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Frankensteins

2nd Quarry

Chipmunk Flat

Table Mountain

Potter's Rock

Post law School

Legoland

Egg Rock

Herring Creek Dome

Burst Rock

Lost World and Bear's Lair

 

Camping and Lodging

Hamburger Rock:

  • As of a report dated 5/29/2006, the bolts on top have been removed.

Short Cracks:

  • Forest Service has blocked the entrance listed in the guidebook. From the entrance described in the book... '.95 mile past Eagle Meadow turnoff ' (going East bound), go a little further as the road curves toward the North. On the right, just past this curve, is an additional road access partially concealed by brush. It has broken asphalt as an indentifier once you're on it. If you hit the Vista, you've gone too far. Turn around and make a left onto it. Watch for oncoming traffic in this area.
  • Short Cracks-
    • TR proj. left of Sweet. Hard 11 or easy 12. If it's already been done clean, please email or post up to get the record straight.

Donnell's Vista:

  • 3 Pocket TR- 5.10b or c. TR the face just left of the 5.7 Flake route using the first part of the flake to stand on. Then follow a series of 3 pockets up to the white rock scar then a slabby finish move. TR'd as early as the 70s.
  • Double Cracks Corner- 5.4 omitted from 1st edition. Located just right of the 10a finger crack. Should the new name be "Double Crack Corner, and I don't care..."
  • Old Aid Seam- ?free? Located in between the 5.7 Flake and the 10a finger crack next to the tree. I seem to recall having tried this using the arete on the right with successs, but that was a number of years ago.

Quickie Mart:

The distance to Quickie Mart from Cascade Creek campground is more like 1.3 miles rather than the listed 1.8. It is hard to see from the Hwy. However, as a reference, remember that the small clifflets that contain the routes "Carton of Milk" and "Loaf of Bread" and "Lottery Ticket" are located next to the Hwy.

The Loaf:

Photo Overlay #1 = A Loaf of Bread, #2 = Lottery Ticket

  • A Loaf of Bread... may be harder than 5.7. Think hand stack. Somewhat dirty as of 10/14/2007. Pro to #5 camalot (new style). Can probably get away with #4 camalots for setting a TR. Approach top from West side of cliff for less brush.

Frankensteins:

  • NEW - loaded an updated approach map to the climbs at Frankensteins. *** Draft Format!! Map courtesy of Brad Young.
  • NEW - loaded an updated approach map to Herring Creek Dome and Frankensteins
  • Orson Welles P1 (11a, thin). Getting into and exiting the crack are the difficult bits. (bring RPs and small nuts).
  • "Mr. Ed" has a slightly smaller crack size than 1" as indicated in the topo but the gear recommendation is correct in that gear "up to" 2" is right.
  • BOLT CONDITIONS First pitch anchor bolts for Nibbler/Niblet are a pair of 1/4" studs, one on a Leeper and one on an SMC hanger. They need replacing sooner rather than later. Take screamers in the mean time.
  • Reports just in of recent bolting work."The anchor scene is that the top of Root Canal has a third bolt added above and between the original two, with a chain that matches up with the first two chains.
    Third ledge has two new bolts with Fixe rap-ring hangers.
    Second ledge has the old bolt with washers and chain on the right. The bolt on the left has a Metolius hanger, lap link and chain. A third bolt has been added, above and in the middle, with a hanger, quick-link and chain to match the other two chains in length." Thx goes to those putting in the work.
  • Word is that for warm weather it would be good to do West Face routes first with a decent start on lines like Root Canal or Perfectly Frank), then finish off with the "South" face (e.g. Nibbler Arete - Dinosaurs)

2nd Quarry:

  • "Shake and Bake" 10c fingers to overhanging hands. anchors below horizontal belly crawl offwidth. FA unknown as there is a photo by Blitzo of someone on it possibly from march 07. Formerly known as "project z" in the book.
  • "Knuckle Sandwich" 5.9 pro to 4"-Follows crack straight above "Prime Rib" to rim. FRA Dean Fleming and Nick Miley. date forthcoming. Anyone have beta on other ascents of this line?
  • "Leftovers" 5.11b/c pro to 5" - Crack left of the true "Slim Chickens". I.e. "Leftovers" is where slim chickens was drawn in the book. Slim chickens is to the right on the blunted arete with bolts. FRA Dean Fleming. date forthcoming. Anyone have beta on other ascents? So far, no other reported ascents to me. Email us if you know of earlier ascents. See next bullet.
    • "Slim Chickens" in the book is slightly misplaced. The roof is not the route, and has not gone. Instead Slim Chickens starts as described here and follows a line of 5 to 6 bolts. "It starts in the crack/flake (a little dirty), where a cam can be placed prior to the thin and funky step left to thin dicey face goodness. If you're tall you may be able to reach the 1st bolt before stepping left. Then Step to the arete for a "thank god " rest, reach up clip, and then the real bouldery business starts." Use gear for anchor- rap Fruity Pebbles anchor to descend.
  • Pro for "Carne Knowledge" (pg. 95 is .75 camalot to #5 camalot)- approach via base of "Lumpy Gravy" passing "Original Skin." The 5.6 "easy Meat" is just beyond.
  • "Easy Meat" pg. 95- the right hand crack is actually very close to the shown right facing corner. It is more natural to exit out this right hand crack, unless you are Brutus. :)
  • "Original Skin" in the book is slightly misdrawn for the features on this part of the cliff. Original Skin follows the crack on the face, whereas the corner/open book as shown as route "T" on the book topo is a different line just right of original Skin.
  • When driving to Second Quarry, be sure to drive through the gate mentioned on page 92 of the Hwy 108 Guide, before veering to the right hand fork. Alternatively, review the overview map on page 87.

