1/6/02 or 1/7 Pinns with DES
Strom and I went to the W. Side of Pinns. Slow start cuz Strom slept through his alarm. The idea was to go to Pinns hook up with Matt E. and Stacie maybe start a new project and do a couple climbs. Matt flaked citing the next day rain and late wake up. We hiked up the Balconies and Strom got an anchor bolt on the ledge where the new project starts. Thus, I was then and only then willing to belay in the 'kill zone.' The 'kill zone' being that area where loose choss flys off of a new route when the FA author starts pulling knobs that looked good originally. Strom eventually cleaned and placed the first bolt a little ways up and worked out a few more moves beyond that. Time was running late so we hustled over to the Knifeblade Direct route. This would be fun if it wasn't loose and mossy and had some PO at the base. It goes to the notch between the main balconies face and the separate knifeblade formation. I lead across the final and original pitch of Knifeblade. 2 bolts and good position with a fair amount of black lichen on the N. side of the blade. From the anchors at the end of the KB a two rope rappel will get you to a mid way anchor, from that rap 90' down to the ground of the approach pitch to "Stiletto." The first pitch of that looks like garbage, but it's upper pitch looks great. (You rap from KB right over the top of Stiletto).
1/12/2002 Pinns
Dave S. and Strom bailed on me. Dave citing sickness and Strom citing his recent Thursday trip to the Yaks wall where he was inundated with ticks. Apparently, the moderate temps and extra moisture has made for good tick weather. Turns out Jim's exhortation to Strom a week before that trip was right, "Good tick conditions." So it was up to the flake (see above trip report) Matt E. to catch a belay from. I knew he would show when I called him 7am and he was raring to go and I still sounded like a dying dog. We met at CJs in Soledad, got gas, and headed up. The idea was to do a few classics, since Matt hadn't been to the W. Side much. Got to the parking lot and started hiking after my morning constitutional at the always clean W. Side bathrooms (thanks NPS!).
It was still chilly so we opted to stay in the sun on Passion Play. In taking pictures I discovered a new set of anchors to the left of Passion Play's anchors above an easy grey waterstreak. I took the time to topo the wall an solo the new TR line. A nice beginners line. Matt lead Passion Play and Stacie followed. Two bad bolts that need to be replaced exist on that line. We proceeded to the cut off for the trail to Destiny and noticed that it was abnormally quiet for such a good-weather day. Got to the base of Destiny and Matt raced up, I followed wanting to warm up and Stacie romped right up on TR after that. A 200' rope makes for an easy TR.
In the meantime a couple started up Twinkle Toes, so we opted for Alias Bandit Bench. Again, another line with some bad bolts. I lead, Stacie followed and Matt soloed most of the way up grabbing a rope near the top. We rapped down and I recommended a recently (re)discovered bolted line under the anchors[ Identity Theft Bandit Bench, 5.8]. (This could be the alternate start mentioned in the Rubine 2nd edition book.) Stacie lead. Her first lead. Bolts are every 4 feet leading us to believe it used to be an old aid line. Matt followed and I soloed a line to the right of that that goes into the tree branches more directly. It had one old 1/4" bolt above the hard section. One could protect this with tying off the tree branches and a flared #2 camalot. If one follows the natural holds it slightly overlaps with the former line. [Fake ID, 5.7]
After that we did a second pitch going up and around the Bad Man Mezzanine Roof, passing 3 bolts on good rock 5.4. Two of the bolts are bad. Then rapped down the Twinkle Toes 2nd pitch anchors to the base of Bandits in Bondage. Matt wanted to lead that and did really well getting to the crux, but spent too much time making sure of the holds and pumped. A little puzzling out and he had it. I followed with 2 falls (hang and fall being equivalent in my book). We rapped and tried to head over to do something on Gameshow, but Matt couldn't rap in to the anchors on the Gameshow and I didn't want to lead Came in Second after getting to the second bolt. I weigh quite a bit more than Stacei who offered to belay and didn't want to send her flying. Matt got back to base and was going to lead Came in Second, but a friendly ranger politely reminded what time it was. So we decided to wrap it up. This particular ranger has always been polite and friendly and we noted how we respected that aspect of the current staff of Pinnacles.
2/2/02 Pinns
I've been down sick for a couple weeks so I was looking forward to kickin some ass today. I tried to get even numbers to go down there, but Gilbert was still out. We've been bouldering at his place lately, which has acted as a substitute to Castle in this rain and cold weather.
David S. brought a guy, Jeff from the E. Coast, he met at the gym and who drove. Matt E. and Stacie met us down there. We warmed up on Portent (Dave lead, Jeff and I followed). By then Matt and Stacie showed up and I convinced Matt to do Between a rock and a hardplace 11a. He had not trouble, but then I got on it and had a terrible time. Almost blew the first few moves and yowled at Matt to take up rope. Got through that and the loose stuff to get to the first crux, where I promptly flailed. I may have psyched myself out of the crux move. I thought I could see it, but couldn't hang on long enough to pull it and then have enough for the upper crux too??? That wasn't going happen so I got Dave to switch and I followed Jeff on The Wet Kiss. Still completely pumped I just barely got through that. Dave got through the 11a with some hangs. The crowds showed up and we bailed to the Monolith since no one was there.
Matt, the ropegun, lead Cantaloupe death 10c and we all followed it. Some with more trouble than others, but I was able to redeem myself somewhat by TR with no falls after the earlier flail. Jeff lead the regular route to TR feed the beast. Matt got the TR. I tried but couldn't make the moves. Jeff and David worked it out with some hangs. Yet again the crowds followed.
We trapesed to Upper Crust, by this time I had relegated myself to TRing only. But I followed Matt on the 10a, 10b, and 10c (only the 10c with falls). Which is better than I had done on those before on lead or TR. Jeff lead the 8 and 9 in there. All in all I think he had a good time pushing on climbs.
2/7/02- Night at gym. V0s V1s V2s and working V3-4. 2/8/02- Night at Jeff G's bouldering wall in the garage. Had Sean and Strom (and two of Sean's friends) for a good session.
