New Routes: (For many of the areas, topos have been generously made available by the guidebook authors and others (not just me) for some existing and some new crags that have seen significant development. However, they are not currently printer friendly. Some are however. Better and more topos will be available with the forthcoming 2nd edition of the "Sonora Pass Highway" guidebook. Regarding new routes attribution- This is not the be all and end off of FA credit. I've taken a reserved approach and adopted a "FRA" for "First Recorded Ascent" in many instances where FA info is scarce or just not know. This is meant as deferential to those that have gone before us. Once the FA credit is known, the FRA attribution is to be removed and proper credit given. In some cases, a route may be reported as an FA. This does not make it fact. It just tends to record it for future generations' sense of history until a correction can be made. If you know of the FA dates or party members or names of routes please email us or post up. We are aiming for accuracy and breadth of knowledge.

• Donnell Vista- (newly reported at least)
  • 3 Pocket TR- 5.10b or c. TR the face just left of the 5.7 Flake route using the first part of the flake to stand on. Then follow a series of 3 pockets up to the white rock scar then a slabby finish move. TR'd as early as the 70s.
  • Double Cracks Corner- 5.4 omitted from 1st edition. Located just right of the 10a finger crack. Should the new name be "Double Crack Corner, and I don't care..."
  • Old Aid Seam- likely free using arete- Located in between the 5.7 Flake and the 10a finger crack next to the tree. I seem to recall having tried this using the arete on the right with success, but that was a number of years ago. Got a rating email us or post up.
• Herring Creek Dome Area and Frankensteins
  • Herring Creek Dome
    • "Herring Bone" 5 pitch (or more) fun climb. Much easy ground. The topo doesn't indicate belays. First ascent was mostly solo, though there is ample space for gear or escapes onto easier terrain. The steep wall mid way, (Body Parts), has several good lines and stays cool with a slight breeze when the lower face can be baking in the afternoon sun. Best to top rope most of these. small to medium gear and long slings. Left to Right on Body Parts Walls:
      • Frail Flake 5.5 R Pro to 1"
      • Dos Huevos 5.5* Pro to #4 camalot
      • Diverticulitis 5.6 Pro to 1" and tie offs. Joins either Dos Huevos or Herring Bone at 3/4 height
      • Herring Bone* Star for this pitch. FA Rob Behrens and Jeff Lane
      • Emergency Tracheotomy 5.8 X one knob tie off. Crux 30' up. Tie off above crux 10'. FA Jeff Lane and Rob Behrens
      • Sagittal Crest 5.6** R Pro to 1" Exposed move stepping right once past the knobs. FA Rob Behrens and Jeff Lane
        
    • "Burly Girl" 5.7 TR the direct line below the anchors on "The Slave." FRTR- Jen Gilbert Memorial Weekend 2002.
    • "Beginning to Believe" 5.8 R/X or solo. Access a right trending horizontal crack between "The Mentor" and "The Teacher." The crux is above the crack on some slabby moves through dishes. Cross upper part of "The Mentor" finishing on easy moves (5.4 X) to the anchor for "The Slave." FA Rob Behrens solo Memorial Weekend 2002.
    • Alternative finish for Geronimos- going over headwall 30' left of "Sea of .." finish.
  • Red Herring Dihedrals- Visible above and right of Herring Creek Dome (Near the Summit of Pinecrest Peak) Approach: from top of Herring Creek Dome (i.e.after climbing it or scrambling up the side), climb easy slabs to the dihedrals just below Pinecrest Peak. Alternatively, a 4WD road leads to the top of Pinecrest Peak. From the sign at the end of the road, walk down and around to the climbs. Can rap to base of Red Herring Dihedrals and then approach the descent slabs with 2 50m ropes.
    
    • Red Herring 5.8* "Subsequent ascent rated the route 5.8…" Start up right-slanting chimney made by a huge detached block. 2/3 of the way up step out onto lichened face of block (5.3). Finish up overhanging face (5.8). From top of block ascend steep varnished overhanging face on big buckets. Belay from behind huge block at top of face. Descent: downclimb ridge (2nd & 3rd class) toward Herring Creek Dome & traverse back to base of route. Pro: include HB offset nuts, and a small (.5 or .75) camalot for the exit. FA Brutus of Wyde and Nurse Ratchett
      
    • Lakeview Arete 5.10a** Steep sustained and strenuous. On the next face to the right of Red Herring. Climb the 100-degree wall past 3 or 4 bolts to a chain anchor.Approach: scramble 3rd-class ledges to base of steep red-golden varnished wall. Descent: rap from chains at top- single rope takes you to base of the route, then downclimb ledges. Or two 60m ropes takes you to slabs at base. Beautiful view of Pinecrest Reservoir from the chains. 0.5 and 0.75 camalot useful to reach the first bolt. FA
      • The FA of the "Lakeview Arete Wall" was done on-sight, on lead with clean pro only, and named "Tradman Galoot" (5.10c R/X). Tradman Galoot goes all over the wall, wherever Neil could find placements. Starts at base of Lakeview Arete, moves far right, and then traverses left again to finish at the top of the arete. The Lakeview Arete was bolted with permission from the FA party. Read this description before trying, "Picture desperate little lunges to holds of unknown positiveness and likely dirty with lichen, on an over-vertical wall, the pro a hybrid alien placed cam-deep in a bottomed horizontal crack between varnished plates, the leader letting out little moans and gasps of fear with each successive move, as his feet scrabble and sometimes pop off, forearms melting down..." FA Neil Galoot
  • Triple Cracks- On the way to Herring Creek Dome is this short clean volcanic face with 2 cracks and a seam corner.
