New Routes:
(For many of the areas, topos have been generously made available by the
guidebook authors and others (not just me) for some existing and some
new crags that have seen significant development. However, they are not
currently printer friendly. Some are however. Better and more topos will be available with
the forthcoming 2nd edition of the "Sonora Pass Highway" guidebook.
Regarding new routes attribution- This is not the be all and end off of FA credit. I've taken a reserved approach and adopted a "FRA" for "First Recorded Ascent" in many instances where FA info is scarce or just not know. This is meant as deferential to those that have gone before us. Once the FA credit is known, the FRA attribution is to be removed and proper credit given. In some cases, a route may be reported as an FA.
This does not make it fact. It just tends to record it for future generations'
sense of history until a correction can be made. If you know of the FA dates or party members or names of
routes please email us or post up. We are aiming for accuracy and breadth of knowledge.
Donnell Vista- (newly reported at least)
3 Pocket TR- 5.10b or c. TR the face just left of the 5.7 Flake
route using the first part of the flake to stand on. Then follow
a series of 3 pockets up to the white rock scar then a slabby finish
move. TR'd as early as the 70s.
Double Cracks Corner- 5.4 omitted from 1st edition. Located just
right of the 10a finger crack. Should the new name be "Double
Crack Corner, and I don't care..."
Old Aid Seam- likely free using arete- Located in between the
5.7 Flake and the 10a finger crack next to the tree. I seem to recall
having tried this using the arete on the right with success, but
that was a number of years ago. Got a rating email us or post up.
Herring
Creek DomeArea and Frankensteins
Herring Creek Dome
"Herring Bone" 5 pitch (or more) fun climb. Much easy
ground. The topo doesn't indicate belays. First ascent was mostly solo, though there
is ample space for gear or escapes onto easier terrain. The steep
wall mid way, (Body Parts), has several good lines and stays cool
with a slight breeze when the lower face can be baking in the afternoon
sun. Best to top rope most of these. small to medium gear and long slings. Left to Right on Body Parts Walls:
Frail Flake 5.5 R Pro to 1"
Dos Huevos 5.5* Pro to #4 camalot
Diverticulitis 5.6 Pro to 1" and tie offs. Joins either
Dos Huevos or Herring Bone at 3/4 height
Herring Bone* Star for this pitch. FRA Rob Behrens and Jeff Lane
Emergency Tracheotomy 5.8 X one knob tie off. Crux 30' up. Tie
off above crux 10'. FRA Jeff Lane and Rob Behrens
Sagittal Crest 5.6** R Pro to 1" Exposed move stepping
right once past the knobs. FA Rob Behrens and Jeff Lane
"Burly Girl" 5.7 TR the direct line below the anchors
on "The Slave." FRTR- Jen Gilbert Memorial Weekend 2002.
"Beginning to Believe" 5.8 R/X or solo. Access a right
trending horizontal crack between "The Mentor" and "The
Teacher." The crux is above the crack on some slabby moves through
dishes. Cross upper part of "The Mentor" finishing on easy
moves (5.4 X) to the anchor for "The Slave." FA Rob Behrens solo Memorial Weekend 2002.
Jenn's Hooked 5.7* bolts to 2 bolt anchor rap. gear, cams to 1.5" for crack. Crosses The Ancients
Alternative finish for Geronimos- going over headwall 30' left of
"Sea of .." finish.
Red Herring Dihedrals- Visible above and right of Herring Creek
Dome (Near the Summit of Pinecrest Peak) Approach: from top of Herring
Creek Dome (i.e.after climbing it or scrambling up the side), climb
easy slabs to the dihedrals just below Pinecrest Peak. Alternatively,
a 4WD road leads to the top of Pinecrest Peak. From the sign at the
end of the road, walk down and around to the climbs. Can rap to base
of Red Herring Dihedrals and then approach the descent slabs with
2 50m ropes.
Red Herring 5.8* "Subsequent ascent rated the route
5.8 " Start up right-slanting chimney made by a huge
detached block. 2/3 of the way up step out onto lichened face
of block (5.3). Finish up overhanging face (5.8). From top of
block ascend steep varnished overhanging face on big buckets.
Belay from behind huge block at top of face. Descent: downclimb
ridge (2nd & 3rd class) toward Herring Creek Dome & traverse
back to base of route. Pro: include HB offset nuts, and a small
(.5 or .75) camalot for the exit. FA Brutus of Wyde and Nurse Ratchett
Lakeview Arete 5.10a** Steep sustained and strenuous. On the
next face to the right of Red Herring. Climb the 100-degree wall
past 3 or 4 bolts to a chain anchor.Approach: scramble 3rd-class
ledges to base of steep red-golden varnished wall. Descent: rap
from chains at top- single rope takes you to base of the route,
then downclimb ledges. Or two 60m ropes takes you to slabs at
base. Beautiful view of Pinecrest Reservoir from the chains. 0.5
and 0.75 camalot useful to reach the first bolt.
FA
The FA of the "Lakeview Arete Wall" was done on-sight,
on lead with clean pro only, and named "Tradman Galoot"
(5.10c R/X). Tradman Galoot goes all over the wall, wherever
Neil could find placements. Starts at base of Lakeview Arete,
moves far right, and then traverses left again to finish at
the top of the arete. The Lakeview Arete was bolted with permission
from the FA party. Read this description before trying, "Picture
desperate little lunges to holds of unknown positiveness and
likely dirty with lichen, on an over-vertical wall, the pro
a hybrid alien placed cam-deep in a bottomed horizontal crack
between varnished plates, the leader letting out little moans
and gasps of fear with each successive move, as his feet scrabble
and sometimes pop off, forearms melting down..." FA Neil
Galoot
Triple Cracks- On the way to Herring Creek Dome is
this short clean volcanic face with 2 cracks and a seam corner.
