Holidays '04- Only two days of climbing due to rain and familial plans. The first a Monday 27th at Mt. Woodson with Jeff, the chica and Bvb. Great trip with BvB for a half day. Drinking SNPAs by 10am. Sending Woodson 5.11 by noon. Bob started us on a pressure sensitive 5.10 flake Razor's Edge. Sharp, not a warm up for me or Jeff. Moved up to TV Screen formation for a couple classic arete problems. Got the 10 version, and within inches of the 11 version. Classic!! Nearby we knocked off the Slant Crack 5.9 and downclimbed the 5.8 crack on the back (i think that's it). Quickly attempting and leaving the 'knobs' mantle problem for another day. On the way we stopped for a Kevin Powell problem called Titanic. Had to stack pads to get it to where the ground level used to be "back in the day." Hit the nearby Painted Boulder for a highball 5.10. Quality moves. Most all of the problems of the day were sent with good beta thx to our tour guide. After that the classic Lemmon Schiffon had a couple tries from us tardos. Almost ready to blow it off I gave it another good go and got up to the knob and almost into position for the mantle. wheeew-back down to terra padda. It's kinda high considering how slabby it is. After a rest and changing back to the decent shoes I nabbed it with some good encouragement from Jeff and Bob. Bob was sending these problems left and right. You could tell he'd mispent his youth here. We wrapped up the day with all of us sending Bonnie's Bounce- a nearby 5.10 and walking up and knocking out Baby Robbins at 5.9. All quality. Bob wrapped up with a solid set of skillz shown on Jaws. Old school 5.10+.

The other day was Thursday the 30th. Good morning weather and a bit late got us to Billboard Buttress at Indian Cove a little after 10:30am. Rob M. pulled up right after us. First time climbing with him. Strong guy and very pleasant to climb with. I wanted to get chica on some stuff today because she doesn't like to boulder. So we roped up a nice bolted 5.8 Heart Slab or Heart Route on Campfire Crag's South face. She was a little rusty, but was able to get all the moves without falling and only minimal crabbing at me. ;) Afterwords the objective was to get Joe on something fun, like Sweatband, so I lead chica up Plain But Good Hearted a nice 5.6 I have fun on quite often when at Indian Cove. Set up the TR and Joe fired the 10c Sweatband without any trouble. In the interest of time and wanting to boulder we called the rope session done. We then headed to this feldspar laden boulder near Rattle Snake Canyon I checked out last time I was in Josh. It turned out to have some really good lines on it. Some of the flakes are still exfoliating, but that area has some solid potential. One wicked project we saw the next morning was just tremendous!

Got to see my nephews on this trip. Good kids with lots of energy.

11/25-11/28 2004- Since I was able to leave town chica and I headed to warmer climates with the oncoming Nor Cal storm. Driving down Thursday didn't leave room for climbing that same day. Friday morning was a pleasant late rise with a nice drive to Sespe creek's "Black Wall." With quite a few cars there we chose a lesser known and lesser quality line, but one with historical significance. "Mctavish" at 5.6 looked decent enough. With a muddy start I rigged a belay just off the ground for us. Then headed up and left on crack with occasionally decent pro. Hitting the roof, I stepped up onto the pedestal-like move to do the final 35' runout to the tree anchor. Chit chatting with some locals it started getting colder. Chica was backpacking the 2nd rope up and snagged it just before it came undone fell into the creek on route. The sun gets off the wall quick around there so we headed out. I wanted to check Pine Mtn out, so I did the drive up. Good sunshine was available though chilly and the problems were fun with a stellar vista and forested location. I'll go back for sure. Chica was feeling the elevation so we headed out. Got a room in Santa Barbara again and woke to head down to Point Mugu. Had a raging headache, so I did one or two easy problems and bailed. After some tylenol kicked in and food and riding, resting in the passenger seat listening to the incessant rain on the car I started feeling better as we got into SLO. Stopped at the usual mtn shops and scored on some good gear. Got home early and had a lazy sunday at home.