    • 5.9 TR "Dietchman's" Ring anchors on top.
    • 5.4 'Under the Branch' easy very short corner to blocky loose top out.
    • 5.8 'Hands and Lieback' Still dirty.
    • 5.11d 'Steep Tips' short lazer-cut splitter. Now have to use small tree to TR from- be careful for the bark. Also watch edge- sharp and loose flakes. Bolt holes still there- removed for unknown reasons in '04.
    • 5.12? Hard short steep corner. Unknown if gone yet.
  • Frankensteins
  • Dinosaurs TR variant to first pitch. Recorded clean TR ascent 10-14-07 Erik Bratton. Stays on right side of face til last bolt on first pitch of Dinosaurs.
  • [Updates from George 7/6/2006- minor historical note, these have been GR TR problems for at least 3 years. Linking Half Vital Motion to Feature Creature and the Addison Arete, creates a covenient link-up of increasing difficulty.]
    • Half Vital Motion- 10a 5 bolts. Face/slab below Mr. Ed. FA George Rekouts
    • Feature Creature- 11b 7 bolts. 80'. Face/left arete above Mr. Ed. FA George Rekouts
    • Addison Arete- 12a- 9 bolts. Arete to right of first part of rappel route. Left of "Book of Dreams". FA Tom Addison 2004
    • "Book of Dreams" 12a*** (12a onsight, 11c rehearsed redpoint?) corner system located off to the right of the rappel route/"Mr. Ed." 2 100' pitches. First pitch- the inner corner- 10d small to medium gear. Second pitch is the inner of the two upper corners; crux pitch, though the crux difficulty does not apparently run the full length of the pitch. FA Dave Clay.
    • The Upper Outer Corner- 11a- 4 bolts and small to medium gear. FA Tom Addison
    • "Perfectly Frank" 10b It's on the left side of the West Face. P1. 5.7 corner to triple cracks, 10b move to bolt belay. p2. 5.8 hand crack in golden left-facing corner, 10a wide lieback moves at top, bolt belay. P3. 5.4 diagonal crack, joining "Bermuda Triangle" past belay to trees. FA Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 10/12/2002.
    • "Flatlander" unknown, except close to "Made in the Shade."
• Potter's Road, aka 5N09X, aka Road to Donnell's
  • Potter's Rock-
    • 2nd Pitch 5.11- from ledge above Cut Corner follow incipient dirty seam. Not recommended.
    • "Low Balls" 5.10R Climb the arete to the left of Cut Corner. Offset Aliens, Ball Nutz and HB Offset brass nuts are strongly recommended FA Brutus of Wyde, Nurse Ratchett.
    Post Law School Wall- "No Exfoliation Without Representation" 5.8 * 6 bolts 120feet ! Belay on anchors for "Hung Jury" pg. 81. The route starts left of small tree left of tree in topo on pg 81. The route trends right and up through scoops (3 bolts), then cuts back left following the natural weaknesses, and up and right to join "Hung Jury" (3 bolts). FA Rob Behrens and Jeff Lane 5/11/02
  • So-So Slab- 5.9 TR to the right of "The Bar Exam." More or less straight up through cleaner area of rock. Possibly FA was by Rob Behrens the year after the The Bar Exam FA went in.
  • Atlantis Wall- Sirens of the Stanislaus (V, 5.10 C2) [Topo]
    • Full write up and pics on Summit Post
• Table Mountain Areas
  • Grotto:
    • “Welcome All”- 5.11b/c 10 bolts. Located just right of “Welcome Mat” and left of “Keeblers Revenge.” Hooks for top anchors. FA John Robinson 3/05.
    • "Cowboy Up" 5.8? 5.9? 3 bolts, shares anchor with "Side Saddle" on Ort Wall. Old TR problem. FA Matt Schlueter and Daniel Forbes 5/04
    • "Grey Matter" 10b (? # of bolts) 100' to right of "Chicken Ranch Bingo" and to the right of big chimney by Welcome Wall. FA Howard Painter.
  • Eastern Front
    • A series of nice additions to the Grotto area. Cracks to some bolt protected moves. See Topo. [Topo Available]
      
    • Hard Times at the Winkin' Lantern- 11b- bolts and single green alien. Apparently stout face moves lead to thin crack and then it eases in difficulty past the roof to more bolts. (project or #8 listed in the topo)
    • D.C. Angel Cat- 10b- bolts. stemming, and jug for the roof. Located further left.