2/9/02 Pinns
Good day at Pinns. Erik B. and I got there first (and first overall, followed by Mike A. and Charlie). After quickly talking about the site with Mike A, Erik and I went straight to Monolith. I lead the direct E. face 5.6 to warm up. Erik lead "Terranean Tango" i.e. starting from the boulders and stepping right. 10a. After following cleanly, I thought about leading Cantaloupe Death. I TR'd it last weekend clean and had been thinking about it at work. It could be done, despites my febile mind and body. In all the years of climbing at Pinns, I've never lead it, so this would be a serious treat to get such a classic line. A little nervous I do the chasm-ish step-across. No problem, since I've been on it before. But I stilled need to pull onto the wall. With calm deliberation I ease onto the starting jugs. Set the feet. And look up and pop to the flat-edged knob for the right and twist in and pop up to the knobs in the cleft above the first bolt (where I think an original aid line might have gone, I'll have to check with Clint). Unfortunately I grab a subsidiary knob and grab the good knob with my right. I quickly switch blowing a little too much energy. I know I gotta move now. Left hand up to good edge sharp knob to lay away on and clip the second bolt. Moving up, the rock is really cold and time is ticking. 3rd bolt and so on. Near the top things are steep and I'm gassing. But I know I have to get it. I know it can be done. I just keep going, allowing myself the luxury of knowing that if I fall my belayer will catch me on bomber glue-in bolts. So I bust it out and go til my hands feel like they are in surgical gloves filled with ice water trying to grab a micro edge. I hit the rim jug with a bit of long reach and move right to finish it out. I'm soooo gazed! Grab the next few knobs over the rim anyway to see what happens. Mind you, I'm still a believer it can be done at this point. Realizing I can't see my feet going over the lip I decide to high step onto the rim jug. I wobble a little, but get the foot set, but I need to pull up onto it. I got my hands on big, quality holds. My hands are being pried open by the fiercest of can-openers…lactic acid. With fingers slowly widening to an open palm position, I flip the hand around and back-hand the knob with the left. THAT'S IT! I've got it. Pull with the abs and back handed grip and I can make it to a standing resting position next to the anchors and the climb is done. NICE! A long anticipated climb sent with all the flavor I would expect. I've done harder, but today is a flash back to when I first cracked the 10c barrier in my misspent youth. An excellent climb. 3 stars, despite the guidebook's single star.
With that safely done, I turn to belaying others. But the highlight of the day is Matt E. sending Feed the beast on his 2nd try of the day, 3rd ever try. He's climbing strong and will reach his secret goal, ok maybe not so secret. But he's having fun with it now. That's really cool to see. Brad gives it 2 tries after TR ing it. I give it a run with 2 falls. I've got a pretty good sequence, but it still doesn't feel as good as when I first did the TR onsight to the lip back in the early 90s. But soon. I'd like to lead it. Erik works it on TR and has trouble with the crux, but he's psyched for the climb and gives it a couple more shots.
After that I'm spent, but after Erik and Matt get Subterranean Tango, and large crowds move in, Matt E Stacie and I head to Disco wall. Erik and Brad TR Hawaiian Noises. I mention "Racing Stripes" as a route Doug L. mentioned to me and I tried. Matt was psyched after we clarified where Melvin was in relation to it. Matt E lead Racing Stripes with no trouble and Stacie followed after I begged out of any more climbing. Stacie learned to clean really stuck stoppers today. As she finished the climb Matt talks me into something else, so Erik and I TR "Labor of Love" 11a. I'm gassed and can't get to the horizontal shelf hold after the main knobs down low and give up the ghost for the day perfectly content. Erik beats himself silly as well. In the mean time Matt has worked Melvin bolt to bolt in an effort to maximize his day. After rapping off he joins us for a run on "Labor." He takes a TR fall at the end of the day, but jumps back on and finishes the TR. Another good day at the Pinns. Can't wait to beat myself up there tomorrow.
2/10/02 Pinns Jeff L, Jeff G. Dave S.
Got down to Pinns early, but there were many cars already there. Turns out a fair number of hikers or birders come down earlier than climbers. Went straight to the Monolith. There was some indecision about what to start on. Either try the Frog and do Clint's 3 star 10a and some other stuff or stay where we were and give those a go. I decided to give 'Terranean Tango' a go since I was just on it yesterday. 10a. Brad cleaned. Dave S, Jeff L. and Jeff G went to do the regular route to try and warm up as well. The sun just started to creep down the face as I got ready. Hopped on and sent it with little or no pump. That would soon change as we went over to Feed the Beast. 11c*** The guys had set a TR on their way up and were getting ready as I rolled up. Not quite sure I could do it, but with beta from yesterday, I floated the entire route on TR, EXCEPT the last move clearing the lip. I thought I had it. But in any event I now have a better sequence to finish on. Dave S got up it a couple times as did Jeff L. Jeff G was immeasurably pleased at having got all the technical moves down while working it. We are all thinking we are going to lead it. The question is when?
The day was warm and we were almost ready to leave at that point, but felt it would be a waste to leave after only two routes. Dave S wanted Ali Baba. So we headed up there and waited for some folks to get off the climb by TR-ing the E face of TR rock. A pleasant and mostly clean line ascends that face start around the corner to the right of the base. Jeff and Jeff and I TR'd the line and Dave S got ready to lead Ali Baba. Since the other goons wanted to save the climb for the onsight ascent I had to belay and clean since I'd been on the route before, years ago. Dave sent it with little or no effort, but he'd been on it before, but couldn't remember much about it. I cleaned with a little more exertion than I remembered from last time I did it. I want to lead that one as well. That was the end of the day for us after getting baked by the sun in February. We left early. Headed for Super T and some beers and Jeff G's place.
We got back to his place and were ready to bail for home when he offered some more beers. One thing lead to another and we were bouldering on the bouldering wall in minutes. Jeff L was psyched for the wall as he hadn't seen it before. My right arm started to hurt (this despite having taken an 800mg dose of Ibuprofin earlier) after Feed the Beast. So I left. Dave had his camcorder with us all day, so hopefully we can see some of that soon. I want to see how bad I climb. I've only seen myself on one climb before with a camcorder.
2/16/2002 Kernville Crag Jeff L and Denise
Finally a trip with something unique happening. It started out normal enough. Denise mentioned climbing on Dome rock and doing some Southern Sierra climbing where it would be dryer and warmer than Josh, or at least that's what the guidebook said. We planned on doing some climbs out of the Needles guidebook (but not on the needles proper cuz that would be closed). So Denise had been there before and I figured she knew her shit, and I didn't ask too many questions. Left the gray area early on Friday afternoon and packed and blasted with Denise, Jeff L. and Myself in Denise's car. After driving down 5 and into the late night it turns out the road we were taking was closed. Thanks to some colorful locals they directed us down and out to Bakersfield and up to Lake Isabella, but we weren't having any of that. We tried another canyon. Low an behold that road was closed also. So we tossed down the bags and crashed there in a turn out on the side of the road. Rising early and trying to salvage what is left of our misguided direction finding, we immediately head out and down and around to Bakersfield. On the way scored a good buffet.
