developed a new crack line left of the above. 100' pro to 3" Hexes might work well on a couple spots, but those parts are a bit easier than the rest. Unclear how hard it is. A good line though. 1 star after it gets a couple more ascents, at least. And left of that i had to hang to figure out a nice finger crack move to low angle face. Slings on tree with descending rings. 80'?. Forecast is for 24" of snow by Tuesday morning. Think that may be have been the last of it, but time will tell.
Oct 31st
Plans solidified with rapidity once the seriousness was set. And why not serious. Serious rock requires serious effort. Oh yeah, and a sh!t load of fun. A cool morning to meet at Strawberry. The feeling of cheating old man winter pervaded my thoughts this last week. With the unsettled weather and Brad mentioning the snow level up high.... Which I later learned from Scuffy B that it was just a gorgeous dusting and nothing permanent, so far.
After a morning constitutional and pick up some chalk at the Strawberry Store (recently in stock due to Brutus' forward thinking) Dingus and Angus' nephew arrive. We take two cars to avoid a change over of gear and the concomitant delay. The idea is simple, arrive and set out once again on uncharted territory and establish some good climbing on good rock. We do just that.
The sun is just barely touching the crag. We hike up the road to it and it's a chilly but brilliant morning. The belay is in the shade but it's getting comfortable. I flake the ropes, and all is set. Dingus' comeback. After 'the summer of Dingus' was changed to the 'summer of rehabilitation' Ding was anxious. Clearly psyched to climb, he charged the line without hesitation. Stance, drill, climb, hook, drill, repeat. Next thing I know Dingus is ready for a break, and I head up. I'm lost on this new part of the wall. Where are the jugs? Everything is slopey. Crystalline and harsh. I repent several times at having underestimated the line and it's features. A direct line is possible, but I don't have the stones for it. More ledge material if you fuxor it. So I head out right where I know I can stance. An awkward left side drilling makes for slow going and I go up and back, up and back, but at the last I can't seem to get this fuxer to make progress into the whole. Like the bit is dulling or warped. I head back down to the ledge. Offer up the lead and Dingus picks up without any trouble polishing the hole off in no time. He makes easy party of the rest of the line including a small corner that, to me, seemed the most insecure part of the climbing.
With the waning daylight a short finger crack to rib sounds good, but we opt to knock out some TRs. Jeremy fires the direct line, after using the same crack start, whereas just before I used the crack start and then headed out left keeping the toes on the lip, and then running some 5.9ish climbing to the anchor. All 3 fun lines.
Oct 22 and 23
Miwok sounds like he can't make Saturday, but no worries, Evan is down for going back out there. I confirm Erik is going, and at the last minute we take my truck for fuel economy reasons. Evan brings a guy Chris from Santa Cruz, who turns out to be a good addition. The plan; start a new line, maybe finish and old one. Jeff L joins us for the day as well having stayed in the area the night before. They get started on the now determined classic "Legitimation" and the nearby "Simulation." Erik and I try for a new streak on the far right side. It went well. We get 20 or so feet up and stance in the first bolt by trading hammer blows: first me, then Erik, then me. It's hot though. Very unlike the forecast I saw for neighboring Pinecrest. We take a break and decide to wait til later to finish this one.
We have a break with the guys. Drink water and eat some food. Try again. The second bolt stymies me and I give the move and hook drilling to Erik. He comes thru like gold and sets another bolt. Not as bold as we might have been, but with the heat, we aren't really raising any standards today. We beg off for the day. Erik gets a try at Legitimation, but has not lead in a while. Too much SCUBA. I offer up the lead. I had forgotten how good the route is. It goes up some wonderful rock that is really clean with the bolts at just the right places. By this point the boyz are up on "Tears of Joy" reminiscing over Evan and my 3 pitch crack line. They agreed it was fun. I decide to bring up Erik as I want to check out the upper part of Matt and Rachel's line. I had seen it and the climbing looked doable. It as just a question of whether I could connect them. The "Grass Escape" ledge leads on over to water streak, and with no pro between me and Erik I make step down move and gain the good holds. After 10-15' I get the 3rd bolt on the existing line's pitch and head to the anchor. Erik follows in good style. The 100' raps are convenient and allow use of one rope. It might be worth converting the other rap stations to the same way. But hand drilling takes forever.
We replace the locking carabiners on the top of their route with screw gates, but we only have 4 and the angle is a little steep for the position of the bolts. We'll bring more next time. Rapping back down we catch up with the guys and head out. It was good to get a second pitch off the ground. It gets the head straight.
The next day we arrive about the same time, as measure by the shadow positions in the area. The plan is to put a second pitch on "Simulation." Erik has a tough time with the lead, not having his head together yet. It turns out Evan gets sick and Chris could use a climb or two so we let him lead up and set a TR. I follow up and move over to the other anchor as it has a better ledge to stand on. After getting situated in the afternoon, I head up, getting a blue alien in a crack. It's actually quite good. I'm encouraged again, and head up on good features. The diorite on this wall is amazing. The headwall above is steep, so one step at a time. I manage some great feet and get a place to pull up the drill and hammer. Another move and I'm stancing ready to drill right in the headwall. I'd like the bolt higher but drilling above your head is nightmarish at best so I opt for right near me. My left arm still gets a raging pump anyway.
Finshing the bolt, I think I'm done. But last minute decide to clean a couple holds off. Then try the big jug to feel it out. It inspires. After doubling up the draws. Not sure why I do it, but it inspires confidence. I bust the head wall move and get 10' out past the bolt on easier ground after the initial steep section. A big ledge and a hook, just in case, I slam home the last bolt for the weekend. 70' out on the 2nd pitch I'm psyched for the day. I drop back down and we bail. Evan finally feeling better near the end of the day is still not 100% even after throwing up. Back at the cars, we celebrate with a beer and call it good.
Oct 15 and 16
A fellow SPH'r, Miwok shared his latest creations; FITS. With some back and forth and false start weekend, we hooked up late Friday night and cracked the beers and talked tales of Yosemite and SPH and Josh and all things good about climbing. A kindred spirit in style of ascents and positive high energy level, I knew we would be able to get some good climbing in. Little did I know...