  • Far Side- (Described as approached from the trail)
    • Far Side- Right
      • "Swine and Cheese" 10d* # bolts? To the right of "Where Bovines Dare." A good line with two cruxes and a weird position for the finishing anchor move. Some poison oak below anchor.
      • "Rub its Belly" 10d* 8 bolt line between "Boneless Chicken" and "Where Bovines Dare." The name is derived from a mishap with a rattlesnake, fortunately no one was hurt.
    • Senior Wall [Topo] Thx BY
      • "Depends" 5.8, 60ft. 5 bolt line two routes to the right of Senior Citizen, or as approached from the trail the first bolted line after the Waterfall route. Large 'spike' on lower right of topo on pg. 31 was trundled as too loose. "Depends" climbs the position of where the tower was.
        • variant 5.10 TR straight up from second bolt, bulging crack. pro to 1" if leading??? FRA Lance?
      • "Assisted Living" 5.9* Bolted line. Of the two routes to the right of Senior Citizen, this is the left one, the other is "Depends." That is to say, it is the 2nd bolted line after the Waterfall route. The 3rd, 4th and 5th bolted lines are Senior Citizen, Senior Project, and Luc Skywalker respectively.
      • "Fat Don't Fly"** 10b Six bolt line with light brown hangers. This is the 6th bolted line on the wall. The route trends right around the roof and then back left over the top of it and goes into a couple more bolts trending back right again to end on anchors to the left. A good line with a nice pull around the roof.
      • "Senior Moment" 5.10(a) or (b)* Six bolt line with first five hangers painted brown. Some tricky moves to the same anchors as "Fat Don't Fly."
      • "Aztec" 5.10a *
    • "Half Wit" 5.9 * Bolted line between project "F" on pg. 30 and the left side of Senior Wall (Aztec) It is a few hundred feet right of "F" and a hundred or so feet left of Senior Wall. To approach from Senior Wall, go back out and around the bushes and head to the left side of the wall. There is something of a use trail.
    • More Info
  • Two Mile Bar - "The not so super, mossy, dirty, bird shity, poison oaky crack of the sonora pass" 5.10 hellish 45 min approach? 25' tall.
  • The Flatiron - private property - good chance of getting your car hood axed. FA Dingus 93-94, but evidence of climbing found aka pins. 2 routes. star dryvs. mentioned for historical purposes only.
  • Gateway Rocks - Snake Crack 5.9 formation west of 108/120 junction. "I believe we either ran into a snake or thought we would, hence the name." FA Stu Pollock and Marty Garrison [i think this is on private property now- mentioned for historical purposes only- Munge]
• Mid-Hwy Areas
  • Quickie Mart (odometer reading is off in guidebook, use 1.3)
    • Big Gulp- 5.8 crack to flare that isn't as bad as it looks, but it is as dirty, big finish moves. The prominent crack on the left side of the formation. 2 bolt anchor. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland July 16, 2005.
    • The Ramp- 5.8* 2 bolts to a hand crack thru a roof. 2 bolt anchor. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 7, 2005.
    • Unknown Toprope- 5.10* 2 bolt anchor. On the right side of the main formation.
    • Shredded Cheese- 5.9ow Direct start to A Carton of Milk. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
  • Kiddie Corral - Directly across the highway from the Quickie Mart is a large dirt pull out. Drive around a dirt hill to a camp site. From the camp site walk down the gully a few hundred feet. On the right will be seen a low angle slab. descend off left easy 5th class or walk back and around to a gully on the right. Bring long slings to tie off tree or rock 'pommel' for anchors.
    • Girl Howdy: 5.6 2 bolts- Start in the easy flakes and cracks left of Rodeo, then slabs to the top, belaying from the Pommel. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
    • Rodeo: 5.8. 3 bolts, located in the middle of the slab. Traverses in from the right to interesting slab crux. (variant "Rodeo Sex"- direct is hard 10) FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
    • My Little Pony: 5.4- 3-bolt slab. Near the right hand edge of the slab. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
    • Pony Espresso: 5.8. Pro: stoppers to a large camalot. Some fun OW is encountered. Located up and right from the main Kiddie Corral slab is this short dihedral.FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
  • The Egg
    • Just left of the Egg is a formation with a neat thin 5.9 flake that starts off in 15' of moss. FRA Juice? gear? length? From the ledge the flake is good. unknown FL.