Egg Rock

  • NEW beta - there are two sets of bolts on top.The right-hand one, as you approach the top, is for the Flake, the other set is for the below TR/lead project/clean aid line. Set #2 camalots in the crack to the left (as viewed from looking down from the top) of the below's anchors to TR the 'Bone Yerian line.
  • "Off to see the Wizard" now goes free on TR at 12b/c. Gear is really scary for lead. Dean is working it, but is avoiding fixing pins to avoid damaging the crack. " with the knobs and stuff it goes free at a very enjoyable pitch" The route also goes as a clean aid climb by the way. FTR- Dean Fleming

Chipmunk Flat

  • First Buttress climbs located. These climbs are hard to spot based on the guidebook description and topo. #1 is the 50' "obvious" dihedral, not the one up and to the left in the photo. #2 is the Potter route and aid climbs.
  • Soda Creek Slab- most likely climbed many times over the years. Right next to the road where Soda Creek crosses Highway 108 at the bridge on the East Side of Sonora Pass. On the N. side of the Hwy. Prominent left leaning crack and various slab routes. The rock quality is understood to be not the greatest.
  • Deadman Buttress looks like this if you are trying to identify the 5.9 and 11a. It is the middle formation of the three buttresses.
    • From this pic, the route wanders right to the 'dike-like' feature. 11a to gain the stance he's on and the dike, 10b vert after that. Route went in ground up, hooks for crux bolts.
  • A Kiddie Slab near first and second buttress, right next to the road. Short and low angle. Could be good for teaching little ones to climb.
  • Have you ever been on this?
  • Column of the Giants- Project “I” in the guidebook has been completed. (pg. 116) It has black painted chain-draws on it. There is a loose block chalked with an “x” as of end of the season in 2003.
  • ------------------------------
  • Remember, if climbing near the actual Pass and you start seeing thunderclouds boiling up. Get down!!! The Chipmunk flat area can get some good afternoon thunderclouds- complete with lightning. This is the Sierra.
  • "You Insolent Peasant" 5.9 The second pitch needs gear to 2.5". The first anchors need some lap or screwlinks and chains to prevent unsightly webbing buildup.
  • Part of the "boulder campsite" shown on page 118 has been closed to vehicle traffic. i.e. you can't camp there anymore.
  • To approach "Old Soldiers" etc. after the boulder campsites, park at the second dirt pullout on the straight away section before the turns start switchbacking again. Walk across the road and North East trending up and left across the slabs and wide ledges. The slab with Old Soldiers has bolts and is the least rutted with cracks of the faces in the area, though it is not readily visible from the road at this parking point. As a point of reference the "huge 3rd class dihedral visible from the road" (pg.133) doesn't look 3rd class from the road, rather it has a prominent crack system that looks like it's begging to be climbed.
  • Fixed pins for the anchor on "Run Like Hell" (page 133) are missing as of late 12/01. Use small aliens or TCUs- 2 green aliens and small wires opposed work well..
  • To approach Humming Bird Buttress, park at the last paved pullout before the "boulder campsite." Walk up the road about 50-75 feet and head up drainage that trends left below the initial clifflet. Once on the top left of the initial clifflet, cut back right across it and up toward the clean buttress. To approach Z-cracks- do the same, but from the base of the start of the bolted lines, drop down and right to the toe of the buttress. Picture of the Buttresses taken from up the road from the paved pullout.
  • The route "Marty and Stu" was actually put up by Stu Pollack and Dingus Milktoast in the earlier 90's, called "Stu-Pendous" It was done ground up with a Bosch, drilling from stances on the lead. That's why there are no anchor bolts (ran out of batteries). Rumour has it the 12a rating is spot on, however it's classic 10c face climbing up a black water streak with one french free move past the 3rd bolt.
  • "Somebody's Seam" on "Ralph's" formation in the Chipmunk Flat general area has been rebolted with 3/8" bolts as of 7/19/01. Originally called "Get me a Beer."
Table Mountain:
  • NEW Major hold broke on Green Means Go - Berkeley guys repositioned bolt and added bolt for safety on a top down route.
  • Deano and Dan F. replaced the anchor for Rawhide and added chains to the Snake Bite/ Three Fingered Jack Anchor. Thx! Bolt on the Leeper hanger came out with minimal force. Watch yerself out there!
  • At the parking area there is now a toilet. Please keep the area clean.
  • Camping near to Table Mountain (note these are more anglers and water craft users sites):
  • White Room- Approach trail now navigable (Winter 04-05)
  • Word is the 10d "Informed consent" at The White Room has broken some feet, and is significantly harder. Hard 11 now is suspected.

