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RECOMMENDATIONS  

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Good climbs or areas that are unsung

Free climbs

  • Deadman's Curves Area-
    • Fresh- 5.11 some scruff, but good for a technical redpoint.
  • Fortress in the Sky
    • Chipmunk Rodeo- some scruff, but pretty good climbing. bit of a hump up.
    • Alvin- more scruff and some wide that you climb around, but overall a good climb. great finish thru a hand crack in a roof.
  • Z-cracks- multipitch 5.9 with fun climbing. Not uber classic, but a worthy addition to the area for sure. Nice traverse near the top.
  • Hexcentric- recently TR'd this thing. How often do you get to climb the ends of columnar basalt? But not ideal anchor conditions. Some pro is questionable.
  • Donnell's Vista is an easy last minute stop to TR and get a quick pump.
  • At the Gianelli Edges, the area called "Genesis" has a number of fun crack climbs, from the 5.5-5.10a range, with a TR 5.11 seam variant.
  • Near "Old Soldiers" is a bunch of easy granite slabs and cracks for TRing or short leads. Definitely used by the local MWTC folks. Easy approach.
    • Roadside
    • Left of "Old Soldiers"
    • Topo forthcoming in 2nd edition of guidebook
  • Table Mountain- Unique pulls for the area.
  • Burst Rock
    • Gravitron 11a TR- Technical knob pinching.
    • The White Tower 5.7- Cleanliness.
  • Herring Creek Dome
    • Saggital Crest 5.6- Good variety, if you've already done other quality lines in the area.
  • Potter's Rock
    • Potters Wheel 5.7- An honest lieback fracture.
  • So-So Slab
    • The Bar Exam 5.9- Can you pass the "bar" exam?
  • 2nd Quarry
    • Sole Food 10a- Consistently used to warm up with interesting technical moves.

Bouldering

Aid Climbs

  • Off to see the Wizard A2- i hear this is a decent aid line. Goes clean aid now.
  • Water Echo Cave A1

Camping

HIGHLY recommend getting a campfire permit, since it is required when not using existing campgrounds.

Keep in mind low impact practices when availing yourself of the ability to do 'dispersed camping' on National Forest land. Do not leave food visible in your car. Do not leave food out where critters can get to it.

Alcohol

  • Beaulieu Vineyards- 2002 or 2003 Carneros Pinot Noir- no wine snobs here, but if you like the flavor of wine. It's a good one. The cab rocksyourdome.
  • Sierra Nevada- The gold standard.
  • Red Seal Ale- North Coast Brewing Co.

Food and Fuel

  • Food: Strawberry market or Cold Springs Market when lower on highway or Dardanelle Store when higher on the highway.
  • Fuel: Cold Springs market when lower on highway (though remember Oakdale will be cheaper) or Dardanelle, higher on highway in a pinch (expensive).

Local Flavor Information

Personal Recommendation Climbs:

  • Pangea 10c*** Long and sustained. Amazing line.
  • Window Pain 5.6** Info forthcoming- Picture Here- Actually I don't recommend the climb per se as it is dangerous, seriously, but the rock is really cool to look at.
  • Sneaker Pimps 5.8 ** Easier than it looks. Corner system that starts with Gravitron but finishes straight up the corner.
  • You Insolent Peasant 5.9*** Two pitches. Knobs. Bolts. easy approach.
  • Hell Nino 10a ** Layback to thin flake and bolts above. Clean slab. TR or lower and do...
  • Hope on a Rope 10c*** Seems really hard, but it's all there. Small cams needed for flakes, and a #3 rock for a solution type pocket before the final slab.
  • Prime Rib: 10b *** An arete climb. Start to the right of the tree. Well protected with bolts. Located at Second Quarry.
  • Know Justice, No Peace: 5.8** A clean slab with bolts. A slippery move off the ramp will keep you thinking. Located at Post Law School Wall (bottom half of So-So slab).
  • Root Canal 5.9*** Spoken of in Rock and Ice. A good line. If it was at Swan Slab in the Valley it would have ten times the amount of traffic. Just one of many good lines at Frankensteins/Sonora Pass Highway area.