    • on the short formation above and behind the egg, boulder up the blocs then walk/climb to a right trending ramp to the right of two chimneys. 5.3
  • Legoland
    • A Glitch in the Matrix 5.9 R: * Located at Legoland to the right of Trinity and Morpheus starts. First part goes through knobs and protects with small wires and micro cams. 5.6 ish. It goes more or less straight up over the small roof, through more knobs. It joins the ramp on Morpheus. An alternate belay should be set here for reduced drag. Take the obvious left slanting crack. A flared #3.5 camalot works well right after this crux. 5.9. Before the crack seems to join Trinity, go up and right onto an unprotected slab 5.7 R (could use a bolt here). Step right and move up underneath the wide crack. The crack protects with a #4 camalot and a #1 camalot. 5.6 A fun and challenging route. FA Rob Behrens David Sawaya pre 2001?
• Burst Rock Areas
  • Green Cliff
    • Wherever I May Roam 5.9+ R 3 pitches.no bolts. GU OS 250-300' tall. Dean Fleming, Dan Forbes FA 9/8/07
  • Facing Away Cliff 50'
    • Jemstone 5.9 * perfect hand to finger splitter on the far right end. GU OS Dean Fleming, Dan Forbes FA 9/8/07
    • Jewel of Denile 5.8 * finger crack to roof/arete. GU OS Dean Fleming, Dan Forbes FA 9/8/07
  • East Face (right side)-
    • “Thrust and Throb” 10c? FA- Greg, Matt and Joel. 5.9 hand crack to 10a stemming for the first pitch. Pitch 2 is an overhanging hand crack at 10c.
    • “Up and Over” 10d? FA- Joel and Brad 8/20/05. 5.8 corner to a thin traverse.
  • Baffin Island- 10b TR to the left of "Two Fine Attributes" and right of "The Cutting Edge." Use anchor on "Two Fine Attributes."
  • Upper Edge- "E.R.T.R" and other routes Topo. Trip Report and origin of name of same (PDF)
  • North Face- "Up to your elbows" 10a. Joins Claymation anchors via horizontal traversing fist crack.
  • Slab- Located above the far right side of Funhouse. Or on your left as you walk to the top of Fun House from Burst Rock trail...you would be above it.
    • "No-Bolt Insurance" 5.7/5.8 X or TR. Slab. This short clean low angle slab is above and behind the Fun House as you face the cliffs (on the left as you approach the cliffs). Drop down the right side of the cliff from the top. At the base, from the middle of the face go up on knobs and edges trending right to a horizontal seam. TR is possible with 30' of sling off boulder. FA Rob Behrens solo
  • Fun House
    • "Sneaker Pimps" 5.8 ** Pro to 4" The corner to the right of "Slap Stick" and "Gravitron." Two cruxes. Everything is on. Lowe Tri Cams or hexes for pods work best. I think a #9 hex would work well. A #8 worked. FA Rob Behrens and Brad Young July 30, 2002
  • Green Acres
    • "Heady on Disorder" 5.10a or b TR.The arete to the right of "Hog Trough" climbing the left side. possibly done before 9/19/03 by Jim Lundeen, et. al.
    • "Steve and Emma corner" 5.4 The short low angle right facing corner to the right of "Hog Trough" sort of as drawn on pg. 51. Variant climb just the right side of the arete. possibly done before 9/19/03, otherwise Steve and Emma.
  • Gianelli Edges
    • Roche Edges (main Roche area) - Updated Topo (below 2 routes not shown).
      • Tom Frost 4 bolt route
      • Dream of White Water- ? TR. Follows tan and white areas 10-12' right of Tom Frost route on far right side of Roche Edge.
    • Highest Roche Edge - Updated Photo Topo [old Topo also Available]
      • Sugar Honey Iced Tea 5.10+ (TR) "A" in the photo topo.
      • You Guys Decide 5.6* FA Chris Williams Sept. 7-8 2001. Spread Eagle crack variation at left (5.6) Tom Slater and Tod Tomlinson Pro to 4 "B" in the photo topo.
      • Iron Eagle 5.7** Pro to #3 camalot (+ yellow and orange metolius). FA Tom
        Slater and Tod Tomlinson, 9/2006. Not shown in the topo. Located to the right of You Guys Decide/Green Dihedral, climb the rounded arete outside of the dihedral. It is its own line, you don't touch the dihedral crack (all face moves), instead use three horizontal cracks for gear (3rd one kind of a sporty run) Anchor off of blocks 15' back and to the right. Pro to #3 camalot. "C" in the photo topo.
      • Duct Tape Doggy 5.9 *** Pro to #2 camalot. FTR Jeremy Schroeder Sept. 7-8 2001. Straight in hand jams to horizontal ledges. This is a separate formation from Roche and Highest Edge. Anchor is tree 20 feet back. FLA Tom Slater and Tod Tomlinson, 9/2006
      • Provolone 10c TR- face 6-8' right of Duct Tape Doggies. FTRA Jeremy Schroeder Sept. 7-8 2001
      • "beautiful (but dirty, they all were) 5.10a finger jam/ lie back" FTRA Jeremy Schroeder Sept. 7-8 2001
    • Upper Roches
      • Matrix- Left of Lani's Leap FA Stacy Schroeder and Jim McConachie 9/14/03
      • Easy Finish Corner- Right of Lani's Leap. FA Dave Hardin and Royal Robbins 9/13/03
    • Genesis- TR variations
      • Face between Webelo Crack and Cub Scout crack. TR. 5.9/10a? Crux at top. Propose name "Bill told us (they climbed it last year)."