5.9 TR "Dietchman's" Ring anchors on top.
5.4 'Under the Branch' easy very short corner to blocky loose
top out.
5.8 'Hands and Lieback' Still dirty.
5.11d 'Steep Tips' short lazer-cut splitter. Now have to use small
tree to TR from- be careful for the bark. Also watch edge- sharp
and loose flakes. Bolt holes still there- removed for unknown reasons
in '04.
5.12? Hard short steep corner. Unknown if gone yet.
Frankensteins
Dinosaurs TR variant to first pitch. Recorded clean TR ascent 10-14-07 Erik Bratton. Stays on right side of face til last bolt on first pitch of Dinosaurs.
[Updates from George 7/6/2006- minor historical note, these have been GR TR problems for at least 3 years. Linking Half Vital Motion to Feature Creature and the Addison Arete, creates a covenient link-up of increasing difficulty.]
Half Vital Motion- 10a 5 bolts. Face/slab below Mr. Ed. FA George Rekouts
Feature Creature- 11b 7 bolts. 80'. Face/left arete above Mr. Ed. FA George Rekouts
Addison Arete- 12a- 9 bolts. Arete to right of first part of rappel route. Left of "Book of Dreams". FA Tom Addison 2004
"Book of Dreams" 12a*** (12a onsight, 11c rehearsed redpoint?) corner system located off to
the right of the rappel route/"Mr. Ed." 2 100' pitches. First pitch- the inner corner- 10d small to medium gear. Second pitch is the inner of the two upper corners; crux pitch, though the crux difficulty does not apparently run the full length of the pitch. FA Dave Clay.
The Upper Outer Corner- 11a- 4 bolts and small to medium gear. FA Tom Addison
"Perfectly Frank" 10b It's on the left side of the
West Face. P1. 5.7 corner to triple cracks, 10b move to bolt belay.
p2. 5.8 hand crack in golden left-facing corner, 10a wide lieback
moves at top, bolt belay. P3. 5.4 diagonal crack, joining "Bermuda
Triangle" past belay to trees. FA Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 10/12/2002.
"Flatlander" 5.9+ "This short climb is located in the gully that is also the descent. Standing at the base of "Made in the Shade" turn around and look at the opposite wall. It is clearly the crack that stands out. Climb up the crack and work your way left twice. I call it 5.9 because that's a sandbagger for you! Hexes, nuts and 4 rigd stem cams." FA Dingus and Angus Summer 1991. [topo is a light box copy from an original on colored paper that Angus drew that wouldn't scan. - Munge]
Potter's Road, aka 5N09X, aka Road to Donnell's
Potter's Rock-
2nd Pitch 5.11- from ledge above Cut Corner follow incipient
dirty seam. Not recommended by FA party.
"Low Balls" 5.10R Climb the arete to the left of Cut
Corner. Offset Aliens, Ball Nutz and HB Offset brass nuts are strongly
recommended FA Brutus of Wyde, Nurse Ratchett.
Post Law
School Wall- "No Exfoliation Without Representation" 5.8
* 6 bolts 120feet ! Belay on anchors for "Hung Jury" pg.
81. The route starts left of small tree left of tree in topo on pg 81.
The route trends right and up through scoops (3 bolts), then cuts back
left following the natural weaknesses, and up and right to join "Hung
Jury" (3 bolts).
FA Rob Behrens and Jeff Lane 5/11/02
So-So Slab- 5.9 TR to the right of "The Bar
Exam." More or less straight up through cleaner area of rock. Possibly
FA was by Rob Behrens the year after the The Bar Exam FA went in.
Atlantis Wall- Sirens of the Stanislaus (V, 5.10
C2) [Topo]
“Welcome All”- 5.11b/c 10 bolts. Located just
right of “Welcome Mat” and left of “Keeblers
Revenge.” Hooks for top anchors. FA John Robinson 3/05.
"Cowboy Up" 5.8? 5.9? 3 bolts, shares anchor with
"Side Saddle" on Ort Wall. Old TR problem. FA Matt
Schlueter and Daniel Forbes 5/04
"Grey Matter" 10b (? # of bolts) 100' to right of
"Chicken Ranch Bingo" and to the right of big chimney
by Welcome Wall. FA Howard Painter.
Eastern Front
A series of nice additions to the Grotto
area. Cracks to some bolt protected moves. See Topo.
[Topo Available]
Hard Times at the Winkin' Lantern- 11b- bolts and single green alien. Apparently stout face moves lead to thin crack and then it eases in difficulty past the roof to more bolts. (project or #8 listed in the topo)
D.C. Angel Cat- 10b- bolts. stemming, and jug for the roof. Located further left.
Far Side- (Described as approached from the trail)
Far Side- Right
"Swine and Cheese" 10d* # bolts? To the right
of "Where Bovines Dare." A good line with two
cruxes and a weird position for the finishing anchor move.
Some poison oak below anchor.
"Rub its Belly" 10d* 8 bolt line between "Boneless
Chicken" and "Where Bovines Dare." The name
is derived from a mishap with a rattlesnake, fortunately
no one was hurt.
"Depends" 5.8, 60ft. 5 bolt line two routes
to the right of Senior Citizen, or as approached from the
trail the first bolted line after the Waterfall route. Large
'spike' on lower right of topo on pg. 31 was trundled as
too loose. "Depends" climbs the position of where
the tower was.
variant 5.10 TR straight up from second bolt, bulging crack. pro to 1" if leading??? FRA Lance?
"Assisted Living" 5.9* Bolted line. Of the two
routes to the right of Senior Citizen, this is the left
one, the other is "Depends." That is to say, it
is the 2nd bolted line after the Waterfall route. The 3rd,
4th and 5th bolted lines are Senior Citizen, Senior Project,
and Luc Skywalker respectively.
"Fat Don't Fly"** 10b Six bolt line with light
brown hangers. This is the 6th bolted line on the wall.