11/16/2004- Pinnacles season in full effect. Whipp and I went E side after good natured persuasion to go to the high peaks from Brad was overturned in favor of a shorter hike post flu. Chris B. found us in the parking lot and joined us for part of the day. Whipp lead "Stupendous Man" to warm up even after a high % alcohol evening the night before. I followed but couldn't get the mantle without feeling uterly drained. Tried to squeak around to the right and step left, but no luck. Hung. Got it on the second try. Pretty much no energy or power or lungs post flu. While Whipp and ChrisB did "Broken Arrow" I headed up to replace the old 'unfindable' 1/4" split shaft rusted mank on "When in doubt, run it out." Now replaced with 3/8" x 3" rawl/powers bolt using the existing hole. This line is distinct from the line to the left of it and right of it by 6-7'. I did a TR lap via rope solo of the line and met up with the guys at Monolith. Whipp worked Foreplay with temperatures increasing. I smashed the epoxied holds undernearth Monolith and picked up trash. Before ChrisB left he lead up "Ranger Bolts" as resident "Ranger Bolt" expert. Whipp got all the moves after a couple tries at the crux and will get it the redpoint for sure next time. I futzed with the lower cruxes, but again no power. Early day to some cold brews Whipp had in my truck. Brad rolled up for a transfer of gear. Supertaqueria dinner and home at a reasonable hour.

-one day bouldering at Castle in between these two trips in between rain and flu. Also got two days at Touchstone.

10/16/2004- Finished "Legitimation" 5.8 quality slab climb. One botched bolt to go back and fix, then added anchor at good ledge. TR'd line right of it called "Good climb hunting" 5.10ish, maybe 10b. Good line. Dingus got on the big mossier streak before pendo action effect kicked in. Went off right to start new project. Right facing short corner to ledge, and slab moves using three bolts so far. Maybe a little run out. TR'd line right of it from high point. Weather expected the following day. This may be the last of it.

9/25-26- Sept- grim month for climbing, car accident on central coast with motorcycle- head on, rider walked away. His fault and he has no insurance. got poison oak as a result of walking in plants along road. 3 weeks nada. Got a bouldering afternoon in once this last week. This weekend however, was better. Saturday made progress on 3 star classic new slab route. Brad and I split the duty, he got the harder stance since I was tired. Did a couple laps to the high points for climbing fun. Sunday, followed Misha (sp?) on a bunch of stuff at Burst. Hopefully back up to speed next weekend for more slabby-ness.

Mid August 04- Castle trip of bouldering once a week after work, or some times on the weekend.

8/28/2004 &8/29/2004

Sat am early start with Evan after many people bailed out, except Evan. Due to the lack of response we opted for fun climbing rather than new routing down in the Sun. Checking the temp forecast at Pinecrest Ranger Station, up was a good choice. Burst Rock. Saw Royal and some folks heading out to Roche probably. Went to Baffin Island instead, Evan the stronger climber started us out right with a 10b “Two Fine Attributes.” I followed no falls. I TR’d the face left of it, right of the other 10b. For lack of history on the TR problem, I’d call it 10b also. “Attributary”

E got the 10c arête, and then was pretty out of it. We sparked it up and powered up “Puff n’ Stuff” the ‘11c’. I got the lead up to the crux but got shut down. Evan powered through and then I followed clean on TR. Probably more like 11a/b. Not as hard as Fruity Pebbles. After that we hiked all over the Talus fan checking problems. Many good lines to be had. Crashed at Memorial, and the next day Evan and I hit Lost World with Joel A. Superb.

Pangea was first. Just the first pitch. It was such an enduro fest I had to hang twice. 180+ feet of continuous 5.9-5.10a climbing. Excellent. The right hand finish at the end is a nice cap to the line. Tried a run on Green Monster, but was pretty tossed by then. Lowered to save something for later. Joel did 5N06 clean, and worked Green Monster. Evan got Green Monster on TR clean. By then we headed for the 10.b next to Timeless. Good climbing. We met some folks from Joel’s lab. Dan and Lindsey, Charles his friend (sorry didn’t catch a name) as well as Dave ? and Tom A. A good time was had by all. Almost seemed crowded, almost. ;)

8/8/2004- Trip with Mike D. into Weeping Wall. Did the big dihedral on the far right side. It was hot and this was the only route with shade. Easy choice. The approach took longer and was warmer than ever before, but I was determined to finish a new line on this slabby wall. I humped the drill in there, but didn’t even use it. Stoopid too, because the last pitch needs bolts badly. The first pitch is a bit dirty starting from two pine trees tucked up into the base of the corner. But the climbing is easy and fun with some fun stem moves; climb thru the Bay Tree and belayed in the chimney. Had Mike come up and try the next pitch but the moss and awkward start move and not having climbed rope in awhile had him off balance. So I lead up the next short pitch using a stem to chimney to finger crack on top of block, then to a short layback on some mossy rock finishing at the next tree; an oak normally. But I went to far, had to back track and then bring Mike up. Then finished it off with a 100’ plus runout on clean 5.7 crack to avoid the upper corner’s dirty and loose block. Rapped from the big pine at the top to the oak and back down. It needs a proper rap stations once the upper corner goes. "TO INSANITY AND BEYOND!" 5.7ish- pro to #4 camalot We were pretty beat by then, so we headed out- on the way almost got shot (ricochet within 30-40’ of me) by some rednecks shooting into the area. I yelled out and the shooting stopped. Should have yelled earlier. Who knows which way they were aiming? Finished the day by grabbing some cold drinks from the store and working out moves on a new boulder near Pump Rock. Good day.