    • Numbers Edge- above Genesis (several harder variations also)
      • Frosty fingers TR-follows a diagonal crack to near the edge of the face and then goes straight up. FA Dave Hardin and Royal Robbins 9/13/03
      • Dipsy Doodle TR-goes up the outside corner on the right

• Second Quarry, Bear's Lair and Lost World
  • Russian Wall Area- Thx to George and Vitaly for sharing the below info! Developers: George Rekouts and Vitaly Birukov during ~2005 season. Disclaimer: info below could be potentially wrong and/or incomplete. Climb at your own risk. And keep in mind this is a brand new spot so be ready for plenty of dirt.
  • Approach- Follow Sonora Pass Climbing book directions to Second Quarry - Prime Rib and then
    descend straight down and a bit to the left (about 50 yards). Search for the anchors at the top of the wall. Rappel down or follow a faint trail farther left (west) to descend to the base. Wall is north facing and gets some sun after 2pm (still plenty of shade from the trees). Almost all routes could be easily top-roped with 60m rope, look for most east top rappel anchor to reach two east mid-face anchors.[this area can also be approached from nearer the parking area- instead of going uphill on the normal 2nd quarry approach, contour left downhill around the hill skirting the scraggly looking crags on your left. -Rob]

    Left (East) Side routes, left to right

  a) Bear Trap, 5.10 c/d, 75'
  Squeeze chimney to arête to the anchors, 8 bolts.
  b) Sick Squirrel, 5.11a, 75'
  Right facing dihedral and face and then transition to the left onto a knobby face to the anchors, 9 bolts
  c) Animal Clinic, 5.10d, 70'
  Start with the dihedral as above, continue up the knobby face and then traverse right on the top knobs and finish on the crack, 8 bolts
  d) Lost Colibri, 5.11c, 70'
  Start with the dihedral and traverse right by the 3-rd bolt on the dike to reach start of the vertical tips/finger crack to the anchor, 7 bolts, optional pro 1.5-3"
  e) Woodpecker Chick, 5.10c, 70'
  Follow obvious waving crack to the anchors, pro .5-4"
  f) Senior Frog, 5.8, 90'
  Start in the corner left of BBB and then follow natural line/crack to the top, pro .5-2.5"
  g) Big Brown Bat, 10b, 85'
  Vertical dike in the middle of the face, traverse left by the third bolt to the flake and finish with face and horizontal cracks to the top, 8 bolts
  h) Ants in the House, 11c/d, 80'
  Right side of the face, start with the flake then traverse right on the knobs and follow arête and knobs to the top, don't miss additional holds around arête. 8 bolts

  Right (West) Side routes, left to right

b) Fourth of July, 5.9+, 75'
Balancy start to a flake to fun knobs and horizontal cracks to the anchors below roof, pro 0.5-3" and three bolts
c) Born on the Fourth of July, 5.11a, 75'
Start with the obvious slightly overhanging flake, follow arête above and then short traverse left to the anchors, pro .75-3" and 4 bolts
d) Fire Permit, 5.11c, 90'
Crack in the middle of the face to a bulge to the delicate face and another bulge, pro 1-2" and 5 bolts
e) No Fireworks, 5.10d, 85'
Arête and small knobs on the right facing wall to the ledge and flake and arête to the anchors, 6 bolts, optional 1-2"
g) Deep Impact, 5.11a/b, 75'
Thin start to a dramatic thin hands crack thru the 8' roof and easy finish to the anchors, pro 0.5-3" and 1 bolt

• "Etude a la Hoe" 5.10a [Topo Available] 150' Two bolts to protect the entry, then pro to 9 inches. Walk off the top. Location: about 75' right of the anchor chains of Magical Pigs is a big block perched on a pedestal. The route starts just right of the block.
• "HorseRadish" (?) 3 bolts and pro to 10" Starts on top of "Prime Rib" and traverses right to wide crack. Rap down over "Liquid Chicken" from 2 bolt anchor at the top of the wide crack.
• "Power Within"*** 5.11d Starts where fixed copperhead is indicated on page 94, right of "Liquid Chicken." Exposed climbing up high. Pro to 2" and six bolts. Pass the bolt to the left/downward facing flare to arete to its own 2 bolt anchor.
• "If not for Noel" 5.11a*(*?) Arete left of "Sole Food," joins same at its sixth bolt.
• Lost World- Much new route activity. Ask around if you climb their regularly. Currently word of mouth updates. Look for revised topos in a 2nd edition guidebook.
• Bear's Lair:
• Allen's Crack??? 10b- Climb the crack just to the left (4 ft) of
  the 1st pitch of Dead and Buried. The crux is a nice commiting lie back.