The route trends right around the roof and then back left
over the top of it and goes into a couple more bolts trending
back right again to end on anchors to the left. A good line
with a nice pull around the roof.
"Senior Moment" 5.10(a) or (b)* Six bolt line
with first five hangers painted brown. Some tricky moves
to the same anchors as "Fat Don't Fly."
"Aztec" 5.10a *
"Half Wit" 5.9 * Bolted line between project "F"
on pg. 30 and the left side of Senior Wall (Aztec) It is a few
hundred feet right of "F" and a hundred or so feet
left of Senior Wall. To approach from Senior Wall, go back out
and around the bushes and head to the left side of the wall.
There is something of a use trail.
Two Mile Bar - "The not so super, mossy, dirty, bird shity, poison oaky crack of the sonora pass" 5.10 hellish 45 min approach? 25' tall.
The Flatiron - private property - good chance of getting your car hood axed. FA Dingus 93-94, but evidence of climbing found aka pins. 2 routes. star dryvs. mentioned for historical purposes only.
Gateway Rocks - Snake Crack 5.9 formation west of 108/120 junction. "I believe we either ran into a snake or thought we would, hence the name." FA Stu Pollock and Marty Garrison [i think this is on private property now- mentioned for historical purposes only- Munge]
If you need a guidebook to Table mtn...
Mid-HwyAreas
Quickie Mart
(odometer reading is off in guidebook, use 1.3)
Big Gulp- 5.8 crack to flare that isn't as bad as it looks, but it is as dirty, big finish moves. The prominent crack on the left side of the formation. 2 bolt anchor. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland July 16, 2005.
The Ramp- 5.8* 2 bolts to a hand crack thru a roof. 2 bolt anchor. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 7, 2005.
Unknown Toprope- 5.10* 2 bolt anchor. On the right side of the main formation.
Kiddie Corral - Directly across the highway from the Quickie Mart is a large dirt pull out. Drive around a dirt hill to a camp site. From the camp site walk down the gully a few hundred feet. On the right will be seen a low angle slab. descend off left easy 5th class or walk back and around to a gully on the right. Bring long
slings to tie off tree or rock 'pommel' for anchors.
Girl Howdy: 5.6 2 bolts- Start in the easy flakes and cracks
left of Rodeo, then slabs to the top, belaying from the Pommel. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
Rodeo: 5.8. 3 bolts, located in the middle of the slab. Traverses
in from the right to interesting slab crux. (variant "Rodeo
Sex"- direct is hard 10) FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
My Little Pony: 5.4- 3-bolt slab. Near the right hand edge
of the slab. FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
Pony Espresso: 5.8. Pro: stoppers to a large camalot. Some
fun OW is encountered. Located up and right from the main Kiddie
Corral slab is this short dihedral.FA Bruce Bindner Em Holland June 11? or 12? 2005.
The Egg
Hard Ass Dike - 5.12b "it goes out a little undercling for a bit and then gets really sustained for about 25-30 feet. think Fruity Pebbles only steeper. rediculas. I would bolt it but there is no way I could imagine taking a hand off to clip." FTR Dean Fleming and Dave Yerian 2007.
Peckerhead Formation - Just left of the Egg is a formation with a thin 5.9 flake that starts off in 15' of moss. FRA Juice? gear? length? From the ledge the flake is good. unknown FL.
The Yolk Formation - on the short formation above and behind the egg has a south west facing face with two chimneys on the upper right quadrant of the formatio
Chimney Ramp - boulder up the blocs right side then walk/climb to a right trending ramp to the right most of two chimneys. 5.3
Jeremy TR'd this one- rating?- from same shared start as the Ramp, go straight up on a single good knob and mantle to step off the ramp. finish straight up.
Munge TR'd this one- rating 5.8? from same area, climb just left of seam going straight up to two diorite knobs. This is the fall line for the rope when TR'ing off of the gear placements above- to help locate the specific line.
Slittle Sleam- really nice seam- 5.8? slightly right trending. finish on the central block. I cheat by using the chimney move on the right, but could easily work out a hard variation going straight up.
Constrenous- continous and strenuous. 5.10. TR. slab/friction slab. tiny knobs. We added anchor bolts to the top of these two lines, since there was only a single tied 'thread' to use otherwise.
FAs unknown - seems like these would be an obvious alternative to drop a rope on when in the Egg area, so like many routes in the area, only reporting it as FRA until otherwise corrected. Jeremy and Munge. 6/11/07.
Legoland
A Glitch in the Matrix 5.9 R: * Located at Legoland to the right of Trinity and Morpheus
starts. First part goes through knobs and protects with small wires
and micro cams. 5.6 ish. It goes more or less straight up over the
small roof, through more knobs. It joins the ramp on Morpheus. An
alternate belay should be set here for reduced drag. Take the obvious
left slanting crack. A flared #3.5 camalot works well right after
this crux. 5.9. Before the crack seems to join Trinity, go up and
right onto an unprotected slab 5.7 R (could use a bolt here). Step
right and move up underneath the wide crack. The crack protects
with a #4 camalot and a #1 camalot. 5.6 A fun and challenging route. FA Rob Behrens David Sawaya pre 2001?
Burst Rock Areas
Moustrap Right
Escape Route 5.7* Corner to jugs. FA Dean Fleming/Andrea Batt 60ft tall
20/20 5.9** left trending fun o/w to right leaning, dead vertical hand crack. FA Dean Fleming/Andrea Batt 65ft tall
The Vision 5.10c*** right trending thin seam to crack switch, left leaning fingercrack to horazontal crack left, back up right trending perfect hands of 20/20 finish. FA Dean Fleming/Andrea Batt 70ft of climbing.