  • Far Side: A recent (~7 or 8/2004) fire seems to have burned out much of the poison oak. The fire may have weakened bolts or loosened flakes. Use caution as always. A recent review by a local indicated there was no real damage to the wall. Though the fire will make access easier in the winter without the PO in the way.

  • The Gate is now unlocked to at least the white gate at the parking for Fissures and Far Side routes, despite "no trespassing" signs. A short walk to the original Grotto parking. There are currently pending issues between the Burea of Reclamation and the County that affect the ability to park further along. This may potentially mean better parking or road in the future. However, at this point we have what we have.

  • There is a new Bureau of Reclamation trail starting just right of the first gate that leads through some nice scenery, sometimes loosing sight of the road, but eventually rejoining the road at the second gate now marked with no parking signs. A short walk down the road from here takes you to the normal hiking approach to the Grotto. Total time on this new section of trail is under 20 minutes, with an additional 10 minutes up the hillside on the normal hiking approach."

  • Please do not use the cave just inside the Grotto as a restroom. It smells bad! Take it out the other side around the corner. This area is more open and will be flushed with winter rains. USE THE GAS STATION IN JAMESTOWN BEFORE YOU ARRIVE FOR #2.
  • Parking Beta: There is some parking at the cut off for the Fissures before the white gate. Carpool if you can. Some parking at the first gate at the end of the pavement, but don't block the road. Leave a car at the gas station/restaurants at 108 and Rawhide Rd.
  • APPROACH BETA for Far Side: After reaching the top of Table Mountain, follow the Western Rim for several hundred feet on a faint use trail, until near the distinct three oak trees are within a long stones throw of the rim. Cut across looking for a faint trail or stepping on stones and hiking single file to reduce hiking impacts to reach the "Far Side." Follow the directions down and around to left first (as facing downhill), then to the right, avoiding the false cutback right.
  • Poison Oak is prevalent, be careful and make sure to buy Tecnu. Most drug stores carry it. It can make the difference if you spend much time at the Grotto, White Room, Fissures or Far Side.
  • "Boneless Chicken" is 10d**, not 10c** as indicated. pg. 33.
  • Bolts on "Senior Project" (3rd, 5th and 6th) were moved to the right to be set in better "mother stone." Note the indication on pg. 31, 'loose.' Use long slings now! Otherwise rope drag will be dangerously bad.
  • New anchors on rim for Far Side areas. Viewing pg. 31, they are located top left of pg.
  • With the warmer temps snakes are more common at various Table Mountain areas. As another guidebook notes "It's their world, welcome to it."

Potter's Rock:

  • Rumor has it for "Hope on a Rope" a #3 'rock' can be placed in a pocket by twisting it sideways for added pro. This is below the final slab. Some have trouble getting the first opening moves. Delicate, but there.
Post Law School Wall (PLSW):
  • NEW The route "60 Meter Must," (pg. 80) may be more like 106'. Be prepared to downclimb some easy slab moves if your rope isn't stretchy.
  • This slab can bake in the afternoon sun. The road down to Potter's and PLSW should not be approached without at least some vehicular clearance. A toyota corolla can make it to Potter's, and only Potter's, but even then really slowly.
  • Rumor as it that "Hung Jury" is likely 10d. Seeking consensus.
  • "Plea Bargain" climbs right of the first bolt, clip second and stay low to traverse through to the third.
  • Rumor has it that on "Paul's Book," at Short Cracks, the start move is potentially 10a. "thin finger lieback until you get the first foot and then the stem
  • The Route "Morpheus" (pg. 89) needs a #4.5 or #5 camalot size, NOT a 4" piece as indicated, to be adequately protected. Though the move is a roof and mantle, not an offwidth.

Legoland:

  • The routes on Legoland (Inknobvious and Trinity) finish on some serious moss within their last 20 feet. Bring a couple large cams (3 and 3.5 or 4 camalot) to protect the last moves. Because of this moss, some may consider them overstarred. With more traffic, these will get better. Also, during particular times of the year, there are a considerable number wasps or yellow jackets that make this rock their home.