  Takes good pro. Put up and cleaned by Allen Currano. There are chains at the top and it is a 125 foot rappel." Two more have lead it that I'm aware of (8/03), they stayed left of the crack using finger jams, etc. and are seeing it come in at 10b. Try it and see how it goes, then post up.
• Kennedy Meadows areas
  • Solar Vixen Area
    • Solar Vixen 5.10a/b ** 4 bolts set of Aliens (Gr, Yellow, Red) to #2 Camelot (you can see it in the these photos- approach by traversing ridge West from first established scenic overlook above Kennedy Meadows Resort. Or climb Diamond Cutter Buttress up and over) 'Climb a prominent arch surmount the tiny roof (1st crux) and continue up the slab following the bolt line. The next crux is just above the 3rd bolt - traversing right. The route is very similar to Tuolomne Meadow knob climbs. The Vixen is a little run out because it was stance bolted. All moves are solid between each bolt." FFA Tim Tuomey, Paul and Eva 7/29 or 30/2006. Style: GU
  • Diamond Cutter Buttress Topo 60m rope!
    • Right Wing Odyssey 5.8** Chimney. Pro small to #3. FFA Tim Tuomey, Nick S., Paul H.and Bob
    • Diamond Cutter Direct (aka The Groove) 5.9+/5.10- Chimney. Pro small to #3. FFA Tim Tuomey, Nick S., Paul H.and Bob Kuykendall.
• Chipmunk Flat and further up the highway
• Fortress in the Sky [Topo Available] near Pink Cliffs- see topo. FAs by Tim Tuomey.
  • Firefight in Khafji 5.10
  • Battle at Medina Ridge 10a/b
  • Chipmunk Rodeo 10b
  • Alvin 5.10
  • Theodore 5.10
  • Shoemaker Levy 9 10b OW
  • Recon indoctrination 11b
  • Darkness at the Break of Noon 10a
• Deadman's Creek Area
• First Buttress Area
  • If we were only as good as we thought we were A3+ (C3+?) No pins or bolts used on FA. "The climb is located about the middle of the cliffs on a 3 tier wall. It looks like giant stair steps. It follows a very thin non connected crack system for about 2/3 of the way up. The top 1/3 is all hooks with one #1 BD micro stopper that I shaved down with a file. The top anchor is a tree that looks like its days are numbered." FA Sgt Brandon Shofner. July 2002. [believed to be on first buttress but haven't heard from Sgt. Shofner since then.]
  • Chockstone Chimney "Dale Kaiser told me he and his son climbed it in the early 70's named the climb Chockstone Chimney 5.9 if I remember correctly but that was 25 years ago so take it for what it is worth. Jeff"
  • Eye of the Needle (5.10+)
    • 5 pitches. FA Steve Shields, Mei Xi and Allen Currano May 30-31, 2004- located 100' down the gully from "What Is". Full trip report and pics on Mei's site.
      • Pitch 1: 5.6 very loose!!!
      • Pitch 2: starts with a diagonal crack and easier terrain to a roof which involvs lie-backing and high stepping. Above that fairly blank with a very thin and shallow crack, about 30 feet long, running up. RP's to protect this section. Steve thought this pitch deserves at least a 5.10+.
      • Pitch 3: 100 feet of 4th class to a vertical wall with a crack system shooting straight up.
      • Pitch 4: The crack is again thin on this pitch, and also has a roof. 195 ft pitch with a 5.10+ rating.
      • Pitch 5: Short pitch. Taking the left corner that starts with a diagonal hand crack and leads into a wide but protectable chimney is 5.8 and the original line of ascent. There is one in the middle that is even wider with a huge drop right at the base. Then one on the right side with the first 25 feet of face climbing without a crack and then a thin crack that leads to the top. Steve top roped the thin crack to the right and considered it fit the character of the whole climb better. It just needs a bolt to protect the first 25 feet.
• Juniper Ledges Area
  • Coup de Etat 5.11a?, 85'. Gear to 1.75", two each cams to .6", medium nuts. FA Jerry Dodrill 11/08/07. FTR Jerry Dodrill 3 months prior.
    • Beta: From the top of Township Rebellion, take the path up and slightly right, past a big juniper, to the base of another formation. You'll see the base platform area below beautiful off-vertical lieback flakes which turn into a tips crack. When they run out, pull over the bulge on knobs and dance up a slab, clipping two bolts. Save a blue alien. You'll find rap/lower chains on the big ledge. A 30' .10a splitter crack at the left edge of the ledge takes you to the top, where you can rap back to the chains/ledge from the fat branch of a huge juniper. One rope is all you need.