11b ** top rope strait up seam of The Vision. Gear Anchor. FTRA Dean Fleming
Beer Goggles 5.8 Left leaning wide crack. dirty. FA Dean Fleming/Andrea Batt. 50ft.
Green Lichen Slabs
The Wedding Gift 5.10a ** crack to bolts on far left side main lower wall. FRA, Aarron Morhead/Dean Fleming/Andrea Batt 75ft tall
Resistance is Futile 5.11a *** 11 bolts up black, pocketed waterstreak. center man lower wall FRA Dean Fleming/Aarron Morhead. 70m rope mandatory for lower off. Walk off main ledge is possible.
Wherever I May Roam 5.9+ R 3 pitches.no bolts. GU OS 250-300' tall. Dean Fleming, Dan Forbes FA 9/8/07
Facing Away Cliff
50'
Jemstone 5.9 * perfect hand to finger splitter on the far right end. GU OS Dean Fleming, Dan Forbes FA 9/8/07
Jewel of Denile 5.8 * finger crack to roof/arete. GU OS Dean Fleming, Dan Forbes FA 9/8/07
East Face (right side)-
“Thrust and Throb” 10c? FA- Greg, Matt and Joel.
5.9 hand crack to 10a stemming for the first pitch. Pitch 2
is an overhanging hand crack at 10c.
“Up and Over” 10d? FA- Joel and Brad 8/20/05.
5.8 corner to a thin traverse.
Baffin Island- 10b TR to the left of "Two
Fine Attributes" and right of "The Cutting Edge."
Use anchor on "Two Fine Attributes."
North Face- "Up to your elbows" 10a.
Joins Claymation anchors via horizontal traversing fist crack.
Slab- Located above the far right side of Funhouse. Or on your left as you walk to the top of Fun House from Burst
Rock trail...you would be above it.
"No-Bolt Insurance" 5.7/5.8 X or TR. Slab. This
short clean low angle slab is above and behind the Fun House
as you face the cliffs (on the left as you approach the cliffs).
Drop down the right side of the cliff from the top. At the base,
from the middle of the face go up on knobs and edges trending
right to a horizontal seam. TR is possible with 30' of sling
off boulder. FA Rob Behrens solo
Fun House
"Sneaker Pimps" 5.8 ** Pro to 4" The corner to
the right of "Slap Stick" and "Gravitron." Two
cruxes. Everything is on. Lowe Tri Cams or hexes for pods work best.
I think a #9 hex would work well. A #8 worked. FA Rob Behrens and
Brad Young July 30, 2002
Green Acres
"Heady on Disorder" 5.10a or b TR.The arete to the
right of "Hog Trough" climbing the left side. possibly
done before 9/19/03 by Jim Lundeen, et. al.
"Steve and Emma corner" 5.4 The short low angle right
facing corner to the right of "Hog Trough" sort of
as drawn on pg. 51. Variant climb just the right side of the
arete. possibly done before 9/19/03, otherwise Steve and Emma.
Sugar Honey Iced Tea 5.10+ (TR) "A" in the photo topo.
You Guys Decide 5.6* FA Chris Williams Sept. 7-8 2001. Spread Eagle crack variation at left (5.6) Tom Slater and Tod Tomlinson Pro to 4 "B" in the photo topo.
Iron Eagle 5.7** Pro to #3 camalot (+ yellow and orange metolius). FA Tom
Slater and Tod Tomlinson, 9/2006. Not shown in the topo. Located to the right of You Guys Decide/Green Dihedral, climb the rounded arete outside of the dihedral. It is its own line, you don't touch the dihedral crack (all face moves), instead use three horizontal cracks for gear (3rd one kind of a sporty run) Anchor off of blocks 15' back and to the right. Pro to #3 camalot. "C" in the photo topo.
Duct Tape Doggy 5.9 *** Pro to #2 camalot. FTR Jeremy Schroeder Sept. 7-8 2001. Straight in hand jams to horizontal ledges. This is a separate formation from Roche and Highest Edge. Anchor is tree 20 feet back. FLA Tom Slater and Tod Tomlinson, 9/2006
Provolone 10c TR- face 6-8' right of Duct Tape Doggies. FTRA Jeremy Schroeder Sept. 7-8 2001
"beautiful (but dirty, they all were) 5.10a finger jam/ lie back" FTRA Jeremy Schroeder Sept. 7-8 2001
Upper Roches
Matrix- Left of Lani's Leap FA Stacy Schroeder and Jim
McConachie 9/14/03
Easy Finish Corner- Right of Lani's Leap. FA Dave Hardin
and Royal Robbins 9/13/03
Genesis- TR variations
Face between Webelo Crack and Cub Scout crack. TR. 5.9/10a?
Crux at top. Propose name "Bill told us (they climbed
it last year)."
Frosty fingers TR-follows a diagonal crack to near the
edge of the face and then goes straight up. FA Dave Hardin
and Royal Robbins 9/13/03
Dipsy Doodle TR-goes up the outside corner on the right
Second Quarry, Bear's Lair and Lost World
Russian Wall Area- Thx to George and Vitaly for sharing
the below info! Developers: George Rekouts and Vitaly Birukov during ~2005 season. Disclaimer: info below could be potentially wrong and/or incomplete.
Climb at your own risk. And keep in mind this is a brand new
spot so be ready for plenty of dirt.
Approach is very short, 5-7 min of flat hiking. Drive all way down to the end on 5n06 just as you would do for the Lost World, park. Go over the road blocking berm and continue on a fire road for about a minute till the large fallen tree across the road. Turn left at that point and get on a flat rock slab, continue roughly at 90 degrees to the road (there should be cairns marking the trail). At the other and of the slab pick up a faint trail (starts on a big fallen tree and later marked by the tree branches) that continues skirting the base of the rock band. You will see a huge roof, go another minute or so past it.
Or follow Sonora Pass Climbing book directions to Second Quarry
- Prime Rib route and then
descend straight down and a bit to the left (about 50 yards).