We arrived in Kernville late morning, time ticking. Traffic slows and we can't figure out why. Hooting and carnival music begin to infiltrate the car windows with the all the signs of a hickville parade. Ok, maybe that's too fast a judgment, but we had to detour around it since it took up the whole highway for several blocks. Like a bad episode of the twilight zone we got lost in the neighborhoods trying to find the rest of the detour… signage being rather poor and people parking cars everywhere. Then it hits us, we are on the wrong side of the River. Fuck! Backtrack we go into the mess again. Finally we see safety cones. But it isn't clear where to go, so we flag down a local sheriff. We figure he must know what is going on and how to bypass this. But when we ask him "Excuse us, how do we get out of Kernville" he starts laughing at us. Stupid city folk he must be thinking. He's got no clue though, he's almost as lost. We head straight for the cones and they curve onto the highway again and we're back on track. We decide to stop at the first rock we find.
Kernville rock is easily approachable and has high quality granite. But by this time it is early afternoon and climbing almost seems a waste since we won't get much done. But we hike up to the base. I'm bummed, so I bow out of the lead of this 5.5. corner. I need time to think and gel. Denise starts to get thinking and she decides to lead the corner. As she starts up I decide to join them on top with a solo of a nearby climb "Claustrophobia Crack" 5.4. It's a three star route at a moderate level. An exposed friction move gains a ledge under a perfectly square cut offwidth, but as the name implies you avoid the crack initially. It leads to clean crack and then a squeeze chimney. Not grunt size, but definitely not ass to toe size. Fortunately this little cell of a chimney has a crack in the back and low angle ramp to put your hands and feet in. Then on top of that you can reach out and grab the arête and shimmy up the thing. Classic!!! This then leads to an exit roof and some nice finger crack. I get to the belay and look over and Denise has decided to leave the route to Jeff after deciding that she is not comfortable leading on my rack. Jeff comes up after some grunts (as his usual style) and proclaims it a good route. It looks laser cut. But both Denise and Jeff agree that it is old school 5.5. No single move harder than 5.5, but every single move is 5.5. I solo and downclimb the last face pitch and Denise comes up and we rap down.
On the rap we can't help but want to get on "Initiation Crack" Every inch of 10d. Jeff and I both throw ourselves at it trying to get another piece in higher and lead it in moderately respectable style, but no luck. We're beat and the knuckles hurt. With the light fading we run up a 5.8 bolted friction climb with some interesting wavey features.
We have dinner with the Acapulco burritos and set down in a forest service area that several others are camped at. No fee, so were down. Trouble is the techno rave party and abusive boyfriends keep us up. Then the rain starts in. The storm we hoped to avoid has arrived. The next morning into town for breakfast and plastic bags to throw the tents into. The storm doesn't lighten up so we head out and around even further to avoid the storm by trying to find Heller Rocks. To shorten the story we never find heller, but do come up with a granite boulder field within easy walking distance with some stellar boulders on it. We start bouldering and no sooner am I pulling the mantle exit when the rain starts coming in. Screw it, we decide to head for some bouldering, sans crash pad, and go to Wagon Wheel. This place would be a bouldering Mecca if it weren't for the OHVs. Thousands of boulders stretched on a hillside a couple miles square. Edging is the name of the game, but it starts getting cold and windy fast. Jeff and Denise work a short bolted route and I amble off finding classic problem after classic problem. Picture josh blackened patinaed finish interspersed with diorite knobs and golden stretches of granite lit by the setting sun.
All in all a good trip, if not a little delayed on where the real climbing was.
2/23/02 Pinns E. Side ith Erik B and Howard L.
I've got myself deluded into thinking I can lead Feed the Beast, so I warm up on Terranean Tango 10a and I feel good. After Howard follows, all moany from not having been on real rock in some time, I think I'll try Feed. After watching everyone work it so much (Brad's RP attempts, etc.) I'm psyched, but Howards 9.8 mm rope is not confidence inspiring for my large frame. I clip the first bolt no worries, but chicken on the second clip. Taking a short fall, the rope holds and so does Howard, but I pull him up and I'm shook. That's that. We met Karl A. while on Terranean, and he is down for a trial on feed, so he gets it with a fall and I think one rest, but sets up a TR and we camp there for most of the day. We attempt the first moves on Black Dagger by stick clipping the first bolt. I can get each move independently, but it's not over til you get past the 2nd, which we can't get to clip. So i go around the top, scouting a potential line in the process and clean our one bolt. Next we go down and let Erik lead Racing Stripes 10a. Super T to polish the day off.
2/24/2002 Pinns BY, DS, Jeff G.
An early morning arrival in Hollister gets slowed by having to wait for Brad at Jerry's Diner in Hollister, but I like climbing with the old codger, so I ha agreed to finish the driving for him and let Dave and Jeff head to the parking area since it looks like we'll have to wait longer than expected otherwise. Once we arrive, we immediately head for Monolith. I need to recoup my previous week's lost energies. So I jump on Subterranean Tango 11a. With its bouldery start, I hesitate but manage to stay on long enough to clip the second bolt and head up through the, now familiar territory of, terranean part of the route. Brad tries for the redpoint attempt, again, on Feed the Beast 11c. Within inches. Though I can't remember which weekend he tried and took a 15 footer trying to clip at his waist, he at some point did, then the next attempt literally has the finishing big hold above the lip in hand and still pops. I yell out "NOOOooooooooooooooo" as he pops. I'm pent up and want him to pull the route, but that's the last attempt he has for the day( on a later trip he gets it) I get the TR with 2 hangs. The guys take turns on it as well. After which Dave and Jeff do NE Corner on Mono and the Piton Traverse, while Brad and I head for Ali Baba. I TR'd it with Dave and had followed it before, but never lead it. I lead it with no real incident and enjoy the moves. The day is short and Brad's turn to lead, so we head over to "Half Dollar Dihedaral" Don't ask. It's a Des route. Strangely after the crap is bypassed there are some nice sections to it, but rope drag requires us to do the line in two pitches. 5.8 face moves are the brunt of the harder stuff. Then on the walk off we both try to solo this 5.6 crack thing on the end of the cliff. Very visible from the trail, it seems a simple move. But it stymies us both and we judge that a rope would be safer on doing a crunched up extension to a jug on Pinnacles rock.
3/9/02 Table Mountain:
A great trip to Table Mountain on Saturday. Due to the fact the NPS has instituted a MANDATORY shuttle system at Pinns, I opted for a boycott of the area. A good choice since it appeared that the SPHFA crew was going to be there also. Dave H., Dave C., Joan, and the famous Noel of the route "If not for Noel" at 2nd Quarry, Brad Y besides myself and Dave S were going to Table Mtn. I picked up Dave S. a little late and we headed for the hills. Dave, as usual, having tied a few on the night before didn't get much sleep and snoozed on the way up. Upon driving up to the first gate lo and behold Dave H was already there meeting Joan for the first time. He recognized me and we discussed where we were planning on heading. Far Side and Gold Wall. Grabbing breakfast and the late start I think put us a little behind since Brad was already up on the mesa rim with Katie and Doug L. when we started hiking in. The trail has really been developed near the top where before it was a bit of climber's trail slog. A local Dr. developed it as a public access trail for the beautiful flowers on the mesa. Absolutely beautiful!!! A carpet of yellow flowers interspersed with rock, almost like a high alpine meadow.
