Just a little word about the bouldering ratings on this site. We solicit input for sure, but we try to be conservative due to what I call the upward float of ratings from people with little or no experience with how the YDS has over time been applied and correlated to V ratings. Consequently, you may see a rating at V2 one day, but later it shows up as V1 once further consensus is gathered. It should be mentioned that people often mistakenly think that the YDS can't be translated to V system ratings. It can. Email me if you need evidence. Also, of course, as a principle, height of the problem, bad landings, or no spotters should not affect the difficulty rating. EVER. It should be noted I've adapted/borrowed Mick Ryan's style of using VB-,VB,VB+ to denote ratings 5.6, 5.7, 5.8 or otherwise sub 5.9. On occasion I will use X or OTD to denote bad landings or tall problems. This later adjectival grade may or may not be applied uniformily or at all. Watch yer behind.

 

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BOULDERING

     
 

 

  • The Marmot Boulders - located about 0.7 miles east of the boulder campsite that is listed in the guidebook - on the right side of ca108 with a steep creek on the right of them. They are just around the big corner slightly uphill from the parking for the mountain warfare boulder with a good turnout directly above them (essentially above the last hair pin turn)- a few miles before (west of) the roadside boulders and the st marys pass trailhead boulders. Marmot Boulder - Marmot Arete V3- next to the road

  • Other Side Traverse - downstream across the creek from Marmot Boulder is a granite slab that at least one easy solo has been done on. At the bottom left side of the formation is a low angle somewhat knobby clifflet that has had some traversing done on it.

  • Right at Deadman's Curves is a flat parking spot with a perfect view of the Golden Staircase, aka First Buttress. There is a nice hand crack here and some mundane problems.
  • "...start of 1973... Before that we had done some bouldering around the North Shore cabins and at the parking lot." Scuffy B

  • Towards the back of the lake (Pinecrest) and look across from Frankensteins, you'll see a small white boulder (as crow flies... 300 yards uphill from lake, south side of creek). There is a sweet finger crack going up it. You'll find a one bolt anchor. Very quality, but not worth the hike if you're only going to do that. More for an adventurer. FA Tom Slater 1989.
  • Rad hand crack in a boulder back by the creek inlet (in lake bed) that is only exposed when the lake is dry. 5.9 - sweet! Only 15' though, highball sort of problem. FRA Tom Slater
  • Dusty- lone boulder on the way to the top of Herring Creek Dome. Thin seam. Unknown history. Apparently a jump off descent.
  • Boulder Flat Campground- some interesting boulders in the campground. 21 miles east of Pinecrest. looks like mostly mantles.
  • Donnell Vista- down near the actual vantage point, head to the South West along a slight trail 200+ feet will be a couple cracks on your left, and a nice arete just beyond.
  • Knights Ferry [Several miles East of Oakdale, and West of Jamestown along the Stanislaus River on your way to 108 or the Valley.] Local ModeSTONians have bouldered or done short TRs here since at least the 80s. Full circuits can be had at a myriad of grades. New wave padding and effort could yield more.
    • Along the main trail, after the concrete bathroom on the left is a bulge, open corner and slabby face.
    • Further along on the right are some short cracks and broken faces.
      • One of which is really good with a layback like crack that's somewhat of a chunky splitter.
    • Drop down to the river from here on wood steps, on the right is a highball face.
    • Further along the trail are a couple more problems heading up canyon.
    • At low water levels more can be had.
  • Pump Rocks [Approach Map][1.5 miles past Mill Creek Campground. Turn out on left.]
    • Pump Rock- [topo available] 2x2 with clearance can make it to Pump. Or walk 100 yards. Gets good morning shade in the summer time, and stays light til late.
    • Lonely Boulder- Couple moderate problems on the E. side. stand start to some small edges.
    • Lounge Lizard Boulder- V0- high step to pinch and up. Variantion on this just to right, more balancey. Also, an arete on E. side starts out of manzanita, powerful start move. Not sure if the mantle has gone yet that is on the n. side. Lizards found sunning.
    • Memorial Day Boulder- [Topo Available] V0 to V4 Rising right to left traverse on the crack. SDS direct starts. Though bouldering has been happening here for a long while, re-discovered and worked and cleaned Memorial Day weekend by good friends and good times and good beer. For low clearance, drive down old asphalt and cut back right through gate and up, turning back left to go to Lounge Lizard and Memorial.
  • Chipmunk Flat...Granite boulders for "Campsite" listed in Guidebook (now closed to vehicle traffic) has some clean granite problems. Including a couple good arete problems.
    • Overhanging Arete V3? ** This is the main arete. There is a low start and a higher start.
    • "Boot Camp" V4 * campus start, over lip to direct sloper top out. Also possible to exit out right along the lip.
    • No Head Low - V0+ ** on north side sit start, top out is not as hard as it looks. Just a phrase I attached to this problem when a marine I know replied to my admonition to keep his head down. His response was an eloquent description of keeping his head held proud knowing he walked shoulder to shoulder with some brave men. unknown FA.
    • No Head Low Traverse - same start as above, but traverse out right along lip as far as you can go.
  • St. Mary's Pass trailhead... decomposing granite of varying quality. Of note is an arete that faces the road. Not a great place to climb, but the high-altitude meadow across the road is beautiful.
  • Roadside Boulder aka Road work boulder. Just West of the St. Mary's Pass Trailhead boulders is this lonesome cube shaped boulder right above the road on the N. Side. Decomposing and not very aesthetic, this boulder has had chalk on it occasionally for several years.
  • Switchback Boulders .04 miles east of Soda Creek- This bouldering spot is more of a clifflet rather than boulder. It's characterized by vertical seams and a steep V4, slightly dirty problem called "dyke dyno." Walk down to the boulders about 1-2 min. hike from the pullout next to the hwy. "dyke dyno" is down and right from the main parking area past the seams- look for the diagonal gold dyke running across the whole boulder.
  • Directly across from the Boulder Campsite is one decent boulder on the other side of the river, when the water levels are low, with a few problems.West on the highway from the Boulder Campsite and below Third Buttress are a series of boulders. Some are short, some have bad landings, but the granite is of good quality. Some boulders are strewn in and amongst the aspens and are hard to deal with. Page 133.
    • Of note are a couple problems in the vicinity of "Old Soldiers." There is a large boulder below and North of "Old Soldiers" called for lack of history on this area Mountain Warfare Boulder, and another shorter one with crimps called the Kitty Litter Boulder near the base of the main cliff going North into a few trees.
      • MW (mountain warfare) boulder- 20' tall. Its N and S sides have some great problems. On the N side is a V1* stand start on a flake. Or do the newly done SDS, called "Broken." V4 (FA Sean Ryan). A campus problem coming in from the left and a rising knob traverse from the right (as you face the N side). The S side has a few known problems a V0- arete on the left, a V0- face starting on a jug and moving into easier terrain above, and a overhang/alcove problem.
      • Kitty Litter (aka boot print) boulder- Just uphill slightly North and East a few yards from MW is a very small boulder with crisp edges. 2 Short problems, SDS when possible and a mini traverse. The base has a fine grain sand at the base.
  • Camporama [Granite with one good boulder and several decomposing granite boulders(scanned images-poor quality).][Located directly across the hwy from Quickie Mart.] Odd name, maybe we should change it since I made it up. And especially since this isn't a great place to camp. But some 5th wheel tourons alway manage to camp here with the ants, dust and sound of the highway right there.
  • Vulcanoes [Volcanic, steep and sharp edges][Topo available] Let me know if you want to check this out. I'll go with you. I need to get back out there again.
  • Stanage Edge (Tom and Royal boulders) [low angle OTD][Unknown if all these problems have been done, but likely since their namesakes have been climbing out in this area for quite some time. Clean rock. Includes a trippy traverse on a horizontal splitter. High ball slabs is the name of the game here. One SDS overhang problem that I know of.
  • Baffin Island[high sierra granite boulders located in the talus field. Bad landings. Slabby problems and aretes. Not much reported so far. If you send some problems, drop an email.] I have the beginnings of an overview topo done, but it may be awhile.