8/1/04- Solo recon trip and some bouldering. Was supposed to party with Matt E and Feral, but got done late and couldn’t bring myself to drive over just to come back in a couple hours. I think Feral may have gone. Since I didn’t hear from him, I made some plans to go solo. There is this one area I have always wanted to drive into and check it out. On the trip I saw, not one, but *** 2 *** bears. The first one was on the road and was hauling ass even though he was all of 3-4’ tall. Real black coat. The second was literally 30-40’ feet away, with a more dirty brown coat. I couldn’t tell if it was a cub or teen, so instead of waiting for mom, I shoed him off. Very cool to see 2 bears in the same day. Also saw some quail, a doe and her babies, and a buck as well and some type of raptor up high in the sky. Took the long drive back to the boulders, checked out this new one that is stellar, and tried to do some problems at Pump, but was just too worked over. My legs were stiff from not stretching and the multi mile hike.

7/17/2004-7/22/2004 Backpacking on JMT- brought shoes, but no luck. Possibilities on road into Lake Thomas Edison (visible from Rd) and Florence Lake for bouldering (near High Sierra Ranger office, etc.). On the South East Ridge of Mt. Hooper there were some pronounced faces with ‘eyebrow’ roofs and a prominent prow feature for wall climbing. Actually saw a big group of climbers coming out of the 7 Gables area.

? Did a day trip to Tuolumne Meadows with David S. Did a 5.7 “Slapstick”on Marmot Rock. Was up there way early with a morning start, so I stopped in at the store to see about finding Hope. A gal said she was at the store, so I went over there. She was super sick, but saw Dimitri B., Grant H again, and met some other folks while there. Talked climbing a bit and headed out to get racked before Dave showed up. We were up and thru the route in no time. The 5.7R section was the only heady part, with an old knifeblade for pro. We descended down the E shoulder on tricky slabs and gain the shoulder and hiked down on ledges and the gully. Pretty quick if we didn’t stop to check stuff out. But it would suk to blow it on that section. By the time we got down we were jawing about stuff and were pretty sun soaked that we decided it was time for beers and bouldering. Did a couple knobs problems and drank beer by the lake. Good day.

7/4/2004 weekend- Me and the chica did some mellow exploration and some bouldering around the Mammoth Lakes area. Did Travertine Hot Springs, Bodie, Catacombs, saw an owl, checked out Benton Crags after over a decade having done one route there, checked Granite Basin, and June Lake area, as well as cranked several solos at Donnell’s Vista, then sent the sit start to the center route on Pump Rock. Superb problem.

6/26/04 weekend- Sat did the FRA of “Window Pain” with Evan R. a chosstastic arch formation along the Hwy 108 corridor. Two pitches. Put in some bolts, but if the whole thing goes you’re a goner anyways. A timely and timeless (or not) classic. Finished the day working the Triple Cracks center route with no luck again. Someone stole the hangers and bolt shafts from the top rope anchor I put in. Strange.

The next day followed Feral Rat on the best route he’s ever put up. Had to hang at the top because it was still a bit dirty. But a fun line. The same day he put in an offwidth. “Inferiority Complex”-- good quality as well.

June Bouldering at Castle Rock- buggy, but cool in that the days are long so after my long commute I can still boulder after work. New traverse Evan showed me has me captivated.

5/29/2004 weekend- A terrific bouldering weekend- Dreamers, Rock Creek, Deadmans, Pollen Grains and June Lake. Found out what Sundog is.