Upon dropping into the Far Side I immediately remembered the Bovine routes on the far right side of this wall. They were hard. This area has seen some tremendous development since the last time I was there in 98?? In any event, we got the Senior Wall. Everyone wanted to warm up, so we took turns crowding the belay on "Depends" and "Assisted Living." Depends is still a little dirty with plant life, but will make a good warm up for cold winter days. Use slings for the 2nd and/or 3rd clips. Assisted living is better as is Senior Citizen. The base of these lines is littered with the block that got trundled from Depends. A good reason to give pause and the reason why rap bolting is an accepted practice here.
After those lines were lead by myself and Dave S (and a few others in the crew), we moved left and got on a line Dave C. said was really good. I agree. The second best line of the day. "Fat Don't Fly" And the name is true, since I didn't fly, I just hung on the last two bolts for a couple rests. I really haven't been on the steep stuff enough. No endurance. Thought it may be true that if you believe you are strong, you are strong, the converse is also true, if you believe you are weak, you are weak. After that, I lowered and cleaned and Dave S. lead the line to left going to the same anchors with some hangs. Senior Moment 5.10 a/b. I'm sure Dave S. would agree that we needed to get used to climbing on this rock. It was Dave's first time there and only my second for that side. I didn't even climb in the Grotto last year, but maybe once. After thoroughly convincing ourselves that this rock is very much hard to onsight due to the hidden nature of some holds, the multiple side pulls, and various bulges and generally steep nature of the rock, we cruised over to a line that Dave C. had lead up. "Swine and Cheese" 10d/11a on the far right side where the Bovine routes are. Two distinct cruxes, with the lower one being harder in my estimation. I was able to TR it with one fall, and Dave S. I think also got it on TR with two falls. This was the best line of the day because it made you think and was not merely a jug haul. This makes the 4th bovine related 10d over there. A good day finished off with a Sierra Nevada and a beautiful sunset.
3/23 thru 3/31 Josh
Spring Break Josh Trip March 2002
A wonderful trip!
3/23- Pulled into LA to stop by a friends, but he wasn't home. So we went to Mom's out in Riverside Co. Slept and drove into to Josh the next morning.
3/24- Met Uncle Bob (age 62, keep that in mind!) at Intersection rock. Checked the bulletin board and posted messages for people that actually never made it down. First climb of the trip I pick a sand bag. The Wall in Hidden Valley Campground, Center, did the following:
1. Laid Back 5.8- Got into the crux and had to lower on a piece. Turns out it's 5.9 and steep.
2. Got it on TR
3. CFMF 5.8 TRNF
4. Wall Flower 10a, one bolt and a horizontal for pro, a mantle in between for redemption from backing off the 5.8.
5. Solo-arium 5.7 TRNF
Sabrina and Bob did well working the entry moves into CFMF. VERY HARD moves for 5.8. Likely 5.9 as well, but the crux is near the ground. Typical Josh not to incorporate hard moves that are right off the ground.3/25- Leisurely rolled into the Park and picked up Bob and waited for my mom to come by and watch us climb. She arrived and we tried for Echo, but all the good lines I wanted to take Sabrina and Bob on were full up. We trapsed around to Hunk Rock and the back of Echo rocks, climbing on the following lines.
1. Finger Food 5.9 OSNF (one book calls it 10a- likely correct) Short and sweet finger crack. From that we TR'd …
2. Igor Prince of Poodles 11c. Fell/hung many times getting to the 3rd bolt we had a directional on. Technical stemming and palming in an overhanging corner. We went back over to Echo and finally got this family to wrap up and leave to do…
3. Sitting here in Limbo 5.9 OSNF A good route, though a bit contrived start and bolt placement. Fun move nonetheless.
4. Bacon Flake 5.8 OSNF Another good line with an interesting start that has pockets. Steep near the top with really good holds and feet.
By then it was getting cold, so we called it a day.3/26- Of course, another leisurely start (this is a recurring theme throughout the week). In the parking lot met up with a guy named Dennis who asked/wanted to climb so I agreed to let him go with our group of three. We went over to Locomotion Rock in Real Hidden Valley. A couple good climbs, a couple not so good climbs. People were already there, so we picked something that wasn't taken over on the right of the wall.
1. Hhecht 5.7, started up and got to the grunt section on Hhecht, but then tensioned over to Jump Back Loretta 5.5 because of Hhecht's deep jams. I came to Josh to have fun, not get ravaged the 3rd day. I wussed, but I'm sure Sabrina appreciated it. There is no easy walk off, but we made friends with people we saw the day before and rapped off their TR on Leaping Leana/Leaping Leaner/Leaping Lena. The spelling is different in various guidebooks.
2. Jumping Jehosaphat 5.7 Dennis led in slow, but good style. We all followed, but in the process I switched up to belay Sabrina and Bob up, with the idea that I could come down or set up a TR after our newly found friends were done. And we did
3. Leaping Lena 5.6- All TR'd. But if you start this one from the pit, it is harder than the given rating. The rating is for a start from the boulder, but the bolt appears to be missing. To make up for the poor showing on Hhect, I tried at Dennis' urging …
4. Chalk up another one 5.10a (listed as 5.9 in one book, but there is at least one 10a move) L2F The first fall onto the 3rd bolt was not a total surprise. I was feeling tired and got twisted up on the move. The second one I just plain slipped. Third try worked.
3/27- A more productive then the others prior at Hall of Horrors. Today we made arrangements with Evan and Audra. A good day climbing with them. Evan is a pleasure to climb with because of his sincere appreciation for climbing as an aesthetic adventure. He immediately got on Diamond Dogs, but while he was leading that I went and did
1. Bong Along 5.7 OSNF a good shoulder length spectra works well at the flake, slide it on from underneath and hook on horn.
2. Diamond Dogs 10a TRNF I cleaned this for Evan- a real pump for the first few moves. Powerful lieback. After which I wanted to lead something hard too.
3. Guardian Angels 10a OSNF a four bolt balancing affair that you must tunnel under a boulder to get to it. I then TR'd…
4. Barking Spiders 10a TRNF a loose-potato chips kind of climb.
5. Casual 5.9 (feels like a 10a move though) TRNF - cleaned for Evan. Both times I followed this route the move still seemed really hard, though well protected by a bolt. After taking a quick rest and scrambling up to the Den of Doom we did the following…
6. Doomed 5.6 R OSNF a one bolt face route.
7. Flakes of Doom 5.6 solo'd while waiting for Bri and Bob to do a climb- at the top of these climbs a yellow alien is bomber before flipping the lip.
8. Doom de doom doom 5.7 TRNF a little late in the day to solo, but another decent set of moves, though short like the others.