Sat awoke with coffee and the wet smell of fresh rain from the night before, then the drive down. It looked like it might not be dry today. But we were here and thought we could at least check it out. The clouds broke and the weather gave us sun. The hike in warmed us, the sun having been on the wall already for a little while. We get to the base about noon after the rainey morning. I point out a couple of the latest climbs and we head for what I secretly hope Miwok is psyched for too. He sees it and agrees. A water streak (that is dry) capped by a 4' roof. Unknown what lies in store, but that's the point. We visualize a sequence from below for the first bit. Miwok doesn't hesitate to let me head out in the uncharted waters. I make a move then clear a green alien placement under an overlap. During the middle part of the day we both notice the silence. The wind stops midday, and in the corner where we are, the water can't be heard. It is spooky. Couple that with the kind of scary moves we have to do; Hannibal Lecter has nothing on this pitch. It looks good, so I move up another move. The features are good. Encouraging me forward. Nothing hard, but consistent. To piece it together doesn't take much, just where do I stance?
I manage the higher stance and start to work immediately. It is a struggle as I haven't been drilling lately. And hand drilling is always tiring. I get the first 1/4" done and can let the bit rest inside the hole. Further it goes, and once in, my toes are cooked so I head back down. Miwok's turn. He gains the highpoint and pieces together the next hard moves readily. The same question; where to stance? He finds a killer edge and hangs directly off the hook. You can tell he's had to hang on hooks before, and this is an A1 hook move. Perfect, the bolt goes in perfectly. The bit maintaining its edge. After that, we trade again. We both see the next ledge that we can stance from. No worries. I get up and the line trends further right than I thought, but it is clean edge climbing. Step back left and I'm on the fall line. I'm a little above the bolt by now. I start scratching around like a hen in the yard looking for seeds. The seed I find is a small crevice, just big enough to accept a #3 stopper, but it won't go in with finger pressure and not at the angle I'm leaning in toward it at. With a slight tap of the hammer it notches into place. It looks really good and I'm bouyant again floating upward. A short section with few feet stops me. I must have spent 5-10 minutes just hanging out trying to relax the feet, then bunch up like I'm going, then settle down again and relax the feet. up and down, up and down. Stymied, I start brushing holds to get maximum purchase. A fiddle the sequence and play the next note to thunderous applause eminating from my own head. Well done, I say.
It went like this; a panicky foot smear, then a dab with the right foot, and immediate HIGH step up and left. The fingers are on 1/2" holds, but thoughts come back to the nut I placed. I'm good, I reinforce. Another leg stretch/stand and I'm able to get an absolute jug. Ah, yes, it made for a good hook too. The stance itself was not bad either, but together I'm able to get the third and last protection bolt in, before turning the pitch over to Miwok. He powers down the pitch again with the rope in situ, and does a false start up and left, then reconsiders and heads right to a good stance. But the stance makes a better mantle and up he goes. It's not bad ground so continues with some nice gusto. Piecing together the next mantle and direct step left across the streak to a small cam placement and as I later find out, a good nut placement. But then immediately back right to gain some ground and yet another reach left before finally stepping up and right to the anchor. Miwok hammers home a ring anchor before lowering for the day. The drive out is exciting that day with the hail that came down, the road was a little slushy.
The next day dawns crisp and clear. The night before had cold air and stars were beaming. I had to go to bed early my toes were so cold. Next trip I'll bring warmer clothers and won't forget the down jacket. We get down to the climb a little earlier today. I redpoint the first pitch and fix a line for Miwok, he'll come up on his own while I start the next anchor bolt ring. Once that's in, Miwok takes on the crack. A bit of self-talk and he worms his way up to just below the roof where he has to make an OW type move. Tell me Miwok, have the calf muscles stopped screaming? I'm a bit concerned. However, the move goes with some struggle and moss coming down. The very next hold he makes is an incut rail/crack. SAHweet! Some gear later and he tries to make the move left to go out the left side of the roof. We talked about which side, but it doesn't really matter to me. He gets up in it and sees that it closes out to a seam. I was afraid of that. Back to the other side. Set some pro, and out onto the face he steps. Quality fun. A good section of small hand and finger crack put us at a decision of whether to set an anchor or continue. Rope drag being what it is has Miwok set a belay. I come up amazed at the grunt move and make easy work of the step out from under the roof. At the belay I take over and head to the top with an exposed 5.5 move to gain a crack that leans up and right. Many options, so I take the middle using both cracks, weaving my way up the rock tapestry. At the top I set a belay on gear and bring up Miwok. We set a rap station in the strategic spot and I scramble up some easy 5th class to the dihedrals above. They are ok, but will need more work and less fun than the others. Miwok manages both bolts; heroic drilling time. And we bail downward having just completed the "Silence of the Dams" 5.8 R ** (*** for first pitch).
Oct 8 and 9-
After last weekend’s let down I’m determined to get the rest of my projects finished before someone else takes the ground up opportunity away. Erik B and I make plans to carpool up. We crash out half way there, then make the approach the next morning. Warm out. But not stifling with the occasional breeze. The next choice is obvious. The main faint streak in the middle of the wall. That and the 2nd and 3rd pitches to the other lines. I slam home the first bolt on stance. I’m an instigator like that. Give Erik the rope and have him place the second one. Little did I know that one crux was going to be right there. He got a good hook and hung long enough to get it in. After that I took over and worked up and onto some easy ground. I fiddled with some pro, but it was easier just to keep moving. Got another good stance and drilled the third about 20’ out. I didn’t feel comfortable moving up to the next stance, as I was already grounder material. I worked out the next moves slowly. I wasn’t sure I could hang out long enough to get a bolt in, so I decided to ‘go for it’ as they hardmen of yesteryear did. I tweak up on small feet and a smaller couple of hand moves and eventually break through to easier ground. Fortunately the moves were moderate and I could continue without freaking. But the fall potential at this point was LONG. By the time I get the next bolt in, I’m out 30’ or so. Whew! Maybe the move is easy, maybe hard, but at the moment the only is that spirit of adventure propelling the momentum. Knowing that I was doing it ground up and pushing my limits was my key motivator. Good moves and another good stance get me another bolt right above the last one, relatively speaking. After that, rope length check and I gun for the next ledge. Just enough room to put the anchors in and have Erik TR it. He likes it and we are feeling good. I do a final redpoint to lead through it cleanly with no hangs. Just as I rap down, who should show up but Brutus and Nurse Ratchet. What a pleasure to see good climbing buds show up at the end of the day. No LESS, they have brought us beers. WoW! They wanted to climb on the other climbs we have done but on their way in their car blows a clutch. To that, we name the climb “Friends with beers, but no gears.”