Search for the anchors at the top of the wall. Rappel down or follow a faint trail farther left (west) to descend
to the base. Wall is north facing and gets some sun after 2pm (still plenty
of shade from the trees). Almost all routes could be easily top-roped with 60m rope, look for most east top rappel anchor to reach two east mid-face
anchors.
OR instead of going uphill on the normal 2nd quarry approach,
contour and go left downhill skirting the scraggly
looking crags on your left. -Rob]
a) Bear
Trap, 5.10 c/d, 75'
Squeeze chimney to arête to the anchors, 8 bolts.
b) Sick
Squirrel, 5.11a, 75'
Right facing dihedral and face and then transition to the left
onto a knobby face to the anchors, 9 bolts
c) Animal Clinic, 5.10d, 70'
Start with the dihedral as above, continue up the knobby face
and then traverse right on the top knobs and finish on the crack,
8 bolts
d) Lost Colibri, 5.11c, 70'
Start with the dihedral and traverse right by the 3-rd bolt
on the dike to reach start of the vertical tips/finger crack
to the anchor, 7 bolts, optional pro 1.5-3"
e) Woodpecker Chick, 5.10c, 70'
Follow obvious waving crack to the anchors, pro .5-4"
f) Senior Frog, 5.8, 90'
Start in the corner left of BBB and then follow natural line/crack
to the top, pro .5-2.5"
g) Big Brown Bat, 10b, 85'
Vertical dike in the middle of the face, traverse left by the
third bolt to the flake and finish with face and horizontal
cracks to the top, 8 bolts
h) Ants in the House, 11c/d, 80'
Right side of the face, start with the flake then traverse right
on the knobs and follow arête and knobs to the top, don't
miss additional holds around arête. 8 bolts
b) Fourth of July, 5.9+, 75'
Balancy start to a flake to fun knobs and horizontal cracks
to the anchors below roof, pro 0.5-3" and three bolts
c) Born on the Fourth of July, 5.11a, 75'
Start with the obvious slightly overhanging flake, follow arête
above and then short traverse left to the anchors, pro .75-3"
and 4 bolts
d) Fire
Permit, 5.11c, 90'
Crack in the middle of the face to a bulge to the delicate face
and another bulge, pro 1-2" and 5 bolts
e) No
Fireworks, 5.10d, 85'
Arête and small knobs on the right facing wall to the
ledge and flake and arête to the anchors, 6 bolts, optional
1-2"
g) Deep Impact,
5.11a/b, 75'
Thin start to a dramatic thin hands crack thru the 8' roof and
easy finish to the anchors, pro 0.5-3" and 1 bolt
"Etude a la Hoe" 5.10a [Topo
Available] 150' Two bolts to protect the entry, then pro to 9
inches. Walk off the top. Location: about 75' right of the anchor
chains of Magical Pigs is a big block perched on a pedestal. The route
starts just right of the block.
"HorseRadish" (?) 3 bolts and pro to 10" Starts on
top of "Prime Rib" and traverses right to wide crack. Rap
down over "Liquid Chicken" from 2 bolt anchor at the top
of the wide crack.
"Power Within"*** 5.11d Starts where fixed copperhead
is indicated on page 94, right of "Liquid Chicken." Exposed
climbing up high. Pro to 2" and six bolts. Pass the bolt to the
left/downward facing flare to arete to its own 2 bolt anchor.
"If not for Noel" 5.11a*(*?) Arete left of "Sole
Food," joins same at its sixth bolt.
Lost World- Much new route activity.
Ask around if you climb there regularly. Currently word of mouth updates.
Look for revised topos in a 2nd edition guidebook.
Bear's Lair:
Allen's Crack??? 10b- Climb the crack
just to the left (4 ft) of
the 1st pitch of Dead and Buried. The crux is a nice commiting lie
back.
Takes good pro. Put up and cleaned by Allen Currano. There are chains at
the top and it is a 125 foot rappel." Two more have lead it
that I'm aware of (8/03), they stayed left of the crack using finger
jams, etc. and are seeing it come in at 10b. Try it and see how
it goes, then post up.
Located west of the Kennedy Meadows campground turn off .5 miles. It is the large granite formation behind the High Sierra Institute historic Baker Station on the north isde of the highway.
High Life * 5.10+/A0
Rainy Day Crack 5.8+
Nick's Shimmy 5.7
Chubby Milf 5.8
Project #9??
Solar Vixen Area
Solar Vixen 5.10a/b ** 4 bolts set of Aliens (Gr, Yellow, Red) to #2 Camelot (you can see it in the thesephotos- approach by traversing ridge West from first established scenic overlook above Kennedy Meadows Resort. Or climb Diamond Cutter Buttress up and over) 'Climb a prominent arch surmount the tiny roof (1st crux) and continue up the slab following the bolt line. The next crux is just above the 3rd bolt - traversing right. The route is very similar to Tuolomne Meadow knob climbs. The Vixen is a little run out because it was stance bolted. All moves are solid between each bolt." FFA Tim Tuomey, Paul and Eva 7/29 or 30/2006. Style: GU
Right Wing Odyssey 5.8** Chimney. Pro small to #3. FFA Tim Tuomey, Nick S., Paul H.and Bob
Diamond Cutter Direct (aka The Groove) 5.9+/5.10- Chimney. Pro small to #3. FFA Tim Tuomey, Nick S., Paul H.and Bob Kuykendall.
Chipmunk Flatand further up the highway It should be noted that Dale Keyser use to teach climbing up this way and many routes may have been first done by him and friends.
Fortress in the Sky [Topo
Available] near Pink Cliffs-
see topo. FAs by Tim Tuomey.