9. Doctor Doom 5.6 OSSOLO on the opposite side of the "Den" good flakes and pockets
10. Doomsday 5.9+ OSNF (felt like a 10a move) the longest route on the wall with 4 bolts. A good line with a fun move down low. A hollow flake exists on it. I traversed left to the only good anchor available on top. The wide crack on top has bad hollow disintegrating rock.3/28- took a rest day and hung out at the pool and shopped in Cabazon. The only day with rain was a rest day anyway.
3/29- A crowded Echo rocks packed us up and headed for Granny Goose rock aka Left Hand of Darkness in the Vogel Guide.
1. Bryant Gumbel 5.8 OSNF- a nice crack/ramp to face moves.
2. Jane Pauley 5.8 OSNF- the counter part to Bryant- both routes are nice, the later pro-ing well with stoppers.
3. Pump up the Volume 5.11a- L4F I worked this out, without getting the redpoint, but likely could go back to it and make it work.
4. Uncle Fester- 10d TRNF finger crack- it would be kind of hard to place pro since you lay back the edge and grab flakes on the right until you can get a good lock.
5. Grandpa Gander 10c/d R OSNF- the clean and proud lead for the week. Direct start with a little hang up from the belayer trying to clip, but moved past it to the decent edges and finished by joining Pump up the Volume and using the existing TR anchors I set up. After Bob and Sabrina TR'd most of the lines, we headed for where we knew we wouldn't see people. Belle Campground, we were wrong, but fortunately the people we met there, Bob had climbed with Doug Sheely (sp?) with before in Minnesota.
6. Diabetics 5.4 OSSOLO a good line with big knobs and a pro-able crack.
7. Love at First Bite 5.8 OSSOLO
8. Diagnostics 5.6 (likely a little harder) OSNF Good overhanging corner start to sweet jugs and good crack that is conveniently pro-able.
9. Descent Route 5.3 OSSOLO Big jugs. A perfect Katie Pipper route.
10. Ground Finale 10a OSSOLO- crux is within the first 12 feet. Almost popped though. Got pictures of Sabrina from climbing this line, after I had a someone throw the camera up to me.3/30- Our last day, tired, but psyched to try and squeeze in some more lines. The hottest day, but we went to Belle Campground, Castle Rock South Face anyway.
1. Yucca Bowl 5.6 OSNF
2. True Grit 5.9 OSNF- it was too hot, so we headed for Stirrup Tank, though seemingly cooler it was actually still in the sun. The sun slowly sapped my motivation. Needed to drink more water. We climbed on the Wooley Spider formation.
3. Arachnids 5.5 OSNF
4. Tarantula 5.2 OSSOLO
5. Wooly Spider 5.2 OSSOLO
6. TR Variation 5.8 TRNF to Wooly Spider on the face to the right, starting immediately right of starting bucket on Wooly. After hiking around identifying formations, we headed back to Belle to meet up with some friends of Sabrina's that were supposed to meet us there.
7. Bonnie Brae 5.7 OSNF
8. Bubba's Tourist Trap 5.9 OSNF tricky start- a Dave Rubine route, whom incidently Dennis of earlier in the week had actually climbed with before. Dennis says to say hi Dave.
9. Belly Flop 5.9+ (basically a 10a move) attempted on lead, but back off cuz late in the day tired.
10. Belly Flop 5.9+ got the TR after protecting the upper section by clipping the directional bolt above.All in all a great week. Sabrina climbed really hard and is getting stronger. Bob, for being 62 is climbing well, though he cheats a bit on gear, but it doesn't bother him at all. By the end of the trip he was pulling 5.9 slab with no cheating. Sabrina was pulling very hard and worked out the moves on a 10a (finger food) the overhanging lieback start on Diagnostics, and even cracks which she has declared "is hard work" contra claims by friends about 'good jams' and 'pure enjoyment.' She thinks they are lying climbers. "It's just not true what these climbers are saying."
I'm not saying anything, but I think in time she might come to appreciate them.
4/6/02 Table Mtn Gold Wall David S, Brad, Steve and Laura (Phil Bone, Howard Painter and Brian were there, but didn't get a chance to talk routes)
Went to an area I hadn't been to before. But the night before dropped Dave S off at Doug L's place and I proceeded to Brad's. An eventful, but not unrestful, night when I heard the sweet sounds of new baby Tricia's voice crying. Still zonked I woke up fully groggy. After a cup of Jo, oj, and bagel we got on the road. A quick call to Doug and David to wake them from Daylight savings slumber. We arrived at the first gate to find Joel A. there. Quickly thereafter Steve and Laura D showed. Good temps in the morning made the hike in pleasant. Got the wall with plenty of shade. I followed Joel on a 10b, and then grabbed another TR on the good 10c to its left. By then I was a little pumped. After belaying for awhile I tried to lead the one 10a R route on the right of the wall. Got through the crux but got pumped at the last 3 bolts. I finally lead through on that attempt with hangs, but really didn't want to fall. I'm afraid of falling. I might feel better about falling if I wasn't quite so tall and heavy. First goal then. Got the moves on a TR later, so some redemption was available. Dave S climbed well. Doug L's back is still bugging. Steve and Laura climbed gracefully as usual. Met Phil, Brian and Howard for the first time. All climbed well, but they were surprised to see so many of us at once. It was only a fluke we all ended at the same place for the weekend and all decided to stay together.
4/20-4/22/02- E. Side Bouldering: Dreamers, Get Carter, Roadside Rocks, Sads. No hard problems for me, but Sean cranked a V6.
5/5/02-Sonora- Jeff L arrived at my place at an early time and we jammed for Brad's to pick up the drill. After breakfast and quickly getting the drill and bolt kit (Eric S. still had mine though he was in WA) and listening to Katie's tale of woe about getting stepped on accidentally, we headed for Dave C's place and Potter's Rock. The previous weekend, Bill L and I got rained out, but we checked conditions (read as drank beer) and knew the road was open. Picking up Joan from Dave's place the plan was to do some climbs at Potter's, then put in a new route or two. I had Jeff and Joan climb Cut Corner 5.6*** With biting ants and lot's of leaves, they definitely were the first one's on it this season. Jeff lead in good style and though complaining about the leaves thought it was a good route. Next was Hell Nino 10a**. I convinced Jeff to give it a go with only a couple trad pieces and good bolts above it was a no-brainer for him. Though a little hesitation in places, Jeff onsighted the route. His hardest to date. Well done! We all toproped it and Hope on a Rope. Hope on a rope seemed harder than the 10c rating, but likely because I only had 5 hours of sleep. After that it was 2:30 and Joan had to go. So Jeff and I kept cruising checking out the waterfalls and run off cascades on the way down. At Post Law School wall, Jeff had to convince me to give it a shot. I was pretty tired. The goals, in my mind, was to put in two bolts (ground up this time) and let Jeff lead something around there. I got in two and Jeff starts giving me trouble for wanting to come down. I "let" Jeff have a turn checking out the next moves. After some water and rest, I thought about checking out the moves. Roped up. They weren't bad to a good stance. Pulled up the drill and kit and got in the third bolt with respectable distances between the bolts with fun and moderate climbing. Jeff toped off the day with another onsight…the very slippery Plea Bargain 5.9. At this point in the afternoon this wall cooks in the sun. I cleaned with one fall carrying the pack. I didn't remember it being that slippery, but it is.