5/17/2004- Erik Brat and I headed for the same place. Very much looking forward to the next day’s adventure. We had driven almost all the way in on Sat. Got up took a runny poop, then drank the coffee. Go figure. Did the approach by avoiding one treacherous move. But others still exist. Wiggled up onto the platform to blast the buttress. Easy ground right off with a #2 camalot in a hollow pocket/flake. A moderate traverse and I was into the main seam. The seam runs the full distance to the top of the wall. Though pinching down and discontinous in some parts it stays moderate most of the way and yields lots of nut placements on the lower 2/3rds. Getting in some gear I looked up, and hopes are crushed. Tis not the day for newness. Just quality. A Chouinard #5 stopper was laying in the crack. No big deal, maybe that was the piece they backed off with. It could be. Irregardless, we pushed on as if it were new. And it sure felt that way- just as I would run out of placements, I found that I could pop out little keystones and create bomber nut placements. This route really ate them up. Double sets for sure. Hybrid aliens might work well also. We brought the drill, and almost placed a bolt early on. I’m glad I didn’t. After some morning kinks were worked out I found a belay off left in an alcove with a nice ledge. The first pitch was roughly 130’, the second, and better pitch was more continuous and only went 100’. The last pitch though went the distance on 190’. The last pitch is sketch with a 5.7 move or two with no pro nearby, just a #1 camalot in a shallow pod below the feet a ways. Hard to tell if the move had been done before. Lichen grows back, moss multiplies, and pin scars don’t always show up. Well if no one has a name for it… the wind as it hits that arête corner, hits hard…

Wind Hammer 5.7R**(*) FRA- Rob Behrens and Erik B.

We still had daylight after pulling the raps, so we hiked around a bit and put in a bolt on another streak that looks well featured, but steeper.

5/8/04
After being rebuffed by a Carl’s Jr bathroom attendant posting a sign “closed for cleaning” I picked up ice and supplies in the Oakdale supermarket. I triumphantly returned later to walk past the sign with no fear of detergents or solvents to relieve myself. Not only was I peeing with a sense of urgency, I was also driving Hwy 108 in the same way. The goal: a sweet piece of Western Sierra granite; The Weeping Wall.

I picked up the guys (Evan, Sean and Rye) at the Strawberry Inn around 10:30 only a half hour late from traffic. They were looking pretty tired, so we opted to only drive half way in. A dusty flat spot with big red ants was home for the night. An early start of 7:15 had me packing and racking, but not the other guys, NOPE! After Danishes and coffee we headed off to our intended destination. Another 40-55min of driving and we landed at the trailhead only to find two nefarious and sun-soaked looking characters coming back from a “fishing” trip. I handed iced Sierra Nevada Pale Ales to Dingus and Brutus and a few minutes later we were off. Turns out later a broken window had to be done to get their car open. Keys.

A pleasant breeze cooled the air that was slowly warming up at this point in the morning. The casual uphill hike was a good warm up for the crux of the day, the treacherous approach. Exposed slabs with gravel, wet grass, biting manzanita, huge red ants, sliding pine needles and losing the trail once or twice. It was worth it for the climbing.

The slab only looked like it would be 300 feet. By the end of the day we would know it was ~400 feet. Racked and packed, I immediately started up to a great ledge after getting in a piece a few feet below me. The first bolt went in like butter. But the first bolt seemed needed by cutting a runout of 40’ into 25’ and probably making a grounder less likely on the first hard move of the route. Mostly the route would reveal itself to us as moderate climbing, but on occasion it would serve up something interesting. Some moves straight up provided more pro, and a due West traverse gained the next crack, but little for pro until you moved up. Got some in, and proceeded on casual 5.6 moves to a good spot for an anchor. The rock was basically immaculate. Two maybe three tiny flakes broke, but all the holds were nicely set on this pitch. Because we thought we would be coming back down this way, we placed rings for the rappel. 100’ rope stretch to ‘ground’. Evan and I continued up, while Sean and Rye, both previously injured types hung out on the first pitch. They toproped a bunch of variations from that set of anchors.

I offered the next pitch to Evan who had just joined me. He wasn’t keen on drilling and I was secretly excited to be leading the next pitch as it looked like a lot of fun. 5.5 moves on dioritic intrusions yielded a left to right traversing dike. I couldn’t pass it up after getting some psychological protection in off to the left. But it started getting steeper, AND more featured. Another, and last bolt, was placed to cut the run out in half again. A fall from there without a bolt would make for 100’ fall potential. Not real fun. The climbing was superb, and a few moves later I was able to access the lower of the two low angle corner systems. I realized after moving up a hidden pocket may have provided protection with some Lowe Tri cams. All in all it was great climbing. So much so, that I’m almost suspicious someone else may have done this route before. But there were no pins, no scarring, and no bolts on the line and there was a lot of face climbing. It’s quite possible, but no one had reported it to Brad and no one has posted up. Though I couldn’t blame them for not posting up. I’m keeping this place secret for awhile. Too good. Another rap anchor was placed. 190’ or so pitch.