We get Brutus and NR to a phone that night. Bit of a drive out but they buy us dinner at the Strawberry Inn. Plenty of beer that night and I sleep soundly back at camp. We wake up to a cool morning temp. We left gear at the crag overnight so the approach is easy the next day. Might have been able to drive up the day before since the gate was open, but no need. The hike in is a great warm up. By the time we get there, I’m ready to go. But it is Erik’s turn. The left trending crack to a roof with diorite knobs sticking out is our goal. Then head up onto the ledges and see if we can bypass the headwall.
Erik gets to scrub as he goes. He gets gear and then delicately makes his way to the base of the roof. A big cam, and some hanging and he works out what he’s going to do. That after he says “you want to try it?” I yell “no, that’s all you.” Erik gets through the move with a brilliant set of moves. Grabs a ledge and then sets up for a traverse onto a crystalline dike. He places the bolt a little low, but at least this way the rope won’t cut on the dike. He’s done soaking in the sun. I take off my straw hat shade maker, and climb through the lower part to the high point and lead through cleanly to a good stance. I try to place the bolt high, but I can’t get enough leverage to engage the drill. I try a hook but it pops off as a tug on it to see if it will hold. It won’t. I finally, after what seems like a short hour, get the hole done and place the pro to make the exit moves to a great belay ledge. I anchor us in with 2 more, and bring Erik up. Erik pops in a bolt above to start the second pitch. I want to start another line too, but can’t seem to get my ass up to try a move after a doing a sketch thread behind some diorite. So I do stem instead and place the bolt high as I can reach and get leverage. It’s not much but it’s a start. That is now 4 second pitches I need to finish. I’d like to add a third to the 2 pitch line on that streak. Just to be a part of it. Anyways, I’ve got 2 more streaks on the far apron to do as well.
We call it a day and go and try and find Brutus and NR down in Miwok to get them a ride to the bay area after their grueling multi hour tow out of the canyon. AWD vehicle and it wasn’t a flat bed. Ugh!
I’d like to take a day off this week and do some more, as I’m afraid the season is coming to an end with the cooler temps last weekend. But it sure seemed warm this weekend. For sure Sat and Sun are on.
Oct 1 and 2-
2 days of climbing planned after what seemed like an eternity due to work and travel for work and obligations. I couldn’t wait. The plan was to complete the WW trifecta. Legitimation, and then Simulation and finish off with the last one Simulacra. Thus when read left to right the Simulacra and Simulation of reality is only mitigated by the legitimation process. The three thus reflected in three classic water streaks on the wall.
To my most serious disappointment though, the streak already had bolts in it. Steve mentioned something about seeing them last weekend, but it didn’t make sense. Who else would be out there? July and August were sweltering months for being on that wall. Now there are bolts as of the end of September? I mean, fuck. I get screwed by work and have to go on-call and travel out of the country through no fault of my own, and get snaked on what I had been obsessing over.
The death of an expectation is a hard pill to swallow. Steve M bore the brunt of it well. I was thoroughly bummed. It’s not that any one person owns the rock, but anyone that knows that area would have known I would have happily invited them out for a full tour if only I could have gotten to be part of the ascent and named the line, e.g. like just the upper pitch or something.
Just looking at the route, it seems to have gone in top down. That would be the other bummer, since all but one other route has gone in ground up. That has been the ethic on that side of the canyon. It represents a symbolic contradistinction to the top down style across the canyon. Both styles represented and co-existing. The FA authors on that side, for at least this wall, ask that you try doing routes ground up first. You never know. Suicide Rock has routes as hard as 12 and 13 that are ground up.
With my hopes dashed for that line, we did the line to the left of it. Steve agreed to let me call it “Inconsolable” after my mourning the loss of the last solid streak. I whined like a baby basically.
Anyways, I started up on the seam to flake for the new line, then traversed out left on good knobs and got a bolt in as high as leverage would permit on stance. Another 10 feet of climbing above the bolt would yield some holds and the entrance to the last crack system on the wall that goes to the top. I tried it, got above the bolt a bit but realized I had been on the couch too long, so to speak. I backed off, and Steve, after some delicate climbing, pulled the move, got in a funky little nut and then got some better gear off to the right and went up. I hustled up and then did a short pitch to the new anchors on the black streak, but then we finished the last pitch to the top on the crack and rapped from a tree back down. A bit dirty but otherwise a good line and long addition.
It was getting late so we headed back. Camped at Memorial Boulder and Steve dropped to his plush spot to meet up the next morning. Erik B. and Jenny joined us the next day. We did a leisurely morning with the threatening clouds we weren’t sure about the Pass. I forgot to bring paint to fix the bright hangers from last time. So we opted for something easy and South Facing. Short cracks. Erik lead the 5.8 and I followed and then we both TR’d the squeeze. Need stiff shoes for that business. Ouch! It threatens to rain all day, but never does. Steve headed off to explore some rock near Pumpin Patch and ended up finding a bear. Very cool
Jenny took a serious tumble after trying to onsight solo a dirty and moss encrusted offwidth. Mad props!
After that we found some other new crag and did a line that may have been done before. Nice 5.5 or 5.6 climb. Pro to 3 camalot. We then spied a tight hands crack, that was short. Scrubbed it and worked it on TR, but couldn’t link the moves. Hard. We topped the day with some bouldering on Pump rock. Saw a bunch of chalk.
9/3/05- Up at 5am. Do the drive to the Pass. Catch up with friends that came
in the night before. Have some morning coffee among the trees and the blue
sky as the shadows slink away from the burly warmth of the rising sun. After
a couple rounds of hackey sack, or what passes for hackey sack when I'm kicking
the hack. Drop down and put in a couple bolts on my project, prepped the line,
thin seam with balancey moves. Trundled a 40lb 'tooth' that was flexing. It
went pretty easy, glad I did this one top down instead of ground up this time.
Could've ridden that rock-up on the right foot to the ground. I forgot my
brushes for the exfoliating granite, so on the way back checked out some other
clifflets. On the way stumbled on some sik bouldering potential. Pretty damned
tired so met up with Evan and Ted for some bouldering and beers, mostly the
later. Later that evening stopped by Salsa's B&B for dinner. Just the
topper to a pretty good day. Home by 11:30pm. Doing it again next weekend,
but now I have to convince Whipp that we need to finish this project so that
I can camo the hangers. FYI- pagan hangers are real shiney in bright light.
