2003
Summary
July 7th
Hearst SLO and SB- climbed solo the main easy crack on Gibralter Rock. Hot day to be soloing on south facing stuff.
July 14th and 15th SPH
July 21st bouldering with Jim at Pfieffers
July 26th SPH
8/3/03 Stinson
8/9/03 SPH – twisted ankle
end of August to Sequoia and Kings- no climbing
w/e 9/6 SPH- gals to RR
w/e 9/14 SPH AAC Weekend
9/19- SPH- Steve M. Stacie S. Jeff L. Katie Y. Steve and Emma from Boston - Gianelli Edges: Fun House, Green Acres, etc.
Highlights included Steve and Emma trying "Sneaker Pimps". TRs on both the left and right side of the Diamond Cutter. Katie Young hiding under a boulder. Some newly reported TRs on some grooves right of Hog Trough.
9/29- TM Unicorn
Solo trip. Great exposure. Old bolt. Good day.
10/5 TM with Jeff
10/12- Pinns with Clint and Chris B. Disco, Mono and Upper Crust - found old bolt trip
Hiked up to find Chris and Clint doing Broken Arrow.
10/13 and 10/14 Castle Bouldering with Evan and Gilbert
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6/29/03-Went to a wedding this weekend. Got polluted. Got hung over. Went climbing anyways. Needed water, Tylenol, and a coke to bring me back up. Tried for Goat rock with Sabrina and her sister and her aunt, but some guided class was cluster fuggin the whole wall with 4 ropes, when 2 would have worked. Walked back over to Indian rock (saw Evan, he was meeting up with the crew) and no one was to be seen. We all got a spin on the 5.8. The aunt loved it after a little perseverance. Sis did better than pinns last time, and Sabrina floated it. I asked her to take a simulated fall (whatever that means;) to show how the rope, etc. works. I solo’d up to move the anchors over and then TR’d the 10a. Been a while. Fun.
6/21/03- Left on Friday night with Fueco, bleary eye’d parked at Memorial Boulders for night’s rest. After our cell call to Sean I didn’t think he was going to show. He straight up lied, saying he was still at the house, so I unknowingly tried to coax an already packed and racked boulderer into getting into his car. Well, they Sean, Rye and Vince, all showed up a little later in the evening. The sun rose warm and the wetness on the tents and bags dried out fast. But we were not quite as quick. Brewed coffee, ate breakfast, thought about where to go. After the previous weekend’s fiasco we were pretty sold on getting to the higher ground. Namely, we wanted to get on top of Herring Creek Dome again for some ultra stellar bouldering. Once there we approached down from the top via some precarious 4th and easy 5th class slabs/edges. Was able to identify the anchors for the “Lakeview Arete.” A nice looking line.
We’d all (Sean and I and others not on this particular trip) been up there before having done a few problems each on our respective trips. This time after doing the approach from above, with the road entirely clear of snow this time there was chalk on the holds, lots of it. Someone had been up there without inviting me. How rude! It’s good to know someone is enjoying it at least. So we worked the usual moderate classics; cracks to patina, patina to patina, golden patina to golden patina, fins to fins to top outs. Wonderful stuff. A couple of problems are worthy of mention, the E. Face of the tall gendarme on the left side of the wall is OTD, the square edged block to it’s left has a left to right traverse that finishes on the E. side of the block, on the main wall, a line of smaller edges goes up between some other classics, and on the right side of the right wall is a left to right traverse finishing on a crack-pull-over. And last the “Iron Butterfly” on the small slab on the far right yields a “pop” type of maneuver.
After that we headed for a volcanic cliff with three cracks, a perfect hand, perfect fingers, and a seam-corner. The “Triple Cracks” received an anchor and a 5.9 face was traveled by Fueco after anchors went in. An undone arête remains to be climbed with its anchors. Completely burnt by mid evening we headed back to camp for some “hobo pie” which is some tasty meat concoction with bell peppers and whatever else you want to add cooked over an open fire on the coals. Vince was chief turner, and the meal was tasty. But before dinner, I stopped by Cascade Creek Campground (some potential here for some funness) to say hi to Brutus, Dingus and Tom. Over a beer we caught up on the days events. They succeeded on a new granite line, and the next day were headed for a watery adventure. Also, that same night saw Mikeclimbingdude and Kent at Pump Rocks. Quite the surprise to catch up with people we knew, but then again not so surprising. They came over and joined us for our campfire and we drank beer til we all passed out. Great cookies.