Firefight in Khafji 5.10
Battle at Medina Ridge 10a/b
Chipmunk Rodeo 10b
Alvin 5.10
Theodore 5.10
Shoemaker Levy 9 10b OW
Recon indoctrination 11b
Darkness at the Break of Noon 10a
Deadman's Creek Area
Deadman's Buttress Gully 4th class- right hand gully. FA unknown
Deadman's Buttress approach area
Kiddie Crack 5.5 Short RFC. FRA Jeff Lane Solo 9/10/2006
Hop skip and a jam 5.4 FRA Jeff Lane Solo 9/10/2006
Funksters Cliff
Located on the North side of the hwy just before First Buttress if travelling East. The cleanest 40' tall, low-angle slab
nearest the road above the turn-out by the turn.
The Funksters Come to Town 5.5 The center line on this roadside cliff. 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. scramble down right side 4th class to descend. no rings. FRLA 7/6/2008 GU rope solo. Rob Behrens
Sleepy Cheez 5.6 left side TR. FTR? FRTR 7/6/08
Bloody Noses 5.6 right side TR. start down below belay ledge to add some mileage. FTR? FRTR 7/6/08
Hiker Cliff Located up and right of Funksters by several hundred feet. It is a low angle slab similar to Funksters cliff, cut across it by several horizontal cracks. Solo'd a line on the right side of the main face. 5.4 7/9/2008. Rob Behrens
If we were only as good as we thought we were A3+
(C3+?) No pins or bolts used on FA. "The climb is located about
the middle of the cliffs on a 3 tier wall. It looks like giant stair
steps. It follows a very thin non connected crack system for about 2/3 of the way up. The top 1/3
is all hooks with one #1 BD micro stopper that I shaved down with
a file. The top anchor is a tree that looks like its days are numbered."
FA Sgt Brandon Shofner. July 2002. [believed to be on first buttress but haven't heard from Sgt. Shofner since then.]
Chockstone Chimney "Dale Kaiser told me he and his son climbed it in the early 70's named the climb Chockstone Chimney 5.9 if I remember correctly but that was 25 years ago so take it for what it is worth. Jeff"
Eye of the Needle (5.10+)
5 pitches. FA Steve Shields, Mei Xi and Allen Currano May 30-31, 2004- located 100' down the gully from "What Is". Full trip report and pics on Mei's site.
Pitch 1: 5.6 very loose!!!
Pitch 2: starts with a diagonal crack and easier terrain to a roof which involvs lie-backing and high stepping. Above that fairly blank with a very thin and shallow crack, about 30 feet long, running up. RP's to protect this section. Steve thought this pitch deserves at least a 5.10+.
Pitch 3: 100 feet of 4th class to a vertical wall with a crack system shooting straight up.
Pitch 4: The crack is again thin on this pitch, and also has a roof. 195 ft pitch with a 5.10+ rating.
Pitch 5: Short pitch. Taking the left corner that starts with a diagonal hand crack and leads into a wide but protectable chimney is 5.8 and the original line of ascent. There is one in the middle that is even wider with a huge drop right at the base. Then one on the right side with the first 25 feet of face climbing without a crack and then a thin crack that leads to the top. Steve top roped the thin crack to the right and considered it fit the character of the whole climb better. It just needs a bolt to protect the first 25 feet.
Township Rebellion Area
? ? Follow right side of detached block. Then ramp up and right. FRA? 6/1/08 Miwok and Strider
Juniper LedgesArea
Coup de Etat 5.11a?, 85'. Gear to 1.75", two each cams to .6", medium nuts. FA Jerry Dodrill 11/08/07. FTR Jerry Dodrill 3 months prior.
Beta: From the top of Township Rebellion, take the path up and slightly right, past a big juniper, to the base of another formation. You'll see the base platform area below beautiful off-vertical lieback flakes which turn into a tips crack. When they run out, pull over the bulge on knobs and dance up a slab, clipping two bolts. Save a blue alien. You'll find rap/lower chains on the big ledge. A 30' .10a splitter crack at the left edge of the ledge takes you to the top, where you can rap back to the chains/ledge from the fat branch of a huge juniper. One rope is all you need.
Copy Cat 10a?* TR right of "Sincerest Form of Flattery" on the big knobs by the tree. go up til last bolt on Sincerest, then left under bolt, finish on SFOF. Fun. FRTR- Rob Behrens 6/1/08
Romeo Victor 5.8+* FRA Chuck Newman and Jerry Dodrill Located on the tier directly above Spinal Tap and leans to the left at the top. Gear: 1"-4", multiple 3" pieces, 50' Sept 08.
For Whom the Bell Tolls 5.10d** 100'. Gear to 3.5" Double set of cams, triples in 1-2.5" sizes. FRA: Jerry Dodrill and Chuck Newman, Sept. 08. There is a phantom pin in a crack on the mid height ledge on the line to the right of this one, so it is possible but unknown if this route (FWTBT) has been climbed before. Anyone know anything?
Double Crack Slab
- clean featured moderate climbing located on the south side of the valley. Cross the log and go up and left. The cliff has a distinct volcanic instrusion on right side (Intrusive Vulcan).
What does Lance not see? 5.8
Strike out 5.8
Pretty short 5.7
Dun Beefer 5.4
Done Before 5.4
Light Beer with Lime 5.5**
A new administration 5.4*
Intrusive Vulcan 5.3*
Seasons End Crag - The first crag you hit after crossing the log and heading up. Black streaks in the middle that run with water early in the season ID the crag. There are two sets of anchors on top of the crag, only the set on the right have rings. But a walk off to the east is not impossible. Left to right:
Red Red Wide 5.4 * FRA Rob Behrens solo 9/14/2008 (nice face, OW if you want)
Sassy Potasi 5.7/5.8? * TR FRA Rob Behrens 9/14/2008 (nice knobs, start at the very left. this and the following routes are compressed together in a small area and all could be blended to fashion a line of your own choosing)
Black Lichen Love 5.10ish TR FRA Rob Behrens 9/14/2008 (not so great a line, but an independent TR can be made if one is careful)
George's straight up version (of the 5 Try TR, that he did onsight) 5.10c/d? TR FRA George Rekouts (correct here if I'm wrong please) (looked way harder than 5 Try TR, stays left of seam near the top)
5 Try Toprope 5.10c? * TR FRA Rob Behrens 9/14/2008 (some black lichen still on the top, crimpy knobs yield to edges yield to a hold yield to a flat jug. longer line than it looks from the ground. it goes thru the two slanting seams en route to the top part of the face)
Season's End 5.6 * TR FRA Rob Behrens TR and dusted off, then solo 9/14/2008 (runs with water part of the year, hence the black streaks. August or September is often dry.)