Today 9/4 birthday party and some house errands. Tomorrow, huge amounts of
nothing. Like a rest day, but without the climbing.
recently on call for work. feeling slothful. good to get out again.
8/21-23- Sun to Tues backpack up to Graveyard Meadows out of Lake Thomas Edison. Met up with fam that went in at Mono Creek. ~5 miles in on Sunday after early start and drive up (gnarly road in)- Good hiking and camping with Ethan., + or - a mile to meet up on Monday, and out Tuesday ~5 miles.
8/18- mid week- working a lot- getting fatter.
8/14- SPH - After Evan and I made a side trip to small crag off the side of the road, I wanted to head back to it. Jeff L and his kids were in town and already heading up for 2 days. I picked them up at Brad's in the am, had coffee, then drove like fiends to the rock to beat the oncoming thunderstorms. Very little cloud cover to start the day, but that ended after some climbing was had. First, Jeff lead up the crack I solo'd last week that was good so the kids could TR something fun. It was a worthwhile choice. The kids did like it and even did a hard move near the top. From the same tree anchor we TR'd a couple ways to complete a line above some crystalline knobs. Each time we'd make progress up the knobs would dissappear and the climbing would get ridiculous hard. So some projects for another time or another time. Then Jeff lead up the 5.7ish crack with a mantle move before the top. The kids powered that, then Jeff and I tried our luck on the thin seam to the left (not exactly what Evan and I envisioned). It climbed right along the seam, sometimes leveraging off the seam near the arete. Sustained varied moves up the seam provided a quality line if it were clean. The crack may yield some thin pro, but it will need at least one bolt to protect it adequately, likely more. Unfortunately, we weren't able to maintain the technique and foresight to get clean TR runs before the rain threatened and we decided to call it good. On the drive down we saw Scuffy B heading up to scout some lines as well. He was running from the heavier rain that was down near the Vista; our plans for Short Cracks shot down. We aimed for Bruce and Em's new area the Kiddie Coral across from the Quickie Mart, but it was threatening to rain there too. We opted instead for some bouldering down by the dam near Brad's house. That area will yield some quality problems. Too bad it was so humid.
8/6-8/7- SCORE! 14k! Made it to the summit... and here's the good part...
with NO ill effects from elevation.
Spent the first night of the weekend at 9k on Sonora Pass. Camping up high
with no cloud cover allows the eyes time to see shooting stars and the Milky
Way. The morning came when How-dude drove up in his plush Suburban ride. They
camped lower and came up to see us and have coffee. We chit chatted til about
10am. How had to take off. Then Evan and I went and climbed at ~9k till the
thunderstorms showed up about noon. Solo'd a short classic 5.3 flake on the
left formation, and followed Evan on a dirty but unique flake in a corner
on the right formation, then quickly did a short 5.7 thin crack capped with
a cool mantle move. These have all probably been done before, but they were
new to us. Headed down for a meal at the Mobil restaurant. Bouldered at Bachar
Boulders near June Lake, then dropped down to Bishop to catch up with my buddy
Sal from San Diego.
Drove up to a bivy site on White Mtn Road that I remembered from years before,
and crashed at ~10-11k overlooking Bishop. Woke up the next morning with many
cars going by and a gorgeous sunrise on the Sierra. Some high flat coulds,
nothing building, and it was 6:15 am by then. We still had some mileage to
drive in, so we packed up the VW Synchro Sal had and drove 500yds. Oil pressure
light! Some toiling and adding of the oil, and we switched to ride three in
the front seat of my pick up. Suxors.
Drove past the open gate, which was a great feeling knowing we would skip
4 miles round trip. Parked and headed up. Made great time to the saddle just
below summit pull. One snow bank crossing, very mellow, and otherwise easy
trail- the road. I wore light running shoes, and they were the most comfortable
my feet have been on a hike in a long time. Sal made really great time. He
got to the summit in 2hrs 15min. I made it in 3hrs. Only winded, no headache,
no nausea. Though we all had numb finger tips and hands. That was weird, I
thought it was only with a full backpack that happened.
Made a cell phone call to Sabrina, signed the register. The clouds were forming
pretty good by then. Dark and hanging over us, but nothing big. "Time
to get the hell out of here" I believe one of us said. A good thing too.
We started down and CRACK-BOOM, thunder. Half way down the ridge, lighting
(not hitting the ground at that point). The thunder right over the top of
us.
Then the light plink plink of precipitation, but not any precip, yep, you
guessed it, OH HAIL NO! Temps were cool at the summit, but the kept dropping
as we headed for the saddle, by then Sal hadn't gotten scared and was heading
straight down (maybe because he was just on Russell the day before and got
hailed and thunder and lightning), I made some switchbacks but eventually
broke into dropping straight down the hillside too as the lightning increased.
GET DOWN was my mantra. People were still going up!!?!?!?!?
Hit the saddle and started to cross country under the eastern ride the road
goes on before it drops to the saddle. By then the guys were well ahead of
me, running at times. I was too winded to run. Right about then, it opened
up. Hail the size of my thumbnail all the way back to the barcroft. Every
time I'd think i was at the edge of the storm it just opened up again. It
hurts. No trees, no cover. And thunder and lightning right on top of me. Welts
on the back of the calves, shoulders, and ears. That's a first for me, usually
you can hide under a tree and wait it out.
The last incline back to barcroft took me a bit, I was pretty winded, because
it was beat feeting all the way back. For that last mile back, my core temp
was dropping. I could feel it. I had synthetic tee, micro fleece lined windshirt,
and a shell. Another thermal layer would have been perfect, but I didn't plan
on it being that gnarly. I also foolishly hiked in cotton pants. I figured
we'd be down by 3, and wouldn't need it. The Whites are as fickle as the Sierra.
Got to the car in pretty bad shape. Cold, numb hands, and pretty tired.
Hail covered the entire mountain and trail and road anywhere from .5"
to 2". Stopped to sleep a bit on the way back into Big Pine, but couldn't
my core temp coming back up I think messed with me. Forced some food down
in Bishop, but only felt normal once we were coming up to Mono Lake on the
drive back thru a stormy T-meadows.
All in all a good time. Long drive home.