Sunday was a Strawberry Inn breakfast start with us heading to Pump Rock for
some shoulder wrenching fun. Caught up in time with Kent and Mike, who passed
on going into town, to see Kent pull the full ramp traverse. Estimated at V6,
the first ascent that we know of. Nice job K! “Kent’s Ramp.” After
getting our fill here we headed up canyon to the 8k boulders. Tired and bleary
eye’d once again we brewed coffee, but I was feelin it. I tried for some
new lines and got an arête pull over and some short lines and one slab
intricate move problem. The arête should receive the moniker “Doggy
Fizzle, Televizzle” because of the “izzles” we’ve been
adding to words all weekend. (It’s Snoop Dogg’s latest MTV show).
After some brush crashing I was done. Proffered to Mike that we head out and
we did. Got back in time to hug my sweetie and post up some pics on b.com.
6/14/03- Heading up for more of the same, good stuff that is. Got a hold of Sean and Mike the night before to plan on meet at Strawberry Inn. Get there right on time after grabbing a free fire permit from the Summit Ranger Station. The plan- bouldering. Headed to the new house sized boulder. A goodly elevation, but not a bad approach for what you get. Warmed up by repeating the “Port-a-bull-o.” Not really boulder problems, but more like short solos. Then started to work some possible lines. Added two more lines, one a variant to “Port-a-bull-o” the other a moderate water groove with some moss, but all in all another nice addition to the left of “Port-a-bull-o.”
After working some hard starts and some traverse moves with the crew, we followed some shade and finished up the project on the E. face just left of the tree. Sweet!!! “Bulls on Parade” V0+. Best line so far. Steep and juggy, traversing right once you are off the deck a bit. Finish on easy ground.
Headed for some more areas, but found out right away from some friendly forest service staff that the road to Pinecrest Peak was still closed by snow banks. It was. I found out the hard way. After getting antsy waiting for Sean, who made it through the snow bank, I decided to try. Not a good idea. Got highcentered. After much digging and leveraging and swearing, and having the batter die, Sean got around the truck and we rigged tubular webbing to pull me out. Got a jump for the battery from a helpful 4x4 driver. What a colossal waste of time. “More balls than brains” as my dad is known to say to me.
Tried to reach Rob’s Rocks. No go there either. Managed to finish the day off at Pump Rock after eating some. Got one of the up problems I hadn’t done in awhile. But couldn’t really get the low left to right traverse this time. Drank some brews and watched an old Jackie Chan Kung Fu movie on the DVD player. Sweet!!! Very well received idea to bring it.
On Sunday we headed up to Chipmunk Flat for some fun in the sun. Sean and Mike climbed the classics on Hummingbird while Jeff did a neat 5.7 approach pitch that I followed. We’re pretty sure this one has been done before. I went up a second pitch from a large ledge system to a right facing corner. Fun jams and moves and good rock and moderate climbing make me believe this one had been done before. In the meantime, probably call it “FA? Oh Schwartz?” Like a toyland, and who knows maybe someone named Schwartz did the FA. Ok, maybe it’s just me. Sean and Mike joined us after a bit and also climbed it. After rigging a rap station, we TRd the big slab to the right of this corner. Two TR variations were essentially done. One up the black streak on the left, the other starting at the bulge at the base 6’ right. The former going to the higher horn, the latter going to the lower horn. Both step right on the face and follow good features up and left. The left route joins the arête and reaches the jug, while the right hand line goes more direct via the left side of the big roof, via a powerful pinch to reach the jug.
Cooked by the sun, we headed for the MWT boulders. We all got some good pulls in, with Sean getting the gem SDS route “Broken.”