Walking on Top 5.8? * TR FRA Rob Behrens 9/14/2008 (not just a name, also instructions)
Thin Cracks Slab
- located up and right from Seasons End with a bit of green lichen tinge color to ID it.
"Diamond's Edge" located on the left arete from
"One fine day." (OFD) Greg Barnes, et.al.mid to late
90s
"OFD variant"? TR Variant straight up from the 6th
bolt or so on OFD. Greg Barnes, et.al.mid to late 90s
"Thinner" TR variant to OFD, straight up from 3rd
bolt on OFD. Named so since the edges kept getting thinner.
Greg Barnes, et.al. mid to late 90s
"Hooey" TR 10+ A direct variation on "Let the
Guilty Hang" that goes straight up from the start, fun
climbing but short. Greg Barnes, et.al. mid to late 90s
"Violence inherent in the system" TR 10b/c? Start
right of "You insolent peasant" and go up to small
bulge, going basically up. It's hard not to use a few holds
on "You insolent peasant" but you soon cross that
route in any event and go straight up staying just right of
the seam and only crossing it at the top where you join the
last 4-5' of "One Fine Day." The crux is in the last
20' before joining "One Fine Day." Greg Barnes, et.
al. probably, otherwise Rob Behrens, Jeff Lane, 9/22/02.
Homeland Security- 5.7 Is it too small
and to hollow to provide security? left facing corner lieback
capped by a tree. Exit left under tree. Wide gear for pro.
Approach pitch for "Pogo Stick." FA 6/14/03? Jeff
Lane, Rob Behrens likely done before, per the FA team
Pogo Stick- 5.6* Just hop on up. The
right facing corner, left of the slab that is capped by
the giant roof. At the top exit via face on left or dirty
wide crack on right. Anchor on tree with slings. Rap here
or use 2 bolt anchor rap on "Grey Roof Indirect."
FA 6/14/03? Rob Behrens, Jeff Lane, likely done before.
Fudgestripe TR, 10c Variant to "Grey
Roof Indirect." start next to corner and follow faint
black streak to 2nd horn. Join "Grey Roof Indirect"
but at the top use the arete on the left. Shares same anchor.
FTR Jeff Lane 6/14/03
Grey Roof Direct- TR 5.10d? 11a?* Start
just left of shallow dihedral and right of Fudgestripe.
Go more or less up to meet first horn, stand up onto slab,
up positive holds on slab under giant roof. Turn roof on
left where slab meets roof, with long reach. 2 bolt anchor/rap.
FTR Rob Behrens 6/14/03
Grey Roof InDirect 5.7* Start at small
pine going up flakes to the shallow dihedral, step right
into the bottom of the big "Right Corner" but
clip two bolts going up the face on easy ground. At a big
ledge a sm/md nut and a blue TCU can be used to protect
some more moderate moves to another bolt out left. Small
nuts and small cams protect the move exiting left. (a direct
finish is in the works)
Grey Roof- Right corner- unknown- fixed
friend up high under roof with old tattered sling
Descend these routes by rap, then scramble over to
top of main Hummingbird Buttress. 1 60 m will get you
down first rap from atop "Pogo Stick", after
scramble across, two raps on a single 60m rope from
atop Hummingbird Buttress proper gets to the base.
Penstemmon
Pillar, 10a/b FA Dingus Milktoast, Tom Oatman, sport route,
8 bolts to the chains, note: 2nd clip is a grounder if you screw
up. Last moves to the bolt are like 4th class, not hard at all.
Lactation
Corner 5.7 FA Brutus of Wyde, Dingus Milktoast, 9/27/03, so
named for a torn shirt and some bare
breasted action., pro to 4 camelot, optional 4.5 camelot.
Mostly a wide crack.
Midas
5.10 FADingus Milktoast,
Brutus of Wyde 10/26/03, sport route, 9 bolts to chains, small
cam and a nut to protect opening moves to 1st bolt. Quality, continuous
climbing, first move to last. Possible to rap from chains with
one 50m rope.
Wagon
Train, FA
Brutus of Wyde, trad, 5.9 pro to 12 inches (seriously, nothing
smaller than 6 inches used on FA). Take some smaller pro for the
belay.
Tag
Team Down the same wall from "Stu-pendous"
(aka Marty and Stu) is a route called Tag
Team, 10a. It's at the bottom of the Stupendous wall (now
called Forefathers' Wall) and would be the first longer crack
route encountered going up the gully. It starts out in a short
corner at the right bottom of a clean smooth face broken by a
right to left rising horizontal crack with a very small bush growing
from it midwall. Climb the corner, traverse out onto the face
past the bush to another crack, straight up to the top from there.
Pro - standard rack to #4 camelot. There are a couple of OW moves
higher up that *might* warrant a #4.5, but FA party never used
one (climbed several times). There is one bolt below the OW to
protect the entry moves into the wide country. It's a 5/16 button
head split shaft placed on the lead, circa 93 or so. Chain anchor. Tom Oatman
and Dingus Milktoast.