7/23 and 24- SPH at Green Acres on Saturday, with an am start. Friends of Pimp4crimps came along too, their first time up to SPH. They were from the East Coast only out here temporarily. Turns out there was more snow than anticipated below White Tower, which is what we were going to do as oppossed to crowd out the only other couple up there (from San Jose). But we came back and dropped down to the right side of Fun House climbing "wicked spiteful straight razor toting woman" or something like that while Chris and Jackie did "Sneaker Pimps" Though they enjoyed the line, Chris was more impressed with "Au Natural" and the 5.7 corner to the left of "Yo Eleven." We cranked the 5.9 LNF, and the 10d TRNF in that same area. The SJ couple took off after some time and we TR'd "Yo eleven" (1 hang for me) and the 5.9 finger crack and "crank start" the TR right of that (got the crux moves, but called it quits before my elbow started tweaking). It is not 5.12. More like 11b imho. Pimp4 thought it was 10d. At some point I TRNF the 5.7 corner after Pimp4 lead it. Jacky also lead it with Chris following.
That night we camped outside Tuolumne Meadows. Lots of water in the meadows. Everything is green and lush. We had stopped at the Mobile Restaurant at the jx with 120. Delicious food. KC caesar salad is delish! I also recommend the pork tenderloin. Next morning coffee and constitutionals all around. Chris and Jackie's goal was South Crack on Stately Pleasure. We decided to meet up with them later. Lots of stuff looked crowded or possibly too far away. We had hoped to catch up with Salathe and Feral who were just getting off of Lurking Fear on El Cap. We decided on Mountaineer's Dome. After some route finding issues, we did "Faux Pas" a nice T-meadows 5.9 slab climb. Protection was decent, but old and rusty. We belayed in the cracks below the first bolted anchor station and above the 2nd anchor station in cracks. 60m rope. Pimp4 did a fine job linking the friction moves that were just enough to keep you moving. We then headed down thru the brushing descent in the gully on the left and went to the Lake. Had a dip, a beer, and waited for C and J. No luck. It was getting on late and we decided to head down to the Valley. After much searching in the Valley parking lots, lodge, and bar, we found them nicely tucked away in the restaurant having a steak dinner. We joined them after the waiter had a pissy fit that we weren't eating at his table when we moved from the 2 person to 4 person table. We were regaled with stories of heat, hacking, and silverfish, and Feral's depth of ability on the Wall and Sal's sacrifice of water. After that I had to get home, it was getting late, and the seeds of inspiration were laid already.
7/16 and 7/17- It started with Brutus' plan to get some climbing done and some new routing. A couple weekends before he put in "The Ramp" at Quickie Mart. A quick 5.8 move to gain a large ramp feature with nice holds to finish on a nice roof crack. But this weekend was something else, the full 44oz of the "Big Gulp." Brutus is well known for his aptitude and desire to thrutch his way up wide crack systems. Naturally this new line was going to be wide, but it was also filled with lichen, dirt, and was steep.
Brutus made the moves and hacked and spit a fair amount of lichen, giving credence to the name of the route. Most of us tried the line on TR after putting in some anchors (which otherwise would have taken specialized large gear to set a TR that not everyone has access to). I thought the moves were interesting, just dirty and worthy of being climbed. I then LNF The Ramp climb, with one proviso that as I broke a foot hold I grasped the anchor hanger for balance. Also that I did a lot of hesitation before getting over the roof. Sharp crystals. Tape for that one. Brad and little Tricia showed up to say hi, and were going back packing. Both climbs are nice additions to the area. More climbs could be done in this area, but they are somewhat short. That evening we went to the Kiddie Corral across the street to finish another line Brutus and Nurseratchet were establishing. Mosquitos and heat made the easy moves seem really hard for placing the bolts by stance. One was done that night, the next done in the morning. I ended sleeping up on the Pass that night for cooler temps. The only odd thing about sleeping up there was a "sniffing" sound near my truck window. hrm?
The next day I met up with Brutus and the gang (Steve and Amy stopped to join us yesterday for something new to climb). I solo'd a couple things on the Kiddie Corral and decided it was pretty darn hot. Brutus and I exchanged boulder problems we'd worked on just up the Hill at what I'd called Camp-o-rama for lack of a better term. It is more likely to be called Quickie Mart boulders in the long run. Not a lot, but there are a few good problems to be had in the moderate range. We aimed for higher elevations to alleviate the heat. I really wanted to get some motivation going for an old crag I hadn't visited since back when I was at Western Mountaineering. Clint Smitheman and I had scoped out a short 50' pitch of a large chimney system. I basically got scared and backed off leaving an anchor there. Several years later we find ourselves on the pleasant hike in across a meadow and dropping down to the North face of this thing. Brutus and NR immediately see the value of going to the top starting with the half pitch. It was a success. With much loose rock and still pretty warm temps they summitted and pronounced that they had been "Mungebagged"; a derivation of "Sandbagged" but much worse in that you get sandbagged on mungie rock, often loose. Well done you two!
In the interim time I tried to go up another crack system but was stymied immediately by an intimidating fist section that I didn't think I had endurance for. Turns out that Steve did some wonderful stemming to save his strength. He got to the top of the pitch with no falls, and no whimpering despite a delicate section bypassing a roof on the left after the nice double crack system. He placed a couple anchor bolts to be able to get down. From those I TR'd that line pronouncing it really fun, and Amy had a couple laps on it as well, showing fine style as only Amy can. :) After which to get one more pitch in I TR'd the offwidth to the right that smelled somewhat uriny. It's topped with a nice roof move. I want to lead that one later, plus some others. But I need to train more. These late nights working are pretty harsh on the time, but at least I am resting my elbow more so the tendonitis doesn't hurt as bad. We headed out to cold beers and fresh blueberries and fudge and made plans for bigger things.
7/10- early am start to catch up w/ Feral Rat- vague plans about something new he's got basically done. I know where he camps so at worst I'll catch him there. I get there thinking 8:30am is early, we'll have coffee, bullshit, and then I'll convince him to climb at higher elevations.
No go. He's not there. I think, no prob, I'll catch up to him but bring a minimal pack. I hike in, and start yowling "Hey fuckleberry" "where are you?" but no luck. i hump back to the car and leave a note on his car and proceed to check out some other new stuff I wanted to revisit from different perspective. worthy hike for my stuff. not half as chossy as I remember and more cracks than I remember, and not as steep on the potential sport lines as I remember. I call Feral and he's already bailed, all tore to shit from the previous days efforts. Productive for him nonetheless.