6/7&8/2003
Sat: An early start at 5:30, after a quick call to wake the drunken dead. On
the road to SPH. Had to do some recon work to see what roads were open. After
that we checked out a volcanic boulder I spied last season that looked to
be overhanging on two sides. It was. Amazing stuff. Volcanic matrix of cobblestones
in welded ash. Probably 25-30’ tall. I solo’d up one of the easiest
lines, but also very airy for the final traverse right and mantle up. Easy
at 5.5/6. Jeff did a corner system around right that finishes with some unusual
movement involving a hand jam and back step. Then we worked on a steeper
line but with a bad landing decided to move to a series of prominent knobs
on the other side of the rock following the shadows more or less. Fun moves.
Highball bouldering is stirring.
We headed for a new granite area I spied last season, but when we got there I had us completely lost. I couldn’t even find one area that was in the guidebook. We found some bouldering and two new crags, one had a long ow, and a tenuous face climb. But with all the hiking we were toast so we grabbed some dinner at the Strawberry Inn where a wedding reception was being held. Jeff was enamored with some of the lady guests. Camped at Memorial Boulder, drank a beer, read the latest climbing rags and packed for the next days adventure.
Sun: Z-cracks was the name of the game. Up in the Chipmunk Flat area (also called by some locals as “Deadman’s Creek.”) Short approach at elevation to the base of Hummingbird Buttress and 100’ of brush crash to reach the toe of the buttress. The sun was on the wall by 9ish. The first pitch is kind of junky, but easily tolerable. The first pitch ends at a huge ledge. Then the second pitch follows a series of flakes up and left, and then a narrow ramp right to a natural belay ledge. A 3.5 camalot is the best piece here. A horn can be slung, but the whole thing might eventually come out. I could see a bolt reinforcing this station in the future. I’ll try and contact Greg Barnes who put the route in. DO NOT BELAY IN THE CORNER OR UP AND RIGHT OF THE CORNER WHERE INDICATED in the topo. The third pitch follows the left leaning crack system through the steep section and via liebacking moves and at the traversing crack that has the most knobs on it, go right to a belay in a corner above the ledge with the bush. Again lieback moves exit the station for the fourth pitch and steps back right to a another large ledge. There are two ways to exit. The indicated crack is grungy and difficult. A natural exit in the right hand corner is cleaner. Traverse left across the large ledge 2nd to 4th class brushy to reach either of two trees. The rappel takes two ropes to reach the top of Hummingbird buttress. The first is a dead snag and will probably provide a clean rappel. We walked across to another living tree and rapped, but got the ropes snagged a couple times. But by pulling from the left side of the large bowl (as you face the wall) the ropes came free.
Back to the car after water and food. Dropped down to check out a forest service road for more potential. Found A LOT of bouldering potential. Finished the day with Pump Rock. Got the left to right traverse (on the left side) bottom moves linked, and got the finish move. Never was able to pull the first part together before. Just need to link it.
5/24-26/03-
Sat: Drove up early. Met Steve M. at the Strawberry Inn at 9am. Lot fewer folks
than I hoped for, but I told people about it a little late and there was
a lot of late season snow. But with that done, we headed down to Potters
since we’d been there 30minutes waiting for Brad and Joel and Greg.
Steve’s first trip to Potter’s though he’s climbed at the
Junior College and below the Steins and Donelle’s Vista before; so
he lead, good thing too. Cut Corner was an enjoyable warm up and the gang
showed up. Then on to Hell Nino and Hope on a Rope. On Hope I had to hang
a couple times after blowing the sequences, though interestingly the upper
section presented no problem for me this time. We were tired after Steve
leading everything in good style. I got a TR burn on Trad Fusion and GAUTT.
GAUTT stymied me a bit since you have to use the tree (Go Ahead Use The Tree).
Steve followed Brad on the squeeze chimney route called Flare Out. A desperate
outward semi falling move must be made to get out of the chimney to do the
technical arête crux. Joel gave that a burn after he and Greg did the
10a Worm Drive.
