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Most of the routes here are on a short and moderately steep wall on the
upper section of the large 2nd Class ledge system that traverses Herring
Creek Dome from right to left. This area can often stay breezy when the
other wall can be cooking in the sun. The route Herring Bone starts at
the foot of the lowest buttress at a small right facing flake and some
diorite knobs and eventually connects to this upper section of wall and
continues past. This section of wall "The Body Parts Wall" can
easily be set with TRs. Bring some extra sling to properly rig.
1. Frail Flake 5.5 R Pro to 1"
2. Dos Huevos 5.5* Pro to #4 camalot
3. Diriticulitis 5.6 Pro to 1" and tie offs. Joins either Dos Huevos
or Herring Bone at 3/4 height.
4. Herring Bone 5.6* Pro to 2.5" and tie offs. 5 or more pitches.
Mostly easy ground and possible to avoid all hard parts by escaping out
left. The longest route on the Dome. Start as per above staying right
on the clean wavy rock to the right of the cracks. There is a large dish/ledge
that can traverse left on unprotected ground 5.6 to bypass the slab below
the Golden Headwall. Bypass the headwall on the left stepping through
some so-so flakes to get on top of this headwall. 5.6. Continue up easy
ground to the large bushy ledge below the main climbs. (the Body Parts
wall). Go up the middle of the wall pursuing the best knobs (see topo).
5.5. Once above this continue up the final couple hundred feet to the
summit. 5.4 easing to 5.2.
5. Emergency Tracheotomy 5.8 X one knob tie off. Crux 30' up. Tie off
above crux 10'.
6. Sagittal Crest 5.6** R Pro to 1" Exposed move stepping right
once past the knobs.
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