Following the widening corner started with a chimney move, which I wasn’t expecting. Precariously smearing to avoid full chimney technique in shorts I accessed a steepening section. A thrilling and well featured traverse over some air had me stepping left and a 1/2” edge right on the lip of the corner I was stepping up and out of. With a slotted orange alien into a small pocket/crack I protected the water smoothed next moves. It eased for bit, but a bush and 5.10 looking slab blocked the way. Undeterred in an oddly euphoric way that only lack of water and too much sun can bring on I pushed through the hard move by avoiding it. Stepping right just a hair to the arête showed me a way around. Way more exposed, but easier than water polished stone. Two or three tip toe moves on decent edges (1/4-1/2” smedging) I could grab a rounded edge and pull up onto a ledge and get some more protection. 25 feet of finger and somewhat dirty hand jams had me coming up on ropes end. Time for the final anchor just below the rim of the cliff. Some 5.0 moves would put you at the base of the next cliff band another couple hundred feet back. But today’s jurisdiction ended here. The verdict; a beautiful climb that came together with relative ease. No injuries, no epics, just a full day, full of climbing and fun. “Tears of Joy” 5.6R*** on the Weeping Wall.

5/2/2004- SPH- Late morning start from The Gray Area. Met at Brad’s. Headed all the way down canyon to check out bouldering potential, crags, and low approach for Lost World. Possible at low water levels, but water was rising during the day. Got my hike on, but came back up to Potter’s to catch up with everyone else. Not feeling really motivated to climb in the warm sun since the garage sale yesterday cooked me. But I did follow the 3 bolt 10c on the formation with Pull my finger. Pimp4crimps lead in good style. We are both thinking it is more like 10a, b at the most. With everyone heading out early, we were done with this area and decided to try and get our Pump on at Pump Rock. Got some problems done drank a beer and headed back home to my sweetie.

4/25/2004- Pinns with Feral Rat and Erik B. Direct on Mono, Reg Route (LNF 1st pitch), TR on Hot Lava Lucy from step across, hard but fun. Feral went up and set up a TR on Ranger Bolts. TR’d that once with some success. Found a way to make the first bulge easier. Still pumpy.

4/3/2004- Castle sesh with Art B and part of the time with Yumi (sp?). Tired from free Touchstone comp the night before, but good day overall. Worked much of the egg.

3/20/04- Took Monday for a birthday party with fam up in Idaho. Bouldered with a local (OWC) who showed me a great little area right next to where we were staying called Tubbs Hill. Many short problems, but tons of fun. Two really great roofs and I only checked out 5 minute walking distance worth. On the way back on Monday I managed to stop at Minehaha for two easy boulder problems and one easy 5.0 solo on the main wall. Good rock quality.

3/13/2004-CRSP Lost Keys/ Moon Rock. Left side sit. Stand starts. Attempt traverse- no luck.

2/22/2004- A wet soggy muddy rainy day at Pinns putting in a new route. Well, I belayed while the tardos did the tough work of drilling the first two bolts in miserable conditions. The Old E helped pass the day and hit us pretty good. Gil got in the first one on stance- well done. Lane got in the 2nd bolt after leading up a heady section to a great stance. Possibly the third bolt he’s botched in total, but he’s getting better. ? The bolt isn’t bad, just isn’t great. Anyways, after that Erik took the redpoint lead for the meat of the wet and mud upper groove, and lead through using some micronuts. No anchor just sit way back there. I followed just to get some climbing in on an otherwise saturated climb and day. Overall pretty fun.

2/27/2004- Celebrating E’s bday we opted to finish the route Gil and I started on the 15th. With a good ledge, lots of good snack foods and libations we made a great party of it. I lead up Twinkle Toes in ultra wet conditions. Not too bad, but I really didn’t want to think too much about it. Thinking the worst for the upper section it appears to dry out fast then lower down on the face. I immediately set to work securing the second bolt. With things just a bit wet, I opted for hooks and a slung knob. So far so good. “Crap” I spewed out to Gil. “It’s gonna hold.” The hooking trial began, and nothing popped as I weighted it. Not wanting to place the 2nd bolt out of reach I really wasn’t in danger of hurting myself with Gil attentive on the belay, but it was nervous just the same. E, got in the 3rd bolt slight up and to the left on a great stance. The climbing eases significantly at this point. And from there Gil got in the starter hole on the 4th bolt, which I finished off after resting. Got in the 5th bolt on a decent stance and let E, get the redpoint for his bday. He climbed through no problem and I got some good pics of it.