5/11/02- Sonora Pass- Jeff L. and I headed for Post Law School Wall to finish our project. Put in the last two bolts on lead, and lead through bottom to top. "No exfoliation without representation" 120' 6 bolts. Decided that an extra bolt was warranted. Put that one in TR. 5.8 was about the hardest move. Brad and Katie joined us, and Katie climbed some and Brad finished up his leads in the area with the coveted 3rd ascent. Brad and Katie took off early. Jeff and I headed down canyon and put in two new crack climbs at 5.5 Mr. Slippy Fist and 5.6. Then TR'd the faces just inside of the cracks (10a and 10c). With one variation being particularly hard (11a?)
5-19-02- Jeff L. and I immediately went to Brad's to pick up bolting gear and aid gear for the new projects. Said hi to Vick, Katie and baby Patricia. Drove to the area and started to work immediately realizing that time was short since it was expected to rain and snow (4,000ft). Being fearful of the exposure, I hesitantly and slowly started up the corner system for the main project on this new area. Only top stepping a couple times, I managed to move up slowly but surely to a point where a potential loose block sits. Too intimidated to finish I put in anchors and lowered. Encouraging Jeff, we agreed he should try for the FFA. After some futzing around he managed to clip the anchors in good style. As he rigged the anchor slings to rap off, I soloed some easy crack and face climbs to the right with names like "Three Little Pigs" and "Top Notch Pussy" we pretty much called it a day. But having some battery juice we put in a single anchor on one of the 'pigs' for this coming weekend's festivities. By this time the weather was looking ominous, but it wasn't raining yet. It's not a good idea to be out in a rainstorm at elevation. But we hiked down valley anyways, found the approach to another crag. (looks like bear country). As soon as we reached it the skies opened up and we got soaked, drenched and hailed on. We hiked back up to our now drenched packs and humped up to the car. A good day with wet ending.
May 2002 - Memorial Day Weekend:
Friday: Leisurely morning start. Bri and I drove to check out Burst Rock and
Herring Creek, Burst rock trailhead road had snow across it past the pack station.
Herring creek was open so I knew we'd have a blast. After that drove up to do
some bouldering at Pump Rocks. Worked a couple problems on Lounge Lizard rock
and what later was coined as the Memorial boulder. One sit start was especially
good, but the crux problem was the right to left rising traverse starting from
the far right side and moving through the "ear" knob. In the evening
had a wonderful meal with B, V, K and P.
Saturday: met up with everyone at the Strawberry Inn, where we stayed (ok place to stay and central to climbing). Convinced everyone to go to Herring Creek Dome. Once there everyone had a great time with water running and moderate climbs to be had by all. Bri and Jen really seemed to appreciate the slab climbing and the cleanliness of the granite (no choss this weekend). Sean and Evan hit "Sea of Tranquility" behind another party. Surprisingly, there was several teams on the wall, but it just didn't seem crowded. We (read Jocelyn, Jeff G, Jen, Jeff L, and Bri did the climbs on the right side of the dome. After doing a couple of new climbs, I followed Jeff and Jeff's idea to do "Sea…" since the party of 4 were now higher on the route. But instead of doing the first pitch I onsight soloed a flake to slab between "The Mentor" and "The Teacher." Call it "The Student." Then finished by going up the last 3 pitches of "Sea…" Doug L. had come out and enjoyed a couple easy pitches in the hopes of stretching some back muscles. Later he did his exercises… what a place to do exercises. Jeff and Jeff got caught behind the party I bypassed up high. The ladies in the group climbed and cleaned (in a precarious way for one of them) a TR on the anchors for "The Slave" Jen called it "Burly Girl." The name stuck.
After wrapping up we traveled up-highway to do some bouldering at Pump Rocks. With multiple crash pads we brushed and worked multiple hard lines. Some had been done before, but some were just plain fun new problems.
Sunday: Went to Potter's. Met Em and Bruce in the morning and headed up to meet the rest of the gang at the designated spot at the entrance to Beardsley. Went to Potter's parking and some had breakfast. Saw two of the guys from the previous day they went to Post Law School apparently. Strom and Brad showed. Brad managed to talk Jeff L into doing some aid and talked Strom into joining me on my aid project as well. The aid project went well… for Strom anyways. I got up into it and got further than before, but horizontal roofs are just not my gig. Just plain felt weak. So I offered it to Strom. He finished it off in no time. But left the route unfinished thinking Jeff L and others would be down soon. I had Bri TR some easy short slabby cracks and faces next while Strom soaked in the sun. Fortunately not too many mosquitos. In any event, they didn't show so Strom went back up and finished the pitch and lowered off a stopper. Not sure of the name, but I proposed "Hell or High Water." Eventually, Brad and Jeff showed along with Bruce and Em, but we were already headed out.
Monday, Bri woke up with a swollen eye from an allergic reaction to a mosquito bite. The day ended short, but we wished the clan good luck and they spent the day at 2nd quarry. With everyone having a good weekend…I was happy.
6/15 or 16/02-Sonora
For Father's Day Jeff L and I headed for the stomping grounds. Excited as hell, we were planning on a long easy first ascent. It paid out after crashing at Doug's place in Sonora. A superb day on good rock, with plenty of elevation gain. Started by soloing the bottom half of the buttress to the left and below all the other climbs. Got to a slabby section and moved through moves there and up realizing the Golden Headwall would be a project for others or a different time. We bypassed it on the left but snuck in a 5.6 move to get on top of the headwall instead of the 4th class bypass. More easy ground got us to a wall Brad and I looked at a year or so ago. I lead out on some knobs to a slot for a #2 camalot and up through more good knobs to land on another good ledge. Lane followed and we soloed to the top on more easy 5th class terrain. On top we discovered what Sean was yapping about. More to come on that later. We dropped back down and did a few more climbs on that wall (Body Parts Wall). All moderate, but one 5.8 turned out to be … interesting. Lane lead this one hoping to tie off a knob or two en route. 30 feet up he soon found no pro to the blank section above a slight indentation/dish. Two smallish knobs and two edges provided something to work with, but BLAMO, his right hand edge POPPED! Disintigrating flakes rained down on me. Jeff almost barn-dooring off, but for an instinctual grab back down for a knob. A second to breath and a toe-hand match and Jeff had the dike in hand. Me laughing in a hysterical manner that only psychotics and Philosophy majors can, and Jeff's heart rate coming back down to normal, we both seemed to relish in surviving and in not having to carry out broken body parts. The other good line was the 5.6 off the right, just above the big right facing chimney. Starting below the main ledge the other routes start from, climb the edge of the flake/chimney and move up and left onto the main wall going through some knobby features. Then step back right over the small roof for an airy move. Grab the last two knobs and pull up on to a rest. Continue straight up the arête going through a steep golden granite section for a clean 110-120' of climbing.