Anyways, i pound a couple beers and solo some stuff at the Vista, chill and enjoy the afternoon watching a couple practice aid and trad on the double crack corner. That and young kid trying to climb a 3rd class slab in oversized street shoes that were unlaced. Interesting in a sad way, but cool that he kept trying. I tried to over advice about keeping your heels low, but he wasn't getting it. eh, i was buzzed, so no matter. After awhile I head out to get home before the sun is staring me straight in the eyes since I forgot my sunglasses. A bit of a lost cause for the day, but hopefully make up for this coming weekend with 2 days on and new routes on the list of 'to do' items.
7/2 7/3- A weekend away with mi chica. Left late on Friday afternoon since I forgot to get the day off and misunderstood the situtation as too how seriously she wanted to leave town. Work has a way of doing that. Oddly I was not motivated to get moving real fast but still got everything packed and out the door with marginal holiday weekend traffic thru the central valley, etc. Camped late near Bachar Boulders. Little dusty, but slept pretty good. Chica slept well. Got up went into Mammoth for breakfast at The Stove. Delicious and stuffed. 4th of July weekend Mammoth has a town fair with artists like Vern Clevenger and others who sell their wares. Fun, and after the it started warming up, we were ready to head out. We dropped down to Bishop for lunch and then back up in altitude to Lake Sabrina. Of course. We had a beer or two, some snacks, and walked the dam. All this with little or no ill altitude effects. Unbelievably fortunate given her previous problems with altitude. Also no bug bites!!! After chilling and soaking the feet in the creek we dropped back to Wilson's to pick up some toggles to fix my climbing pack.
Dinner at Whiskey Creek started as a fiasco. The dimwit blonde at the front gave away our table to a family of 6 so they could sit next to each which pushed us from 10 minutes to an hour away for dinner. Upstairs we went for a beer and calamari. The dimwit blonde 2 up there brushed us off by not acknowledging we were there. Tried to order from the bartender and he brushed us off. Crappy service so far. We got our table called finally and 'baked' Sean was very pleasant even if he didn't get the salad down. No worries, the steak was superb and the asparagus tasty. I'll probably try somewhere else next time for dinner, but the Double nut brown beer was chocolately heaven. During dinner plans were hatched to climb at Clark Canyon. We camped near the turn off from 395 to wash up in the morning after breakfast of eggs and bacon we cooked at camp. We were the 2nd car in, and climbed at Area 13 with a couple other climbers from So Cal. Mobetta Forgetta OSNF, Exqueeze Me OSNF, and Too Many Princess OSNF were done by me and followed by chica in good style. Then it started to get warm in the sun. But by now we left a large group that had shown up with a very talkative lady named Emily. Thx for the heads up that bolt was missing the hanger.
I rigged a TR on the right hand 5.8 climb on The Wave formation after hand tightening the right-hand bolt head. Slightly dissappointed in not leading it, I tried to lead the next one over. The ratings are not equal. The left is 5.8, but the right is more like 5.6 comparatively. With the sun, and not sure I wouldn't tear the chica apart by taking the whip in between the bolts, and generally being out of shape, I decided hanging and resting between bolts was the better part of valor. Fun climbing on both. We called it quits early to check out Mono Lake and get dinner at the Whoa Nellie Deli. Pork Tenderloin still done right. Over dinner decided to head back early to beat traffic and get some projects done around the house. We basically wanted to head back early to claim victory over the mosquitos, i.e. no bites, and over no altitude sickness despite climbing at 7,900ft!!!
6/25 and 6/26- Long week, blasted for the hills Friday night after learning Evan couldn't go. Sat got a late start after breakfast. Headed to WW. Got in another 100' line- quality climbing with it's own anchor. Called "Simulacrum." A map, a representation, a topo? Does it bear resemblance? Is it separated from the real? Or mere simulation unweighted from its anchor?
A little mungy, but all the used holds are clean. No elbow trouble to speak of, kept the joint warm over the weekend using a cut sock. Seemed to help. Though I did manage to bash three of my fingers with one hammer blow. Wondering if I will lose it? Temps were kind of warm in the Sun, but if we moved 50' left, a breeze would hit us. Weird positioning of the breeze.
Sun was different. Hit 2nd Q. Followed Brad and Dan F. on the 5.6 Easy Meat- exiting via the hand crack, not the straight up chimney/ow. Brad then lead Carne Knowledge and Dan and I both TR'd it without falls. I thrutched a lot less than I thought I would. Then Brad tried for the big roof. Too much filth and munge covered the feet to make it worth pushing to the arete. Later we'll try the arete. Scoped some other stuff out, and polished the day with Dan on some bouldering cracks in the Crack Corridor area. Took at look at Lyons Res boulders.
6/9-6/12- Managed to get out for 4 days. Did a late start Thurs and checked out conditions and stopped by Salsa's B&B for good company and to see how big the kiddos are- getting tall quick! Amazing. It rained pretty good Thursday, especially at the lower elevations. Brad hooked me up with Tyler for some climbing on Friday. Good conditions in the early part of the day with some rain later. We immediately set a TR on Paul's Book which gave a good pump. Probably no single move harder than 5.9, but we were pumped and I was glad I didn't try and lead it. Tyler nabbed the TR with a rest, but otherwise was showing good power for never having done a lieback before. Then we TR'd the 5.7 ow to its right. Tyler almost got stuck, and I literally couldn't move up- locked into place by my body position. I opted to go around on the blocks. The upper part of the crack is good, except to bypass a bush. The weather was clouding up so we opted for something quick and easy- The Vista. We set up on teh classic 5.7 for a couple laps each. Then moved the rope over to the left to TR the face just left of the Flake.
When staring at it a couple weekends ago, I seemed to recall playing on it before. The memory came back more as I tried the moves this weekend, but I can't be sure. My guess was that I did it but didn't think it was worthy to record since it was small and someone I'm sure has done it before me. The rating was roughly 10c. Maybe 10b. Hard to say since I'm pretty weak these days with tennis elbow these days.
Sat I basically spent checking conditions, drove to the Pass, took pics, checked cell reception and hiked around a fair amount. Each time I go up 108 I am impressed by it's beauty and by its ability to still surprise me. I wasn't in the mood for cooking my own dinner so went down the Strawberry Inn. Saw the same waitress that was there last year. Apparently I look like her ex and threw her off a bit. But the chicken was good, and after reading a bit I headed for camp at Pump Rock.