3/5/2004- Today I was supposed to finish “Babies on the Ceiling” a project in the high peaks with Lane and the boyz, but came down with something so instead I’m back filling some trip reports. Good luck guys!

2/15/04- After visiting the SF zoo yesterday, scouting for potential boulder problems, on Sunday we headed down to the W. Face of Machete to finish “Redline.” It is roughly a 190’ pitch with only seven bolts. Mostly 5.6 and fairly solid rock compared to many other lines I’ve done down there. Near the top though is a 50’ runout on really easy ground, but it needs a bolt to cut the danger in half. After banging in the anchors, my left wrist was really bothering me. Today with advil it doesn’t feel much better. Redline only took half the day so the rest of the day Gilbert fiddled in a first bolt on the next project. At first a stance was attempted to drill from, but the angle was overhanging once you got your feet high enough to place it. Gil got a hook going after discovering a small incut edge. We worked out the next couple of moves, but didn’t have time enough for a second bolt. Apparently that responsibility lies with me. Especially since Erik S. flaked on us. Gonna have to have an intervention with that guy soon.

2/7/2004- Evan R., Mike D., and Erik S. and I went to W. Side Pinns, as is fashionable these days. Warmed up on Flumes Wall. Evan and Mike doing Kibbles and Bits to Rebecca’s Sailing in two pitches. I followed Erik on what we’re calling “Lichen to Lead” 5.6. This old route continues up the ramp like slab to the right of the main Flumes N.E. face. Erik lead it in good style with a crack of sun warming the ramp for a short period of time. Quite exhilarating really because of the nasty tiny bolts on it and Erik didn’t bring any gear with him. It takes some gear to be sure. But do it in 2 pitches, otherwise it would require some 60-80’ of simul climbing. After that we headed to the Gameshow. Evan redpointed the 10b “Came in Second” and I cleaned by climbing the 5.7 next to it. Quite strenuous to clean. This climb needs some anchors. After that, Erik had climbed past the crux on “Truth or Consequences” and I was able to work on that for while; I failed miserably on TR. But did manage to get the TR on “Vanna” a 10b.

1/25/2004- Today was a good day. Cold start with Evan R. everything was soaked from last night’s rains. In the search for something dry- Escape From Soledad 5.10a R also being on my hit list was prime. But with wet conditions, we opted for a TR. A quick jaunt up the easy backside route had me with 2 burns on the TR. The first burn it was cold and I couldn’t hold a match that I committed myself to. So popped off. Still need to get this route wired before the redpoint. The second burn was ok though with a bit of mistart. Could be just a temp thing too. Anyways, Jon C. met up with us to head to the Flume Formation. Evan, not having had been to the West Side before lead up Kibbles and Bits a 5.9. And Jon then did the extension up Rebecca’s Sailing 5.8, and Evan followed. All in good style. Typical for both these strong climbers. I was relaxing depumping and thought I might give Romper Room a go. It’s a new 5.10 that Jon put up with Bob Walton by free stance. Evan and Jon TR’d it clean- both wishing for warmer climes. (I’ve been on colder days a pinns before, so it seemed ok, but I only had a windshirt. Foolish. Gameshow area was in the sun, so we headed over.

I had good luck working some of the moves on Truth or Consequences the weekend before with Strom, but getting to the 4th clip is really throwing me. The same happened today. First I forgot to tape my fingers, so I lowered and pulled. Then back up but gassed at the 3rd clip. Though it was easy to there, relatively speaking. I went for a try moving up but took a nice soft lead fall of about 10-12’. Not bad, but I didn’t have it. Need to train for this puppy. Something in Clint’s notes says it being harder going to the right. So now I’m not sure if my beta is helpful. Oh well. Rapped and cleaned. Then Evan took a lead and hang on the 10b Came in Second. Crappy route with a worse anchor. Easy walk off though.

1/18/2004- Went with Strom to Pinns. Strom had many good lines I had already done on his list so mostly he lead.
13 bolt nine
To chimney pitch on left side of the Bad Man Mezzanine formation. (I lead) 5.4
Gary and Phyllis Headwall 10a (both of these two pitches lead to much traversing on the ledges across machete e.g. part of the West Face route and Tiburcio’s Ambush.

Then headed to Osiris formation
Escape From Soledad 5.10a
Romper Room 5.10a or b
Truth or Consequences (Strom started up and I tried taking some short hard falls)