Sun: Was interesting. Went to the Steins after talking about the most classic 5 routes in the SPH area. Nibbler Arete was the goal. I’d been to the Steins before on two occasions but got us lost this time. Ended up going down the wrong gully and brush crashing through heinously thick undergrowth. The correct gully looks boulder choked, rather than brush choked. After going back up hill (with the brush pointing downhill) we decided against the 10b and did the oft repeated Root Canal. Isn’t it supposed to be Route Canal? Anyways, fun line. Afterwards Steve was ready to go and I was tired so we decided to drive around and check conditions. Legoland and other areas were accessible surprisingly.
Mon: With most folks gone for the day, Brad and I had a leisurely morning and headed back to Potter’s for some strong efforts. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do, but mentioned Mas Mass and Off the Couch to Brad as possible warm ups and redpoint project. Brad didn’t object. After leading up Mas Moss, and a clean but shakey TR on Off the Couch, I thought I would give it a go on lead. (I’d TR’d it before). A #3 or 4 bd stopper and an offset alien protected a couple moves to a very well positioned bolt. From a stance, I clipped and kept going up and right. Crystal grabbing and smearing and switching I managed the moves across to almost getting the jug, and the easier remainder of the climb. But “NOOooooooo” off I went. Slight spin and leftward pendulum fall had me coming right at Brad’s head. He doesn’t normally belay with a helmet, but after he explained that ‘You’re foot looked pretty big coming at my face’ he might just do that. He’s been really good about leading with a helmet. I should follow that example more often. Too many head injuries at Pinnacles this last season. A little shaken up I new I could give it another go after that 12’ fall. This time with Brad resituated and rope stretch gone I was confident but tired. Redid the moves, but was jittery with the retry. Got the moves though and had the jug in hand, but the crystals were literally falling apart under my grip and like ball bearings provided the rolling start the second fall needed. Less distance, but I was cooked. Each time was a different series of moves and I think I stayed too low. Brad did a TR run. Brad wanted to lead Whoa Baby. A Strom route not originally named by Strom. Without getting into details, Brad took some respectable whips at the crux. Then on the fourth and final redpoint attempt for the day, less than 6” from the top, he pulled on a flake and it broke sending him for another spill. Talk about frustrating. With the day being warm we took off to eat something and go for a 5 mile walk with the kids down the railroad grade from Lyons Reservoir to Brad and Vicky’s place.
5/16-5/18-Well I didn’t get to climb at Cal Domes, other than to scramble up to the base of some climbs right where the aqueduct meets the base of Hammer Dome. Sabrina was feeling the altitude after we drove up 88. I should drive up from Tiger Creek next time so we just hit the 4k without going up higher. Since I was in this phenomenally beautiful location I went for a run along the aqueduct on the downhill side so I didn’t get to see Wings and Stings except from the road. I think I spied out Gemini Cracks from the base, but wasn’t sure. There are a series of bolted lines in that area that looked sweet- climbing on knobs. Gotta get back here when it cools down again.
Went over to try and find Sergeant Rock, but didn’t find it so I walked the aqueduct to the deer bridge by Silver Streak Slab.
Only saw one potential climber car. That was on Friday day.
We took Sat and drove up toward Grizzly Dome above Oroville. Neat dome on
the Feather River. Mostly bolted slab climbing. Didn’t get to climb here.
Tried to drive up to Quincy and back over toward Big Bald Rock and Bald Rock
Dome on 162, but the road was closed so we drove back down the way we came
and went back up to Big Bald Rock. At the picnic area there is some sweet bouldering
on decomposing granite. Nice arêtes…http://www.0friction.com/pix/zero_friction_pic_1637.jpg
Today/Sunday we decided to head down and see where Cosumnes River Gorge climbs
are located. Big dome there and lots of TRing (lots of TR bolted anchors make
for easy and fast set ups). Getting hot during the day here.
5/12/2003- Brief trail run. Castle for bouldering. Afternoon sesh. Saw Rye. I made Feeble attempt on Duct Tape. Magoo Circuit.
5/10/2003- Castle for bouldering. Big group. Got Beak Mantle in good position.