 

  • Legoland [untouched and dirty]
  • Pumpin Patch [boulders at base of Pumpin Patch have some limited quality potential][also boulders along the road around PP have some problems. A few have been done.
  • Road to Burst Rock [many boulders tucked in and around forest][potential]
  • Road to Herring Creek [one overhanging handcrack with some other boulders spread out along the road. One boulder on the way to the top of Pinecrest peak.]
  • Green Acres [Above the Fun House at Green Acres in the Burst Rock area are numerous boulder problems. Some fun easy diorite knobs. A bit of a crack problem. And some thin desperates. A lip traverse where the dead tree has now made this traverse a little shorter. Some short solos.
  • The Egg [boulders on ridgeline near "The Egg" have some potential]
  • Pinnacle Boulders [Just a few hundred yards West of the "Pinnacle" listed in the book pg. 89 is a large gully with a couple boulders interspersed in the Gully. On the hillside to the West, directly opposite from the entrance to the road into Legoland is a single good problem.]
  • The Labyrinth [pg.36] The rock is water-pressure quarried limestone and can be extremely slick or very sharp or nicely scooped with good friction. Some fun problems here. But it is located in the Columbia State Historic Park. Keep a low profile and be courteous to others. Best time to visit here is early am or late pm.
    • "Near Sonora, the bouldering along the Columbia Junior College nature trail deserves mention for the Triple Cracks problem (B1+), possibly the best single limestone problem in the country. Since Chris Falkenstein climbed it in the 1970s, the rock has gradually become steeper as it sinks into the ground. Get there soon before it gets any harder." John Sherman, Stone Crusade.
  • The Arboretum [Overview Topo Available and Welcome Wall][pg.36] The rock is water-pressure quarried limestone and can be extremely slick or very sharp or nicely scooped with good friction. Watch out for poison oak. It is everywhere.
    • Welcome Wall- Flat landings
    • Triple Cracks problem area- so-so landings
  • Herring Creek Dome Summit

Some of the early boulderers for these areas were Mark Carpenter, C. Harris, T. Oatman, Dimitri ?, Roland ?. More recently Brian Carkeet, Sean Ryan, Evan Rosenburg, Jeff Gilbert, Ryan Bontrager, Jeff Lane, Rob Behrens, Chris Summit and other names that you'll send to me...Please. Thanks.

Update- other developers at Columbia include Bob Finn, Hank Ward and Chris Falkenstein.

     
     
           
                     
 

J. Lane on a big cobblestone problem at RR.