Sun Whipp and the gang came up. I was up early, made coffee and oatmeal for bfast and thought I was behind what might have been an arrival time for Whipp. Turns out I was early but managed to see some familiar faces from last season. Tom and Dan at the parking area for LW. Talked a bit between checking to see if Whipp arrived. Turns out Rob in Tom's group was up BC boarding up near the Pass- prime. While waiting for Whipp back at the truck, a couple guys showed up that were in the same group. Walked in with them and soon Whipp, Rene and Mo showed up. Good conditions, weather, and feeling of being back at home in SPH pervaded the day's events. Later Brad, Joel, Allen, Vahn (sp?), and Hamid joined up with us. All sorts of routes from chimneys to aretes were done. I managed to take a hang on Prime Rib, but with my elbows killing me, I opted for taking pics and a short day to see my sweetie earlier. All in all, a good weekend.
5/21 and 5/22- Got an invite to climb with the SSCA. I had always heard good things from the name as far back as I could remember hearing about them. So I accepted Matt’s offer to come down and hang out for a day and climb on some new stone.
Woke up at 4am to get moving. But only went to bed at midnight. Bad idea. No worries, I was mostly going to hang out anyways and get my groove on Sunday. Didn’t work out that way. After forgetting my sunglasses and driving straight into the rising sun, and getting lost and driving up past Oakhurst to get to Chiquito dome, I managed to roll into camp at what I thought was a late hour. Turned out to be just right. Met Matt, Ben, Matt’s brother, and Jerry (and a whole host of other folks throughout the day and evening). After morning constitutionals and getting critical mass we humped up to the dome. It was pretty normal approach like hiking to Suicide Rock. But less defined trail. I lagged behind the whole crew, another reason for me to train, and was immediately psyched by the low angle right side of the dome we were to climb on. I grouped with Ben and Torey and we started up Archline to a new line Tootsie that joins with Acolyte and some moderate pitches at the top. In total we swapped leads on six pitches. 2 each. Just what the doctor ordered. It was one of those days that manages to persuade you that life is just about perfect. Good climb, partners, and sunny sky with a slight breeze and the thought that you’ll be down and eating grub at the end of the day. (just got the chills typing it up)
Got to the top for a summit shot, and made our way down the NE shoulder with one slip and bruise. Got to the bottom and realized I left the pizza in the pack. Nasty. On the way out recovered the proper trail and easily got down for grub at Grahm’s B&B in Oakhurst. Thanks much for the party and the bouldering on his new wall. Huge!
I decided to not really partake of the brew as I needed to get to Sonora for the next morning. I still managed to scare the shit out of myself by driving 49 from Oakhurst to Sonora in the middle of the night after a basically sleepless night just before. I made it obviously, but I don’t recommend it.
On Sunday, those tards Ev and Rosco woke me up at 7am. Was to meet Uncle Stinky at 8am at the Strawberry Inn. The plan was to head down canyon, but the road was closed. So after chasing down racer x down to hells half acre because he didn’t realize the cut off was, well, cut off, we headed up to check conditions elsewhere. The snow level this year was off the hook with snow down to 6k into late May. The pass only opened on the 27th I think. 2nd Quarry was buried at the parking area. The idea was to hit Short Cracks, then the Vista for a pump and finish off with the now mostly dry Pump Rock. Worked like a charm. Loads of fun. Couple of beers and it was declared a worthy day.
Highlights- TR on Sweet 10b NF with beta. Solo The 5.7 flake, the 5.8 corner,
and the 5.11 middle boulder problem to hand crack, then TR’d the 10d
arête NF. Pump Rock was really feeling wasted tired, but did some futzing
around.
5-14-05- SPH- Arranged to meet at 8am, but the alarm volume was turned down by some anonymous SO. Consequently I didn’t get up there til 9am. Angus and Dingus were gracious enough not to give me a traditional ‘where the fuk have you been beat-down.’ It was all well and good because I had the beer iced. Down we went in the Dingus 4x4… Humped up the crag, with it starting to get warm. Bit of breeze though, and at the base are a couple shade trees, though overall the wall gets a lot of sun until afternoon.
The objective was the fix the screwy bolt on Legitimation, and finish the other line Ding and I started up. Since Legitimation was wet (it is a water streak after all, in a heavy precipitation year), we headed to the other line. All the way up my feet were like lead weights; could have been the 4 hrs sleep, could have been the lack of hydration, the beer I drink at the trailhead, or my general sorry shape. In any case, I was not ready to lead up and bolt from stance. For our ‘special guest’ Angus, this was his first time in there, so I quickly suggested he head up and get some more bolts in. What I didn’t know is that he would put in the rest of the bolts all the way to the belay, do it strong, and through some superb terrain. He had a real eye for where the bolts were needed, and where the line should go. I would have chickened out right onto easy terrain.
Once that pitch was done, the only thing left was to lead through myself, or was it? They guys called down for a second pitch? “Ok, I’m coming up” I said. I followed the first pitch. Glad to not have to lead the first 20’ as it is somewhat pumpy layback. I really approved of the last 3 bolts and the technical moves that accompanied them.
The start to the second pitch was wet; gingerly I stepped around the water and cruised up very moderate terrain to the next tree. A few nuts here and there, to keep the system redundant and I was on top. We moved the belay over to the bigger tree and rapped down.
Not wanting to end the day, despite the onset of a headache due to lack of hydration I learned later, I decided to do an additional pitch off to the right that joined the same first pitch tree anchor. It wasn’t worth it other than to get additional mileage for the day. Granular, lots of munge, and not very aesthetic for being on an arête. The better line would climb just inside of the arête left of it and right of the new line.
Dinner at La Morenita and a long drive back home had me asleep about 1am.
Emailed Ding the next day to try and get the consensus on the route name,
tentatively called “Special Guest Leader.” 5.8/9? 8 bolts. Pro
to 2”. Small Aliens/TCUs and small wires useful. 2 pitches. 60m ropes
to ascend and rap from trees. FA Angus, Munge, and Dingus 5/14/05.