5/4/03-While on the West Side (some sprinkles today) we did the Little Richard Variation of Big Nixon to warm up 5.7. Lane and I both lead it. While waiting for Gilbert to finish following himon it, I solo’d the face that starts 20’ to the right of it, just left of the short descent slab and joins LR at the right trending ramp. As good a line as Little Richard with clean rock. Some protection can be found in some pockets, but there would be a barren spot in the middle to move through. Sm to #3 camalot. Probably 5.5. Could use a bolt or two, thus making a distinct line from Big Nixon the direct var. "Watergate." We looked at Clint's rebolting work on Hummingbird. Nice.We went over to Machete base area. While following the guys on Twinkle Toes I TR’d the face to the right of Twinkle Toes crack/face itself. Very clean, and very easy. Definitely climbed before me. If you set some gear high in the crack before traversing left to the anchorsthen this is a separate TR line. 5.4.
G. lead up the 13x route and enjoyed its well protected moves. I could understand
this seeing how he is going to be a new father soon. We then went over to Flumes
Wall, E. Face. Knocked off Kibbles and Bits, Jumangi, Rebecca's Sailing (3
stars IMHO), and the new route 5.8ish. It is a superb route (3 stars for its
climbing and rock quality) with 5 bolts and a strange place for a, hard to
pull, fixe ring anchor station up high on the right. The anchor position is
trampling a small grassy area. The rating is not any harder than Rebecca's
Sailing, just more consistent rather than a single bulge. On the way out checked
out The Grotto running with water, then we solo’d Curvaceous and Rumplestiltskin.
Jeff Gilbert onsight solo’d Rumple and both Jeffs felt this was not harder
than 5.9, and definitely not 10a. I am tending to agree even though I was shakey
on it the first time I did it.
4/26/03-First it was a planned for trip to Table Mtn and Sonora exploration. Then it was working on the project at Pinns. Then at the last it changed and turned into exploring Auburn Limestone. Rumors and posts on the web (later to be confirmed) about surveillance cameras, rangers to chase climbers out and threatened confiscation of gear presumably because of some nut job who decided to emulate Dan Osman’s rope jumps in the canyon had us worried. We stealthed in making sure no ropes or gear was exposed on our packs. No sooner had we walked a ¼ mile when we saw the authorities. I said hi, Lane left a deposit in the nearby water closet, and with a wave of the ranger’s hand we continued on our way.
Recent rains had left most of the rock seeping. Later I learned that limestone can be really friable when wet. Next time we won’t go in right after a rain. Aside from the friable nature of the rock, pockets were wet and slimy. All in all we had a blast. Starting on a less than stellar 5.7 named “Community Chest.” Oddly placed bolts and some loose small blocks had us second guessing our need to be there. But with the two 5.9s to the right being steeper and better rock quality, we warmed to the place as the sun continued to dry the rock further. A short 10a face “Short Term Memory” and a right facing corner “Sneaky” at 10b were also next to be had for the onsight by me (w/beta on one and a long reach through the crux on the other) and redpointed or worked by Lane. Sneaky turns out to “sneakily” step over onto the 10a to escape at the top.
Slipping over the the “Scale” wall, which looks like someone took a scaler to it, was next. I got on M&M right away for fear that we might be chased off and I wouldn’t get a chance to come back to it. It turned out to be really good as indicated, with the first bolt being a little high for a 5.8 leader. We both then bouldered out the moves on the 10b to the left for the onsights, and knocked out the 5.7 “Three Fingered Salute.” I got on the still wet 5.9 to its right and took my first fall of the day on lead. Slimy, muddy, and wet it left me hanging to figure out an alternative move to the right instead of straight on. Lane not feeling the line, understandably so, didn’t bother and let me try another one “Landslide” 5.8. Huge loose blocks, gravely ledges and wet moves, I backed off the third bolt pulling my draws using the poot sling trick.
The sun had dried out the right side of Horseshoe Canyon so Lane and I both onsighted the allegedly 11a Vaca-Villain. A good line that is well protected with good moves, but not 11a. More like 10b. Then we both did the 10b, onsight, next to it. The 10b on the right had these amazing flat edges all the way that sapped the strength. From its anchors you can drop down and TR the 11d on the right. I tried to work out those moves, but had quite a bit of trouble down low. Above I snapped a hold (limestone being more friable when wet). It may be a bit harder now. I yarded up on the rope and finished the easier section above and cleaned and we left with daylight to spare.