Continued bouldering at Lost Keys, hash rock, and parking lot
6/22 and 6/23/02- Tuolumne Meadows and E. Side
Fri- got up there late crashed out in truck outside the park on the E. side. Lane slept on sloping bed of nails in a Chinese water torture chamber… well actually just sloping with water all around and freezing air temps.
Sat- got up drove down to look for the Brothers Sawaya. No sightings, so we jumped on the “Guides Route” 5.6 *** 4 or 5 pitches. Well protected crux pitch (Lane lead) with enjoyable climbing. Easy to rap from top by traversing left to top of Needle Spoon and Dike Route. After rapping down we hung out deciding whether to climb some more or look for the guys since we hadn’t seen them. Fuck it, let’s climb. Got on “Dike Route” 5.9R **** Just about then Doug L. and the Bros showed up. Lane let me lead the two sweetest pitches. The “walk the dike” pitch is way fun. The crux ‘R” pitch actually is not 70’, but instead there is a bolt which cuts the distance in half. I was very pleased to stumble onto that little gem. Jeff also lead the last 5.7 corner at the top. Head to the very North end of the dome and do a short rappel to get off if you go to the top. The 3 stragglers headed up the “Guide’s Route” since another party was behind us. In yelling to the Bros we learned Sean and Jocelyn were in the area. Went over to Low Profile dome since the brothers were still on the Guides Route. At Low Profile it was crowded with knuckleheads. I tried to lead Shithooks 10b***. Had some stomach nerves at the base. Blew it off and got the 10a lieback no prob, but got pooped out at the first 10b crux because of no sleep and the day’s adventures. I lowered and Jeff got on and lead through after one hang. He finished up and cleaned as well because by that time my stomach felt even more like shit. Good day all in all.
Met up with Sean and Jocelyn at Knobs 1. That night partied a bit around the brother’s camp down in Lee Vining Canyon. It was discussed in a party hazed atmosphere of going down to Catacombs. Not all were ready to give up a day in the Meadows for E. Side. So Jeff went with the Bros and I headed with Sean and Jocelyn the next morning. The bros got on NW books with the crowds and Low Profile Dome. S, J and I had breakfast in Mammoth, and TRIP THIS OUT, but we stumbled across my Dad, Uncle and Cousins who had just come out of the backcountry. TRIPPER!!! Meant to be. Anyway, after breakfast, we headed to Catas. Warm, but we followed shade and enjoyed several problems. I love that place! After getting pretty tired on some new V0s and some V1 action and project-worked an alleged V3, we drove over to Pinion Walls for some exploration. More superb shit waiting to be climbed. After that, and finding a broken arrowhead, headed up for some ice cream. Then continued up tomeet the bros at Low Profile. They were wrapping up after David and Jeff lead Darth Vaders 10a, and someone did Golfers Route. Jeff let me get on a climb so I opted for Darth Vaders to the mid way bolts to save some time. Got to the crux and was avoiding a large flake to the left, not sure why in hindsight, but in any event I didn’t tell Jeff I was moving at that point so got a downward pull on the upward move. I hung on, but got really nervous at that point and popped. Jeff holding the fall beautifully. Got back on and floated through it this time using the key flake on the left. The slippery section above seemingly more sketchy than the crux move itself. Lead to the anchors and bailed. Headed to Knobs for coffee with Sean and Jocelyn and nabbed a dyno I’ve been meaning to get for awhile. Fun stuff and another good day.
Headed back grabbing Del Taco that I’m regretting today.
6/30/02- Fun House Brad, chica, Doug, David and bro
July 4th weekend--Wed night- drove in late through Park and camped at Deadmans at 2:30am.
Thurs- kinda dead and it was the 4th of July parade and festival in
Mammoth so Chica and I spent time there. Went to catacombs...was warm...
but
managed a few evening session problems. Camped near Catacombs.
Friday- drove around Mammoth areas inspecting different bouldering and
climbing areas and site seeing. Avoided Co2 danger zone at Horseshoe
lake... Checked out Bachar boulders at end of day. Superb!!!!
Highball, highquality, 5.8 and up deadman's-like problems. Highlight of
that day was a 10b 20' problem and getting spanked on an 11a (see
below). Went for soak in Hotsprings. Had dinner at Tom's place (saw
many firefighters eating in shifts from fire that was contained on left
side of road into rock creek. Met up with Sean and Jocelyn at Catacombs
in the evening. Camped there.
Saturday- Had breakfast there and cruised to Geophysics Boulders right
at the junction of 203 and 395 (Mammoth Cut off). Very cool moderate
problems. Slippery welded tuff. Way fun way to start the day and get
warmed up. We did all the problems there basically. Then went to Triple
Cracks (another deadman's like area with death defying highballs). Did
some 5.8-5.10 problems. Almost blew off for the tumble on one, but
stuck with it. Then went to Bachar Boulders for a finish to the day.
11a overhung pocketed face 20' + or -. One failure. Then said to
myself (in all seriousness) "I want this." Then sent it with
some hard
breathing at the top. (Sean floated it and others easily all day long).
Jocelyn was cranking well also. Successful on a 10b OTD. Though she
greased off the top of another 10b OTD that she thought was supposed to
be 5.8. Next time for sure! Then we all went for a soak in Hot springs.
Stayed in motel, thanks Chris.
Sunday- leisurely start and off to Clark Canyon. Checked out #13
section. Bunch of new moderate routes. We all had a blast on these 4
routes. Super featured 5.6-5.9 (5.10a?). Sabrina, I think, really
enjoyed this area (since by then she was acclimatized) and she likes
bigger holds and sport climbs. Then went to Alcove area. Sean did a 10c
no trouble. Sabrina and I did a 5.7 with ginormous holds. The gang
convinced me to try another route Sean and Jocelyn did. A 10b (book topo
shows 10c at upper headwall). I barely got it with good encouragement.
Then Sabrina got on it. Her hardest worked route to date. All the
upward movement was her. 10c!!!!!!
Dropped down to Bachar boulders for dinner and some more bouldering,
but
realized how late it was and took off. Got in around 12:30.
7/19 or 7/20 and following day. T-meadows Shaggadelic 5.8*** 4 pitches with Jeff G., and Darth Vader's 10a***, Knobs bouldering with Sean, Vince and Rosco. Sunday- Bachar Boulders- Highlight 20' OTD 10d. Checked new route potential near White Wolf.