Herring Creek Dome:

  • As of at least 6/19/01, the route "Sea of Tranquility" on Herring Creek Dome was rebolted and retrobolted by the original First Ascent party with 3/8" SS bolts. It is now much safer and can be enjoyed, however is still runout by some standards, and is not a sport climb. Now has six bolts on first pitch. Bring small cams for first pitch.
    As of at least 6/27/01, the, still, runout bolts on the route "The Ancients" located on Herring Creek Dome were replaced with stainless steel rawl 3/8". Previously they were mank 1/4"
Burst Rock:
  • Roche Approach- After a few hundred yds is a 2 step water bar. 40' beyond this is a cluster of trees. Go left there. If you hit this sawn log, turn around.
  • NEW approach map for Burst Rock
  • Bolts shown on top of Bonafide at Green Acres DO NOT EXIST. Climb over to White Tower anchor.
  • Late September is the typical start to deer hunting season. The road out there seems to see a lot of hunters.
  • Local Tradition at Burst Rock is to replace the rocks that cover the anchor bolts. The area borders wilderness and has many hikers using the area as a vista point. This will reduce visual impact and keep us in good stead with the local land managers. Remember Wilderness Areas, whether designated or not, are a special resource. Leave No Trace Ethic applies.
  • Rumor has it that "The Prow" at Genesis (pg.57) is more like 5.9
  • Rumor has it that "White Tower" at the Left Side of Green Acres is worthy. Recommended pro to 5"
  • NEW - Baffin Island APPROACH BETA-

    "Baffin Island is plain hard to find, but worth the search. Start with an understanding that the formation is down low among trees and that it faces away from all other parts of Burst Rock. Baffin Island can seem invisible even from 100 feet away.

    There are three ways to make the approach. The first two start from the base of Burst Rock itself. From the base of either the east or north face move down talus toward a group of trees on the near edge of a field of huge boulders.This group of trees sits just behind the top of Baffin Island.

    An easier but harder to describe approach can be made from the north end of Green Acres. Start between Wheat Juice Grass and The Fun House. Go straight down low angle slabs for about 250 feet. Before the bottom of the slabs move right (south) to obvious ramps leading south and farther down (that is, toward the main part of Burst Rock). Continue gradually down and south to the top edge of a huge boulder field. Follow the edge of this field about 400 feet to the base of Baffin Island."

  • Approach to Burst old topo and description [Topo Available] From the top of Funhouse either descend to base via rap or 4th class moves. Head down and left (slightly as you face downhill). Once you hit slabs, look for a squarish groove/gully (the double dihedrals). On the left side of the gully (facing downhill still) drop down until you can access the gully via 4th class moves. Cut across and down the gully to step around the corner and gain some 3rd and then 2nd class ledges. The ledges gets progressively wider and after a couple hundred feet the prominent arete of 4 Days Off will come into view. Hopefully this will prevent unnecessary approach confusion and be a single approach method and thus reducing impact.

  • When hiking to the Burst Rock areas, the "Burst Rock Trail" is the main trailhead by the second parking lot.
  • If approaching the Gianelli Edges area, it is possible to count out 21 water berms to a two-step water berm/stair. At that point look for a grouping of several trees centered around the trail. Cut left immediately before these trees looking for cairns near the edge. When you hit the ridge-edge go West/left looking for more cairns that are sometimes there and the faint use trail that drops down the hill. Use the overview map pg. 40. My guess is that the distance to Fun house is a 1/4 mile to provide some scale to that map.
  • If approaching Green Acres, the "wooden sign post" mentioned on page 50, has been removed. It is not known who removed it. There has sporadically been a small cairn marking the point to cut left over to the gap. Refer to the overview map on page 40. If you hit the switchback you have gone a little too far. Come back to a clearing and gap in the ridge. Before heading downhill trend to the right looking for cairns or a large upright dead tree. The dead tree in the guide is located at the top of the "Fun House" however the dead tree fell over this season.'03
Lost World and Bear's Lair:
  • "Revival" consensusing at 5.9.
  • Rumor has it that "Green Monster" at Lost World is more like 11d, rather than 12a. Any differences of opinion?
  • Rumor has it that "Dirty the First Time" (pg. 100) is more like 5.11ish for the upper part of the crack rather than the indicated 10c. Any thoughts, email me?
    Rumor has it that "Darkness" is harder to lead than TR. Consensus is 11a for lead so far. Seeking consensus. Word is the flared nature of the lip of the corner, requires placements to be small and deep and with increased difficulty to place pieces from the layback position.
  • Upper pitches to you know what. (the rap is long and overhanging away from wall)
  • Lost World Approach Map