Grabbing a beer in town, we made a call to see about dinner in Sacto with Lane’s sis, and amended the topo, but blasted for some food when sis was still at a party. On the way to Del Taco we figured we had enough daylight to check on a bouldering area in Vacaville called the Nut Tree Boulders. Superb volcanic bouldering in a cow pie strewn hillside in a designated open space was the name of the game with the light fading fast. We cranked off in rapid succession a number of easy problems. The highlight of which for me was a SDS at the Stonewall boulder. The next day I was feeling tired and muscle-sore.
4/19/03- Met up with Clint and Bruce and Henry in the parking lot (later start than anticipated for me and Jeff Lane. I slept through my alarm). Clint as per his dedicated self was going to work on rebolting on M-direct and Bruce and Henry doing some exploring and re-bolting at the north end of the HP. Lane and I were going up to finish "Operation Pinnacles Freedom" which wasn't actually getting much freer. After my non-cardio ass got up to the streak I got to go first since last time Jeff put in the high point second bolt from stance (the first I did from hooks). I went up and reconned the moves and got higher than last time' recon, but not what I wanted for hooking since a pop meant falling on the low angle part below, so I tested it below the last bolt with some slings. Hook was ok. Went back up but realized I couldn't hang off it without pulling it to the right which is where the decent rock was. Hmmm? Tried to just stance it, but no go. Too tired on the right calf despite a good foot. Jeff gives it a run and several taps in a different spot after concurring with my assessment. Another set of taps and up and down and up and down and up and down to the high point. 2pm and no bolt, and warm sun sapping us. We blow it off and head for Train Spotting. The rock in this area has us fired up. We immediately go up to the top deciding that at least we can do some community service by putting in anchors for TS to do some rebolting on the next trip. The tree 20' back is small and could be questionable and doesn't need the abuse.
The bolts go in with little trouble. Great "stance" sitting on my
butt putting it in. We rap in and I just want to climb so I give the line to
the right of TS a run. Quality rock just like TS. With minor scrubbing I waltz
it to the top with yet again another dramatic bulge at the top finish. I've
seen most of the climb before after having done TS twice once for the onsight
lead and again on TR to follow Lane's lead. After the TR I rap down and Jeff
is fired for starting a better line on a route we can get done (or so we think).
He cruises up to the first ledge where there is a great stance but he doesn't
really get the full benefit because it is partly hidden under the leaves of
the nearby tree. It's getting late and we think the park closes at 7. It doesn't.
More on that later. I go up for the second bolt. Realizing from the previous
efforts that there are plenty of knobs for hooking and it's quality rock I
climb unhesitatingly to the next hook stance. Pop on a good on, back it up
with a so so one, then Sling a beautimous knob and notice a nut placement behind
a large right facing knob. However, I didn't bring any nuts up with me. Can
lane throw 40' straight up??? Hmmm? With some brilliant improvisation I make
my drill stance bomb proof by threading a flat leeper into the perceived nut
placement. It lodges well, and could be a leadable piece but I'm committed
to solid pro on this otherwise quality line. It takes maybe 30 minutes and
I hammer it home and check the time. We think it's late so we bail. I eat my
orange on the way down. On the way down we meet up with this nice lovely young
lady that took Lane's picture on the first belay and give his email to her.
I take off figuring our hero will take the time to walk slowly with these ladies,
but he injured himself by landing on his ass from the belay scramble. We make
the parking lot with lots of light and Lane checks the park hours. 8pm the
park closes. Damn! We could have got another bolt in. Oh well. Lanes hurt and
I need some horchata. Off to the great Mexican restaurant in Soledad. A good
time in the afternoon makes up for the disappointing efforts in the AM. Lane
thinks his injury is karma for a poor effort on the first project. Ah, just
need to strengthen our calf muscles and we're golden. The second project tentatively
is named "Babies on the ceiling" following the Train Spotting theme.