• Humming Bird Buttress (overview of whole area)
  • "Diamond's Edge" located on the left arete from "One fine day." (OFD) Greg Barnes, et.al.mid to late 90s
  • "OFD variant"? TR Variant straight up from the 6th bolt or so on OFD. Greg Barnes, et.al.mid to late 90s
  • "Thinner" TR variant to OFD, straight up from 3rd bolt on OFD. Named so since the edges kept getting thinner. Greg Barnes, et.al. mid to late 90s
  • "Hooey" TR 10+ A direct variation on "Let the Guilty Hang" that goes straight up from the start, fun climbing but short. Greg Barnes, et.al. mid to late 90s
  • "Violence inherent in the system" TR 10b/c? Start right of "You insolent peasant" and go up to small bulge, going basically up. It's hard not to use a few holds on "You insolent peasant" but you soon cross that route in any event and go straight up staying just right of the seam and only crossing it at the top where you join the last 4-5' of "One Fine Day." The crux is in the last 20' before joining "One Fine Day." Greg Barnes, et. al. probably, otherwise Rob Behrens, Jeff Lane, 9/22/02.
  • Left Side- Hummingbird Picture Topo
    • Homeland Security- 5.7 Is it too small and to hollow to provide security? left facing corner lieback capped by a tree. Exit left under tree. Wide gear for pro. Approach pitch for "Pogo Stick." FA 6/14/03? Jeff Lane, Rob Behrens likely done before, per the FA team
• Grey Roof Area -Picture Topo -
  • Pogo Stick- 5.6* Just hop on up. The right facing corner, left of the slab that is capped by the giant roof. At the top exit via face on left or dirty wide crack on right. Anchor on tree with slings. Rap here or use 2 bolt anchor rap on "Grey Roof Indirect." FA 6/14/03? Rob Behrens, Jeff Lane, likely done before.
  • Fudgestripe TR, 10c Variant to "Grey Roof Indirect." start next to corner and follow faint black streak to 2nd horn. Join "Grey Roof Indirect" but at the top use the arete on the left. Shares same anchor. FTR Jeff Lane 6/14/03
  • Grey Roof Direct- TR 5.10d? 11a?* Start just left of shallow dihedral and right of Fudgestripe. Go more or less up to meet first horn, stand up onto slab, up positive holds on slab under giant roof. Turn roof on left where slab meets roof, with long reach. 2 bolt anchor/rap. FTR Rob Behrens 6/14/03
  • Grey Roof InDirect 5.7* Start at small pine going up flakes to the shallow dihedral, step right into the bottom of the big "Right Corner" but clip two bolts going up the face on easy ground. At a big ledge a sm/md nut and a blue TCU can be used to protect some more moderate moves to another bolt out left. Small nuts and small cams protect the move exiting left. (a direct finish is in the works)
  • Grey Roof- Right corner- unknown- fixed friend up high under roof with old tattered sling
    • Descend these routes by rap, then scramble over to top of main Hummingbird Buttress. 1 60 m will get you down first rap from atop "Pogo Stick", after scramble across, two raps on a single 60m rope from atop Hummingbird Buttress proper gets to the base.
• Forefathers' Wall- Picture Topo
  • Penstemmon Pillar, 10a/b FA Dingus Milktoast, Tom Oatman, sport route, 8 bolts to the chains, note: 2nd clip is a grounder if you screw up. Last moves to the bolt are like 4th class, not hard at all.
  • Lactation Corner 5.7 FA Brutus of Wyde, Dingus Milktoast, 9/27/03, so named for a torn shirt and some bare breasted action., pro to 4 camelot, optional 4.5 camelot. Mostly a wide crack.
  • Midas 5.10 FA Dingus Milktoast, Brutus of Wyde 10/26/03, sport route, 9 bolts to chains, small cam and a nut to protect opening moves to 1st bolt. Quality, continuous climbing, first move to last. Possible to rap from chains with one 50m rope.
  • Wagon Train, FA Brutus of Wyde, trad, 5.9 pro to 12 inches (seriously, nothing smaller than 6 inches used on FA). Take some smaller pro for the belay.
  • Tag Team Down the same wall from "Stu-pendous" (aka Marty and Stu) is a route called Tag Team, 10a. It's at the bottom of the Stupendous wall (now called Forefathers' Wall) and would be the first longer crack route encountered going up the gully. It starts out in a short corner at the right bottom of a clean smooth face broken by a right to left rising horizontal crack with a very small bush growing from it midwall. Climb the corner, traverse out onto the face past the bush to another crack, straight up to the top from there. Pro - standard rack to #4 camelot. There are a couple of OW moves higher up that *might* warrant a #4.5, but FA party never used one (climbed several times). There is one bolt below the OW to protect the entry moves into the wide country. It's a 5/16 button head split shaft placed on the lead, circa 93 or so. Chain anchor. Tom Oatman and Dingus Milktoast.
  • Tag Team Direct has also been done, led by Tom Oatman. "10c is what he called it I think, and added that he'd never do it that way again. The first bit is somewhat decomposed and difficult to protect."