May 7th- Got up to SPH to check conditions. Beautiful with the snow, but not much open yet. Did a couple easy solos at Donnells Vista, and took a bunch of pics. Pump Rock looks way different with the snow around it. Mtn biked into a road cut moss covered slab that looks promising with some work. Confirmed the location of a great potential crag in the same vicinity. couple hundred feet for both locations. exciting. Also found out that the road to Potters is open. Very good news. Checked out an obscure TR area from the old days, and checked Two Mile Bar out from distance after finding a Rattler on the road on the way in. ack! The cool thing was seeing a pair of Bobcats, or big feral cats in the same area. Very cool. Saw the stuff across the river from road that goes into So shore of Tulloch lake. Just need to find a way to get in there to have a nice crag for afternoons in Spring and Fall. Probably private property. Going in next weekend probably to finish some unfinished stuff.
early May- Went up with Feral Rat for an after work session. Skeetos are out and about. No bites to speak of. Did the magoo circuit, beak and one attempt on cosdaddy. No luck. Just getting back up to speed after being out sick 2 days. Probably go back up on Sunday. Saturday is exploration on SPH via mtn bike.
April- Tendonitis in my elbow has kept me away from rock for awhile. Daylight savings change made it easy to get up there after work. On the week ending on the 15th, I got in a couple days with Sal in his bright yellow mustang rental- highlight of which was getting Tree problem done again. Nice drive, and good getting back into bouldering. Started to feel good on a dawn patrol Saturday the 16th, with 20 problems in 1.5 hours- few true SDS problems though. Monday the 18th, got rocking in the evening with Feral Rat getting back into the swing of things. Fugger didn’t go soloing on Sat a.m. Anyways, fell on Tree problem, almost got cosdaddy, and plowed thru 20 or so problems- mostly VB-V2s. On the 20th, I promptly fell off of Tree problem without a pad and bruised my heels, and rolled my left ankle on a second attempt, and on a third attempt came down between 2 pads that had been adjusted mid-attempt. Missed a sesh on the newer stuff, but at least managed to get some warming up done at Magoos before it all started. Went up on April 30th for a hike and a lap on superdank. Was going to work new stuff, but realized I was pretty tired and didn’t have a pad and it was pretty wet.
3/12 and 13- A biz trip to
2/25-26- Hit sandstone new stuff. Finally got "Superdank" and all the variant mantles over the lip. The mantles if considered separate problems are probably fas. Quality boulder. Evan got "Drop Out" coming in from the left. A good alternative. The only thing left is probably to do the moves and reverse it.
2/20- lots of rain in Nor Cal lately. Mostly hiking and scoping some stuff. Cancelled a trip to Josh. But over the last couple weeks I've been able to boulder some stuff.
2/6- The Touchstone crew was there. Seemed like people were having fun even if crowded at Magoos. A group dropped down to Lost Keys. Evan fired like usual and for being out of shape I managed to get through the bench crux cross through without issue, twice. The slap and the mantle keep hampering me on this long problem. No enduro. Everyone headed up to the traverses so I bailed out to get home for dinner with the chica.
2/5- Not hitting the climbing gym. Save tendons. Must save tendons. Went bouldering at Castle, caught up with Evan and Mark. Quality day of new stuff. Working a killer prow problem. Can't wait to send. Tried to get Evan to go back on the 6th, but we had a group in tow and waltzing away from a load of people you said you would hang with is poor form. Probably 5 main lines on that wall, all good. Some share starts and eliminates are plentiful. More good stuff...
1/29- Pinns- Cold morning had me pulling on draws. I'm old today. Got to the belay and scoped some lines out, but most are bad because it gets closer to the trail. Des got in the first bolt off some mank hook and slung knob. It wasn't as high as he wanted, but after looking at the first move it is just right. He got another one in with little to know trouble on a good stance. My turn, I launched up, as much as you can say "launching" on a 5.7. Got out a ways becuase the stances weren't real helpful. I'm out of practice for sure. Taking off time for my pinky tendon made me soft. It's still not right after hammering all day. Finished that one from hook and stance and knob combo, and thought I might come down. Got over myself and decided to free climb up and if needed, come back down. Went a little high again, and a little further left like intended with the first one I did. Stance was less nice, but the hooking was better. Finished that bolt. Probably out about 45' feet so far, maybe farther. Hard to tell. The belay needs an anchor. Probably remove the lower one and move it up. We used the first bolt 15' up on Redline to anchor as a back up to the tree. I don't want people using that tree. Evan and Grant were in the vicinity all day enjoying some Flumes wall and some casual classics. They took off early. Des and I headed to the Direct on Machete, 1st pitch. Good line with good rock. Des worked it thru the crux but sailed it on TR. Next time for sure when he's fresh. I froze as the evening grew nigh. Had dinner at Playa Azul. Not a bad meal at all. And Jim Bridwell didn't drink Tecate as his main drink of choice.
1/15- Trip to Castle Rock State park- Evan and I warmed up at Magoos. Cranked the usual easy problems, then Beak problems (trav and sit start to standard mantle). Fueco was there and wanted to try the balance V4 on Garage Door rock. Tricky stuff. Probably get that soon though. Couple week attempts on Duct Tape by me. Evan fired in Tennies. Got it on vid. Grant pulled up with a Doc friend of his from out of town. Offered to show us the stuff that's boulderable on Shady Rock. Basically, boulder the 10a to ledge and downclimbe, boulder the 10c to ledge and downclimb, boulder the next one to the right and downclimb. The only one on the N. side we didn't do was the arete. Couple of the guys did the full traverse around the rock. Pumpy! There are some casual up problems there too. From there we dropped to Underworld. Evan fired an 11 lead while Fueco and I froze trying to do one of the "Gods" boulders as a boulder problem. Evan's car is fast.
1/23/05- Pinns High Peaks- Feral met me at my
house early. Got down there in good time. Met Brad at the Tunnel and Bridge.
Good timing. He arrived a few minutes after us. Tried to locate the studs on an
old Belizzi project, but no luck. mossy. TR on
"Tunnel Traverse," "Train Spotting," and "Babies on
the ceiling." Babies on the ceiling is slightly runout
after the last bolt, but it's easy ground. Train Spotting's
bolts need to be replaced on the last 2/3, aka part
of the Tunnel Travese old 1/4" spinners. Not
feeling too well, like I got kicked in the left nut. Got better throughout the
day. But I wasn't up for the lead on the project. I got some good shots and
found two premo projects of my own to do in addition
to bouldering the gully off to the left of the
project. On the intended project, Brad fired up and got in another bolt, but
was missing fam so he headed out early. Feral was
cooking in the heat (this is January right?) and made the moves but had to come
back to the bolt for the bolt bag after finding a key knob sling and hook
placement. He went back up and hung and drilled the final lip bolt, lowered,
and cranked the redpoint. "Operation Pinnacles
Freedom" FA Des, Brad Young, Robert Behrens and