Tag
Team Direct has also been done, led by Tom Oatman. "10c
is what he called it I think, and added that he'd never do it
that way again. The first bit is somewhat decomposed and difficult
to protect."
Pin
Route Between Tag Team and Stupendous is another route. A
fixed pin indicates the route was put in pre- 90s. Goes up a hard
but indistinct corner, pulls a minor roof (that's where the pin
was), reaches a huge flake that booms, traverse left around corner,
set belay. P2 goes up moderate 5.9 crack to top. Name unknown.FA
unknown, fixed Lost Arrow at crux, 10d, 2 pitches, trad.
Coyote Crack 5.9+, perhaps 10a. Hybrid in that two rappel placed
bolts protect the face moves to gain the crack. Located right of Stupendous. FA Angus and Dingus
A Four Dollar Hammer (purchased at the Strawberry store) 5.9 sport, 100' bolted face / knobs, good line, 'easiest' on Forefathers. Upper end of the wall, to the left of Stupendous. FA 7/18/2009 Dingus Milktoast and Angus Carbide?
Run Like Hell Area
Swift Silent and Deadly 10a TR - TR the line right of "Run Like Hell" staying independent from it to the top. The last move is likely harder than 10a, but since it has a jacked up pendo if you use the RLH anchor, I don't expect most will try that. The line is between the 'bad bolt' and RLH. TR'd this one clean 6/1/08, maybe before but don't remember if so. Likely done before me, w/o the jacked up pendo finish. RB.
Deadman's Curves Area
Fresh Cut Block
area
Crack is for kids 5.3 * Layback to ledge then to the tree. Scramble off left. FRA Rob Behrens 8/6/05, but obvious fracture, probably done before.
Easy Street 5.5 on the face left of the below route. follows left facing seam. FRA Evan Rosenberg, et. al. 8/12/05?
Dirty but unique 5.5? grab both sides of the flake that is probably just barely nestled into the big corner FRA Evan Rosenberg, Rob Behrens 8/6/05.
Fresh 5.11b(?) * 4 bolts and some medium stoppers. Some scruff but mostly stabilized. FA Rob Behrens 6/25/06. (style = TD) The main line for this area located on the square cut block with whiteish coloring.
Busko's wild ride 10b balancey moves and joins the below 5.7 at 3/4 height. FTR Rob Behrens
Cool Mantle 5.7 pro to 1"
FRA Rob Behrens, Evan Rosenburg 8/6/05.
Gear for anchors on the last 3 climbs above need 20' of sling, 1 ea #1camalot, 2 ea .75 camalots, and small to medium aliens.
North side of hwy- above Fresh Cut Block.
Short N Stout 5.10c 25' off fingers. Pro: Small cams & a #2 CAMALOT [FRA Noots? Chris? Uber? 9/06]
Short N' Simple 5.5 Bomber jams between the munge 25'. [FRA Noots? Chris? Uber? 9/06]
The Fun Area-
Picture Topo
letters line up to
topo
"A" Put Put Mini-Golfer's route 5.7* 3 bolts on arete. ~40' Short, but quality knobs. FA Rob Behrens, Evan Rosenberg 7/1/06. (GU)
Unseen Corner 5.5 ~40' Pro to 3 camalot. Right facing dihedral with knobs on face to right. A bit mossy in spots, but nothing a hundred ascents won't eventually clean up. FRA Chris Iezzoni, Jeff Lane -weekend of 6/24/06- another obvious corner and likely done before.
"B" Alligator Lizard route 5.9 ' ~45' TR rock up, then knobs, to small cracks above. Anchor from gear straight above or use tree anchor for below route.
"C" Everybody Stance 5.6 * ~50' 2 bolts and pro to #1 camalot. rock up on good knobs, follow two bolts to bottom of seam. stuff a piece in the right hand (.75 camalot) crack but continue straight up. FA Evan Rosenberg, Rob Behrens 7/2/06.
Predecessor Cracks Area
- Picture Topo
letters line up to topo
"A" Predecessor Crack left- 5.5* 30' short, solid fun hand crack. #3 camalots useful if anchoring right above corner. FRA Rob Behrens, Chris Iezzoni 6/24/06 Likely done before.
"B" Predecessor Crack right- 5.5 25' same start but go up right hand crack. FRA Chris Iezzoni, Rob Behrens 6/24/06. Likely done before.
"C" Bratton Down the Hatches- 5.10d? 35' TR crack to alcove to hidden jug to chicken wing move. TR it from tree that can be used to get down from Predecessor Cracks. FTR Rob Behrens 6/24/2006
"D" Easy fingers 5.4* pro to 3 camalot; ironic no? clean fingers lead to finishing moves on below spire. FRA Rob Behrens 7/1/2006, it wouldn't surprise me if this had been done before.
"E" Steeple Spire 5.5** 3 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor. 30' - use all knobs and left edge to top. variant- left edge off is 5.8. FRA Evan Rosenburg and Rob Behrens. FTR Patrick Bratton TR variant right side, starting on face just around corner, then join main face staying on right side is a few moves at around hard 5.10 (FTR E.R.). Backside- TR off of same anchor. Using ramp and edge, or not. Easy.
5.4 no pro. On separate formation to the right of above routes. 30' follow knobs on grainy face to easier ground above, staying right of a large perched block. Descend down chimney on left side of this small formation. FRA Rob Behrens 7/1/2006, probably done before as it's piss easy.
S Crack and Roadside Roof Area
Roadside Roof 5.8? pro to 2" Maybe easier if it cleans up some. 35'. corner and right trending roof. Just past Burly Dude on the East side of the Hwy facing the road. FRA- Chris Iezzoni and Rob Behrens 6/24/2006, but again likely done before as it is right next to the road and is a prominent but small roof.
East Bound Crags
More Surly, than Burly 5.10a TR. Face right of "Burly
Dude." (pg 13