8/3/02- Bouldered at the Arboretum in Sonora. Pulled down a few V0s and a V1.
8/4/02- Went with Brad and Greg B. to the Fun House at Burst Rock SPH areas.. Cleaned a 5.9 crack on TRNF. Then lead a new 5.9* 3 bolt pro to 1" climb. Fun pockedges. Then lead through the latest project. 10d** LNF. Either calling it Gold and Pepper or Orange and Pepper. In any event, a fun climb with 4 bolts. Surprisingly that is sufficient for the number. You can't really take the time to clip elsewhere. While Brad was getting ready I looked around the corner and eye'd an easy set of moves. "Chufftard" 5.4R* pro to 1.5". I think it could be TR'd off the same anchors as the 10d, but not sure. Then a new arête 5.8+ or maybe 5.9**. 3 bolts. Another fun one with grabbing the sharp arête being very aesthetic. TR'd the lines to the left it at 5.8 and 10b. Both worthwhile TR's. Besides the project the highlight was an onsight of 4 days off 10c***. Another great arête climb, but longer this time that is down at Baffin Island. Greg went with and got the onsight of 4 days off, and got on 3 days on with only one hiccup. I followed on TR cleanly. I always climb well on TR, but I think I could get this one fresh.
8/11/02- Bouldered at new area. 4 V0/1s
Checked out another area, with one good cliff and and one good boulder. Also, spent a few minutes at Arboretum. Good stuff. Limestone is slippery.
8/24/02- Bouldered at new area. 11 new problems. VB- to V0+. Worked a V2 otd. Got scared. Highlight was the "Black and Tanned" boulder. A nice black streak on a tanned boulder. I was pretty wigged. I got up there near the top of this 30' beast. I was hoping to use this monstrous cobble stone. Turns out it was totally rounded. . So fortunately the streak itself had some usable holds, but they were moss covered and felt like glued on golf balls. Made a tentative step and pulled through to the flake. From the flake up to the top was fairly sparse for holds, with nothing really positive, I went up with a left hand high and the right hand on the flake I did a highstep onto the giant cobble stone and managed to tip toe off the thing. Can you say OTD?
9/7/02 weekend- a little bouldering on a concrete structure.
9/14/02- climbed/bouldered on granite- 5 short solos 5.4-5.8 on 25' wall. 1 V0-* 15', 1 VB 15', 1 5.4 solo up a ramp, 1 5.10a? solo 35'?; crux at 15', 1 V2 ish over hanging project on boulder.
9/22/02- Drove up Sat night. Camped at Memorial Boulder. Sun. Humming Bird Buttress with Jeff L. Jeff lead the 5.8 in good style as we warmed up. Jeff lowered and I had him clean the lower bolts to try a TR on the far left of the wall. But it looked to hard to warm up on. So I followed on the 5.8. Afterwards TR'd a line that I think Greg Barnes put up, that starts to the right of "You Insolent Peasant" but finishes at "One Fine Day" anchors. 5.10b/c? OSTRNF. Jeff lead the 5.9 and we bailed. Went over to "Old Soldiers" after a fair amount of searching and TR'd Run for you life 10c and Old Soldiers 11a. Both OSTRNF. Bouldered in the area on some sweet problems. Then checked out some other boulders for potential and The Iceburg on Clarks Fork River.
9/28&29/02- SPH with Frank R. and Brad on Sunday. Met Frank at Strawberry and tried to catch up with Jeff and Henri, but they left already. So we cruised up to Chipmunk Flat area. It was looking a little cloudy, but we knocked out the 5.8, 5.9 and the second pitch on the 5.9. A little crumbly, but nice moves. Pro to 2.5" It started to snow with just a few flecks. Seeing the clouds push againste us we tried to sneak up behind it by going West to The Grotto. Totally dry there. Met a couple guys from So. Cal. that came to climb specifically in this area. Did the 5.9 warm up, and Frank did AC Devil dog 10d with only one minor hang. It was getting late so we headed up to Welcome wall and I worked the first few bolts on some 10c on the left, and Frank finished it off. I was just tired.
Crashed at Brad's, which was nice considering it was still pretty wet out. We got a late start, but dropped to the Forebay anyways. Frank drove his new truck and was taking it kinda slow, so it seemed like forever by the time we got there. I accidently dunked a foot in the water before getting to the climbs. Not a good start to the day. I encouraged Frank to start up a new line. He lead the first section fine, but had to put a bolt in higher up. Up went the drill. After gettting that in, he tried for the lip, but took some falls and offered up the lead. I tried, but no success. Both of us were pushing the line straight up. Brad then tried, but immediately used an escape ledge out to the right. Two anchor bolts later he came down. We all TR'd it. Then with that knowledge, Frank lead up from the ground to put in the last bolt and finish the climb. Brad lead through clean at the end. I found a drier return path and checked out the spillway boulders. Very big, but not conducive to many good problems. Polished, clean cuts, and devoid of face holds. You could eek out a hand full of problems and may be worth ist if you add in the tunnel.
10/5&6/02- Castle Rock State Park- Two days of good sessions. Of note, Egghead and Domino Theory have great problems. Just missed meeting folks from boldering.com. Lost keys high traverse almost went down. Sean backed off the top mantle. I think he was saving it for me. Either that or he was seriously tired. Stopped by Howard's place for some homemade Pizza and homebrew. The stout was good. The IPA I'm not a big fan of.
10/02 thru 11/16/02- Two trips to the E Side including areas like Roadside Rocks, Sads, Happys, Pollen Grains, Dreamers and the Druid Stones. Visual inspection of The Gunks in T-meadows. Mad cranking and fun. Flailed on Serenghetti again, but sent a highball V2 that was fun. Fired off first try, this trip, Ketron Classic V4 (definitely a V3). Heel hook is key. Almost nailed this V3 on Kojak boulder at Druid Stones. Some trips to Castle Rock and one garage session at Jeff G's.
December 02 Arizona trip with Uncle Bob.
Granite Dells Campground 5.7 and 5.9 TR inside campground on So Facing rock just to North of bathrooms.
Metate Day Use area- several TRs and leads on So facing side. cracks and face.
Sullivan Canyon -
Wild Rumpus 5.5 * Corner OSNF
Double Cracks 5.8 OSNF (not in book)
Bam Bam 5.6** OSNF
Big Bowl 5.5* OSNF
Keystone 5.9* OSNF
Monopoly 5.7** Solo OS
Bed Time Story 5.8** OSNF
Squeeze Play 10a/b TRNFOS
Rock Jock 5.5* OSNF
Jump Start 5.7*** solo
Sharp End 5.9* OSNF
Dust Bowl 5.8* Backed off, couldn't clip anchors, though climbed above.