  • Pin Route Between Tag Team and Stupendous is another route. A fixed pin indicates the route was put in pre- 90s. Goes up a hard but indistinct corner, pulls a minor roof (that's where the pin was), reaches a huge flake that booms, traverse left around corner, set belay. P2 goes up moderate 5.9 crack to top. Name unknown.FA unknown, fixed Lost Arrow at crux, 10d, 2 pitches, trad.
  • Coyote Crack 5.9+, perhaps 10a. Hybrid in that two rappel placed bolts protect the face moves to gain the crack. FA Angus and Dingus
• Deadman's Curves Area
  • Fresh Cut Block area
    • Crack is for kids 5.3 * Layback to ledge then to the tree. Scramble off left. FRA Rob Behrens 8/6/05, but obvious fracture, probably done before.
    • Easy Street 5.5 on the face left of the below route. follows left facing seam. FRA Evan Rosenberg, et. al. 8/12/05?
    • Dirty but unique 5.5? grab both sides of the flake that is probably just barely nestled into the big corner FRA Evan Rosenberg, Rob Behrens 8/6/05.
    • Fresh 5.11b(?) * 4 bolts and some medium stoppers. Some scruff but mostly stabilized. FA Rob Behrens 6/25/06. (style = TD) The main line for this area located on the square cut block with whiteish coloring.
    • Busko's wild ride 10b balancey moves and joins the below 5.7 at 3/4 height. FTR Rob Behrens
    • Cool Mantle 5.7 pro to 1" FRA Rob Behrens, Evan Rosenburg 8/6/05.
      • Gear for anchors on the last 3 climbs above need 20' of sling, 1 ea #1camalot, 2 ea .75 camalots, and small to medium aliens.
  • The Fun Area- Picture Topo letters line up to topo
    • "A" Put Put Mini-Golfer's route 5.7* 3 bolts on arete. ~40' Short, but quality knobs. FA Rob Behrens, Evan Rosenberg 7/1/06. (GU)
    • Unseen Corner 5.5 ~40' Pro to 3 camalot. Right facing dihedral with knobs on face to right. A bit mossy in spots, but nothing a hundred ascents won't eventually clean up. FRA Chris Iezzoni, Jeff Lane -weekend of 6/24/06- another obvious corner and likely done before.
    • "B" Alligator Lizard route 5.9 ' ~45' TR rock up, then knobs, to small cracks above. Anchor from gear straight above or use tree anchor for below route.
    • "C" Everybody Stance 5.6 * ~50' 2 bolts and pro to #1 camalot. rock up on good knobs, follow two bolts to bottom of seam. stuff a piece in the right hand (.75 camalot) crack but continue straight up. FA Evan Rosenberg, Rob Behrens 7/2/06.
  • Predecessor Cracks Area - Picture Topo letters line up to topo
    • "A" Predecessor Crack left- 5.5* 30' short, solid fun hand crack. #3 camalots useful if anchoring right above corner. FRA Rob Behrens, Chris Iezzoni 6/24/06 Likely done before.
    • "B" Predecessor Crack right- 5.5 25' same start but go up right hand crack. FRA Chris Iezzoni, Rob Behrens 6/24/06. Likely done before.
    • "C" Bratton Down the Hatches- 5.10d? 35' TR crack to alcove to hidden jug to chicken wing move. TR it from tree that can be used to get down from Predecessor Cracks. FTR Rob Behrens 6/24/2006
    • "D" Easy fingers 5.4* pro to 3 camalot; ironic no? clean fingers lead to finishing moves on below spire. FRA Rob Behrens 7/1/2006, it wouldn't surprise me if this had been done before.
    • "E" Steeple Spire 5.5** 3 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. 30' - use all knobs and left edge to top. variant- left edge off is 5.8. FRA Evan Rosenburg and Rob Behrens. FTR Patrick Bratton TR variant right side, starting on face just around corner, then join main face staying on right side is a few moves at around hard 5.10 (FTR E.R.). Backside- TR off of same anchor. Using ramp and edge, or not. Easy.
    • 5.4 no pro. On separate formation to the right of above routes. 30' follow knobs on grainy face to easier ground above, staying right of a large perched block. Descend down chimney on left side of this small formation. FRA Rob Behrens 7/1/2006, probably done before as it's piss easy.
  • S Crack and Roadside Roof Area
    • Roadside Roof 5.8? pro to 2" Maybe easier if it cleans up some. 35'. corner and right trending roof. Just past Burly Dude on the East side of the Hwy facing the road. FRA- Chris Iezzoni and Rob Behrens 6/24/2006, but again likely done before as it is right next to the road and is a prominent but small roof.
  • East Bound Crags
    • More Surly, than Burly 5.10a TR. Face right of "Burly Dude." (pg 13
• Miscellaneous
  • Dardanelle Cone
    • 3rd Class Chimney/Chute FA Bob Burd 8/15/2002
    • Trip Report "the rocks I was climbing on would frequently disintegrate in my hands. It was kind of fun really."
  • Other Areas in the Stanislaus NF